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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
Author
Mayan and Libby attempting Nose speed record
gfdonc
28-Oct-2014
3:26:48 PM
FYI. Mayan Smith-Gobat and her climbing partner Libby are in Yosemite and plan to have a 'crack' at the women's speed record on the Nose, early morning tomorrow (being 28th California time).

http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-10272014

ajfclark
29-Oct-2014
7:58:34 AM
5 hours, 2 minutes:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/libby-sauter-and-mayan-smith-gobat-break-el-cap-speed-record
Cams
29-Oct-2014
10:53:37 AM
Awesome!

Surely Mayan has done enough for us to claim her as an Australian by now?

hangdog
29-Oct-2014
2:16:40 PM
2:36:45 The record . Just sayin'

Doug
29-Oct-2014
2:39:35 PM
On 29/10/2014 Cams wrote:
>
>Surely Mayan has done enough for us to claim her as an Australian by now?

The question is: would she want to be?
martym
29-Oct-2014
5:21:00 PM
On 29/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>2:36:45 The record . Just sayin'

How fast did you do it Pete?
dalai
29-Oct-2014
9:03:35 PM
On 29/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>2:36:45 The record . Just sayin'

On their first attempt? That time has been whittled down over the years will multiple attempts by the main protagonists...

hangdog
30-Oct-2014
8:21:41 AM

>On their first attempt? That time has been whittled down over the years
>will multiple attempts by the main protagonists...

So the apologists appear ! Ok so this record is famous because it is the fastest time by two woman on their first attempt. Everyone feel better now. Yes it is a fine achievement but do we only make gender the focus when it suits us or their sponsors. And no Marty i have never done it and i am unlikely to either. But if i had to pick a team to climb on my behalf it would the team that did it in 2:36:45.
Wendy
30-Oct-2014
8:28:32 AM
I can remember when people first started promoting the speed record, it was 8 hrs or so. Making a first attempt of 5 hrs something pretty bloody good. I'm sure with the same amount of repeat attempts, these girls would whittle it down similarly. But if they actually have better things to do with their time than repeat this over and over again, I would totally understand.

On the other side, can't we just recognise that it's a bloody impressive physical acheivement? Anyone on here able to climb 1km of 22 or so with some aid thrown in in 5 hrs?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30-Oct-2014
9:20:19 AM
On 30/10/2014 Wendy wrote:
>I can remember when people first started promoting the speed record, it
>was 8 hrs or so. Making a first attempt of 5 hrs something pretty bloody
>good. I'm sure with the same amount of repeat attempts, these girls would
>whittle it down similarly. But if they actually have better things to do
>with their time than repeat this over and over again, I would totally understand.
>
>On the other side, can't we just recognise that it's a bloody impressive
>physical acheivement? Anyone on here able to climb 1km of 22 or so with
>some aid thrown in in 5 hrs?

Very well done to them, as I note that for many simply gettting up it at all (by any means), is a bloody impressive achievement!

On the "I remember when" bit ...
~> Once upon a time, it was a fantastic achievement to get up it in a single less than 24 hr push...
I still think that event and Later on Lynn Hill's freeing of it are two of the greatest milestones climbing has seen in my lifetime, apart from its original ascent.

Doug
30-Oct-2014
9:24:31 AM
On 30/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>
>>On their first attempt?
> So the apologists appear ! Ok so this record is famous because it is
>the fastest time by two woman on their first attempt.

Hmm. I read the R&I article and, if it is correct reporting this wasn't actually their first attempt: "Though they had planned to take a “practice” run, the women climbed quickly and shaved over half an hour from their September 2013 record."

Whatever. Basically, it's just a bloody brilliant achievement and it's not as if they've had the combined experience of Hans Florine and Alex Honnold in either the general environment, that particular route or the whole speed climbing game.
martym
30-Oct-2014
2:23:35 PM
On 30/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>
>>On their first attempt? That time has been whittled down over the years
>>will multiple attempts by the main protagonists...
>
> So the apologists appear ! Ok so this record is famous because it is
>the fastest time by two woman on their first attempt. Everyone feel better
>now. Yes it is a fine achievement but do we only make gender the focus
>when it suits us or their sponsors. And no Marty i have never done it and
>i am unlikely to either. But if i had to pick a team to climb on my behalf
>it would the team that did it in 2:36:45.

It's a sad day when two old geezers are arguing over who should climb on their behalf...
gfdonc
30-Oct-2014
2:37:46 PM
It wasn't about the gender, it was about the fastest ascent by an Aussie. hehehe.
kieranl
30-Oct-2014
4:49:10 PM
On 30/10/2014 Doug wrote:
>On 30/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>>
>>>On their first attempt?
>> So the apologists appear ! Ok so this record is famous because it
>is
>>the fastest time by two woman on their first attempt.
>
>Hmm. I read the R&I article and, if it is correct reporting this wasn't
>actually their first attempt: "Though they had planned to take a “practice”
>run, the women climbed quickly and shaved over half an hour from their
>September 2013 record."
>
>Whatever. Basically, it's just a bloody brilliant achievement and it's
>not as if they've had the combined experience of Hans Florine and Alex
>Honnold in either the general environment, that particular route or the
>whole speed climbing game.

It is pretty amazing. They had also done a "leisurely" 9-10 hour ascent about a week prior (El Cap Report 22/10). Apparently Mayan had been ill and wasn't fully recovered. It's pretty hard to keep my jaw off the floor.
dalai
30-Oct-2014
5:25:12 PM
On 30/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>
> So the apologists appear !

No, just sick of seeing such a lame comment about what is an impressive achievement regardless of gender...
martym
30-Oct-2014
5:41:53 PM
On 30/10/2014 dalai wrote:
>On 30/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>>
>> So the apologists appear !
>
>No, just sick of seeing such a lame comment about what is an impressive
>achievement regardless of gender...

What's the Austalian (and NZ) speed record?
One Day Hero
30-Oct-2014
6:02:57 PM
On 30/10/2014 hangdog wrote:
>But if i had to pick a team to climb on my behalf
>it would the team that did it in 2:36:45.

Mayan is a badarse, whereas you're a fuching goose!

I'm not even that psyched about people speed climbing the nose for its own sake, but maybe have a think about the doors which are opened up to someone who has developed the skills to climb that fast over that sort of terrain.
climberman
30-Oct-2014
6:46:53 PM
On 30/10/2014 martym wrote:

>
>What's the Austalian (and NZ) speed record?

I think it was set over seven sleepless nights in Newtown in the 1990's.

ajfclark
30-Oct-2014
7:35:22 PM
According to their FB post, not their first attempt:

Congratulations to Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter on breaking the women’s speed record climbing The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. They climbed the route in 5 hours and 2 minutes, beating their previous record of 5 hours and 39 minutes. Amazing achievement, you rock!


https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.922092344487273.1073741934.204164662946715&type=1

I'm pretty sure I posted about their previous record on here somewhere...

ajfclark
30-Oct-2014
7:36:02 PM
I did: http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=113968&Replies=1

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