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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Bumblies reaching for the stars
jdb
26-Sep-2014
10:46:32 AM
Morning All,

I've got a couple of mates who are aspiring to tick 20 stars in a weekend at Arapiles in the 16-23 grade bracket. Clearly opting for 3* climbs is obvious, but in terms of linking geographically to optimise timing is important. Any suggestions/combos?

ajfclark
26-Sep-2014
11:03:58 AM
Maybe one day could be Eurydice, do the top pitch of Bard, head across to the front of bluff major, maybe Scorpion Corner and lower off, then Scorpion Direct, Quo Vardis, rap off, Thunder Crack, rap off, Missing Link

That's 15 in 8 pitches.

ajfclark
26-Sep-2014
11:09:03 AM
Watchtower Crack or Skink, rap, Brolga, rap, Auto De Fe.

9 Stars, 10 pitches
jprockbelly
26-Sep-2014
11:16:56 AM
So that's 10 two star climbs or 7 three star climbs.... should be able to knock that off in 1 day at the organ pipes. Presumably they will want to focus on shorter routes all near by to each other. This should get you to 20 stars:

D Minor/Major
Lemmington
Tannin (and direct)
Libretto
CS concerto
Piccolo (and direct)
Horn Piece
Cerberus
Aardvark

Probably not the most exciting tick list....
peteclimbs
26-Sep-2014
11:32:31 AM
Given you said up to 23, here are a few classics with a little bit more spice. Moving South to North you can visit a view different areas and score BIG stars at each. Everything below is 3*.

Flight deck area:
Orestes
Wizard of Ice

Organ Pipes and surrounds:
Lemmington
Tannin
Squeakeasy

Pharos:
Oceanoid
Judgement Day

Curtain:
Entertainer
Comic Relief

ajfclark
26-Sep-2014
11:36:37 AM
On 26/09/2014 jprockbelly wrote:
>So that's 10 two star climbs or 7 three star climbs.... should be able to knock that off in 1 day at the organ pipes.

He said grade 16-23 so I ignored the organ pipes.

ajfclark
26-Sep-2014
11:39:27 AM
The Select guide only gives 2 * to:

>Wizard of Ice
>Lemmington
>Squeakeasy
>Oceanoid
peteclimbs
26-Sep-2014
11:52:15 AM
The Select Guide also reckons Claw is 18 and Scorpion Crack Direct is 17 :)

Oceanoid is 3* any day of the week IMO. Two amazing, varied pitches with a bit of everything. I appreciate the others might be something of an acquired taste but still awesome (and way more satisfying than doing laps at the Organ Pipes).

For a classic Araps experience I'd also try and include Scorpion but obviously takes a bit of effort to get up there.
jprockbelly
26-Sep-2014
11:52:24 AM
On 26/09/2014 ajfclark wrote:
>He said grade 16-23 so I ignored the organ pipes.

oops, my bad
melon2
26-Sep-2014
12:23:40 PM
thanks JDB - I have decided that I don't get out of bed for less than two (sometimes in the eye of the beholder) stars...

The actual aim is not 20 stars, but as many as possible in a weekend.
The constraint is that they have to be routes neither of us has done before.


ajfclark
26-Sep-2014
1:12:56 PM
Do you have a tick list online for us to check against Melon2?

Snappy
26-Sep-2014
1:33:28 PM
On 26/09/2014 ajfclark wrote:
>Do you have a tick list online for us to check against Melon2?

New feature as of last release, if you log your ascents on thecrag.com

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/arapiles/routes/with-stars/2/with-grade/AU:16:23/unclimbed-by/USERNAMEHERE/

<< replace with your usename
johnpitcairn
26-Sep-2014
2:01:32 PM
On 26/09/2014 peteclimbs wrote:
>The Select Guide also reckons Claw is 18 and Scorpion Crack Direct is 17

I stupidly managed to make Scorpion Direct my first Arapiles 17 lead recently. Thought I was gonna die. So did my belayer.
jdb
26-Sep-2014
2:39:53 PM
I was thinking more along the lines of logical link ups. For example, Resignation into Scorpion Direct followed by Quo Vadis ( I haven't done this combo, but from my memory of that particular area, this would geographically make sense)
Jayford4321
26-Sep-2014
5:47:46 PM
>Bumblies reaching for the stars

Someone tried to grope simey?

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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