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Bumblies reaching for the stars |
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26-Sep-2014 10:46:32 AM
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Morning All,
I've got a couple of mates who are aspiring to tick 20 stars in a weekend at Arapiles in the 16-23 grade bracket. Clearly opting for 3* climbs is obvious, but in terms of linking geographically to optimise timing is important. Any suggestions/combos?
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26-Sep-2014 11:03:58 AM
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Maybe one day could be Eurydice, do the top pitch of Bard, head across to the front of bluff major, maybe Scorpion Corner and lower off, then Scorpion Direct, Quo Vardis, rap off, Thunder Crack, rap off, Missing Link
That's 15 in 8 pitches.
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26-Sep-2014 11:09:03 AM
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Watchtower Crack or Skink, rap, Brolga, rap, Auto De Fe.
9 Stars, 10 pitches
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26-Sep-2014 11:16:56 AM
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So that's 10 two star climbs or 7 three star climbs.... should be able to knock that off in 1 day at the organ pipes. Presumably they will want to focus on shorter routes all near by to each other. This should get you to 20 stars:
D Minor/Major
Lemmington
Tannin (and direct)
Libretto
CS concerto
Piccolo (and direct)
Horn Piece
Cerberus
Aardvark
Probably not the most exciting tick list....
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26-Sep-2014 11:32:31 AM
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Given you said up to 23, here are a few classics with a little bit more spice. Moving South to North you can visit a view different areas and score BIG stars at each. Everything below is 3*.
Flight deck area:
Orestes
Wizard of Ice
Organ Pipes and surrounds:
Lemmington
Tannin
Squeakeasy
Pharos:
Oceanoid
Judgement Day
Curtain:
Entertainer
Comic Relief
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26-Sep-2014 11:36:37 AM
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On 26/09/2014 jprockbelly wrote:
>So that's 10 two star climbs or 7 three star climbs.... should be able to knock that off in 1 day at the organ pipes.
He said grade 16-23 so I ignored the organ pipes.
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26-Sep-2014 11:39:27 AM
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The Select guide only gives 2 * to:
>Wizard of Ice
>Lemmington
>Squeakeasy
>Oceanoid
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26-Sep-2014 11:52:15 AM
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The Select Guide also reckons Claw is 18 and Scorpion Crack Direct is 17 :)
Oceanoid is 3* any day of the week IMO. Two amazing, varied pitches with a bit of everything. I appreciate the others might be something of an acquired taste but still awesome (and way more satisfying than doing laps at the Organ Pipes).
For a classic Araps experience I'd also try and include Scorpion but obviously takes a bit of effort to get up there.
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26-Sep-2014 11:52:24 AM
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On 26/09/2014 ajfclark wrote:
>He said grade 16-23 so I ignored the organ pipes.
oops, my bad
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26-Sep-2014 12:23:40 PM
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thanks JDB - I have decided that I don't get out of bed for less than two (sometimes in the eye of the beholder) stars...
The actual aim is not 20 stars, but as many as possible in a weekend.
The constraint is that they have to be routes neither of us has done before.
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26-Sep-2014 1:12:56 PM
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Do you have a tick list online for us to check against Melon2?
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26-Sep-2014 1:33:28 PM
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On 26/09/2014 ajfclark wrote:
>Do you have a tick list online for us to check against Melon2?
New feature as of last release, if you log your ascents on thecrag.com
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/arapiles/routes/with-stars/2/with-grade/AU:16:23/unclimbed-by/USERNAMEHERE/
<< replace with your usename
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26-Sep-2014 2:01:32 PM
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On 26/09/2014 peteclimbs wrote:
>The Select Guide also reckons Claw is 18 and Scorpion Crack Direct is 17
I stupidly managed to make Scorpion Direct my first Arapiles 17 lead recently. Thought I was gonna die. So did my belayer.
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26-Sep-2014 2:39:53 PM
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I was thinking more along the lines of logical link ups. For example, Resignation into Scorpion Direct followed by Quo Vadis ( I haven't done this combo, but from my memory of that particular area, this would geographically make sense)
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26-Sep-2014 5:47:46 PM
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>Bumblies reaching for the stars
Someone tried to grope simey?
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