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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
Author
Law unto himself - The Official Review

Imaclawfan
24/08/2014
11:54:31 AM

This book is very good .


When I say ' very good ' , id like 2 explain it like this :

In academia , Pass = 50-60 %
Credit =60-70%
Distinction = 70-80% ( very good )
High Distinction = 80% + ( brillient )


Now its not a brillient book but what IS brillient , is the fact that Claw ( and Tempest etal ) made the effort to put it together - a very important documentation of aus climbing from one of the key players/characters / identities ...

Thx from all of us , Claw

; )

mjf
24/08/2014
12:15:08 PM
On 24/08/2014 Imaclawfan wrote:
> This book is very good .
>
>
>When I say ' very good ' , id like 2 explain it like this :
>
>In academia , Pass = 50-60 %
>Credit =60-70%
>Distinction = 70-80% ( very good )
>High Distinction = 80% + ( brillient )
>
>
>Now its not a brillient book but what IS brillient , is the fact that
>Claw ( and Tempest etal ) made the effort to put it together - a very important
>documentation of aus climbing from one of the key players/characters /
>identities ...
>
>Thx from all of us , Claw
>
>; )
>

Where do we buy it??

I can't wait to read it...

Imaclawfan
24/08/2014
12:19:20 PM
http://osp.com.au/?p=6467

Imaclawfan
24/08/2014
12:28:04 PM
I also found that to make alot more sense out of it I read the history section of the araps guide + the Claw interview on Chockstone + the Claw interview on www.verticallife ...

Duang Daunk
24/08/2014
1:02:48 PM
On 24/08/2014 Imaclawfan wrote:
>I also found that to make alot more sense out of it I read the history
>section of the araps guide + the Claw interview on Chockstone + the
>Claw interview on www.verticallife ...

Just saying bro, what do you think of his retrobolting under the banner of making a safe retreat for others (with another climber), of a classic in the 'bungles?
He didn't get many fans from that, and the retro didn't last long.

Imaclawfan
24/08/2014
1:32:29 PM
>>>what do you think of his ...

When ever I think intensely about anything to do with Claw my thoughts always cloud over with this look-alike .....






GAAAAARRRRRRRHHHHHHH !!!!!!!


dalai
25/08/2014
7:34:29 PM
Welcome back Hexy!

sbm
25/08/2014
7:51:42 PM
On 24/08/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Just saying bro, what do you think of his retrobolting under the banner
>of making a safe retreat for others (with another climber), of a classic
>in the 'bungles?
>He didn't get many fans from that, and the retro didn't last long.
>

That's what happens when you climb on NSW sandstone for too long, you forget other areas actually have bolting ethics. "Whoops, the locals missed a spot here. Cliffs are just so ugly without a lovely neat grid! Lucky I brought the drill." *Tdtdtdtddtddtd*

Imaclawfan
4/09/2014
1:59:58 PM


Trending to Carrigan ....


Now my Claw is no silly old geezer
He DID get up those routes at The Freezer
I know that was some time ago,
but it does really go to show
that writing a book is a good way to deal with amnesia...

On Slopin Sleazin he wore bright lycra tights
until ticking-weather brought his fists to the fight
He hit the deck softly once
cos he was belayed by some bumbly-ing dopey dunce
Ya get that when falling from such heights
Final victory brought Claw sweet success :
Verbal orgasms of " YES ! YES !! YESSS !!! "
Now the punters salute Claw
Slopin Sleazin they adore.
Just read the book... I'm all done ... I need a rest ...

But hang on a minute !!
There's one other thing :
That's right - you guessed it :
Punks in the gym
The party it ended
when Wolfy stole the Aus-climbing-crown
from that other star of Claw's book :
' Captain Triangle ' - he abdicated from his own throne
- he had to step down

So Im hoping that soon it will all start to begin :
a book - even better - maybe brilliEnt !!!
This time authored by Kim ...




.

Damo666
4/09/2014
4:24:02 PM
And now it's been shortlisted for the Boardman-Tasker Award: http://www.boardmantasker.com/award/

Good stuff!

Big G
4/09/2014
10:18:18 PM
Is a great read, obviously some of the stories mean more of you've met people or climbed the route/crag but I found myself laughing out loud and for through it very rapidly indeed.

Imaclawfan
5/09/2014
10:56:10 PM

>>>'...Books with mountain,not necessarily mountaineering, theme whether fiction, non-fiction, drama or poetry, written in the English language (initially or in translation) will be eligible. The entry must be in book format, and not in the format of a magazine or other periodical or anthology...'


MOUNT Arapiles .... MAKALU ....

Looks like ya just snuck in there ....


>>>The winner will be announced at a prizegivng ceremony in November ...


' Very good ' got it onto the shortlist ... now its up to the poms to decide whether or not its ' brillient ' ...

Best of luck , Claw ...



Imaclawfan
5/09/2014
11:15:56 PM




Both have AWESOME eye brows and (according to the book) is known to love a snooze in a rubbish bin ...



: D





Imaclawfan
5/09/2014
11:38:34 PM
>>>1 users have voted that you be removed from the forum.
>>>0 users are ignoring your messages.


: D


Calm down Claw...

: D


.


.

Imaclawfan
7/09/2014
12:52:27 PM
No but seriously ...

: P

On 4/09/2014 Big G wrote:
>Is a great read, obviously some of the stories mean more of you've met
>people or climbed the route/crag ...

Thats true ,but it also works in other ways too . I mean the Sydney sea cliffs . Claw doesnt quite 'get ' why other people don't ' get ' the Sydey sea cliffs . He expounds a couple of theories that I tend to agree with , but I reakon there's more to it ... one climb : THE FEAR (17) ...People tend to think like aw yeah 17 peica piss I can do that , but then they look into the void of human horror and just cant 'get ' lurching out on sandy jugs above some mind-boggling abyss above the deep blue sea . the tendency then is to associate that one climb with ALL climbs at the Sydney sea cliffs ... A bit like this
www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOaxijuZ3-A
association keeps me from going beyond knee deep into the water at the beach ...
If THATS what a grade 17 at the Sydney sea cliffs is all about then what are the 18s , 19s,20s,21s22s etc like ???????????????? plus the fact that many people have used those same cliffs to leap into the void forever ...



Imaclawfan
7/09/2014
1:16:31 PM
On 24/08/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Just saying bro, what do you think of his retrobolting ...

Well Claw retrobolted one of his own climbs sometime after Kim Carrigan was nearly killed while trying to get to the first bolt, 30 feet off the deck...so THAT retrobolting was good , especially cos soon after Kim moved to Victoria and ' invented the modern Arapiles '

Bungles ? I reakon the whole Alpha Leather fiasco should have been dissected and disgust in the book ...cos I reakon that was the time when Claw became Mikl and he momentarily , lets hope , embraced the worst excesses of the sport climbing tsunami when it bulldozed across the crags of Australia ...





Duang Daunk
7/09/2014
9:35:31 PM
On 7/09/2014 Imaclawfan wrote:
>On 24/08/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>Just saying bro, what do you think of his retrobolting ...
>
>Well Claw retrobolted one of his own climbs sometime after Kim Carrigan
>was nearly killed while trying to get to the first bolt, 30 feet off the
>deck...so THAT retrobolting was good , especially cos soon after Kim moved
>to Victoria and ' invented the modern Arapiles '
>
>Bungles ? I reakon the whole Alpha Leather fiasco should have been dissected
>and disgust in the book ...cos I reakon that was the time when Claw became
>Mikl and he momentarily , lets hope , embraced the worst excesses of
>the sport climbing tsunami when it bulldozed across the crags of Australia
>...

Are you telling me that KC didn't know how to place gear? If that is the case then no wonder he nearly got killed, and it should have been obvious to him to do better, given his climbing ability.

You might be disgusted with the Alpha Leather ascent, but it has nothing to do with the Warrumbungles bro.

Talking about your favorite retro-ing things.. bro, seriously, what do ya think of his retro-grading after retro bolting stuff?
Talking here for example of Noblesse Oblige at Buffalo as grade 11 in its original unbolted state, and now grade 13 afer he retrobolted it!!!

Bloody good thing he doesn't bolt much in your home state ov Taswegia, eh bro?

Imaclawfan
8/09/2014
11:10:51 AM
On 7/09/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Are you telling me that KC didn't know how to place gear?..

Apart from taping on skyhooks ...

>You might be disgusted with the Alpha Leather ascent,

I didnt say I WAS disgusted... Ive just got bad spwelbing

>but it has nothing to do with the Warrumbungles bro

.Didnt say it did ,did I bro ...anyway , regional bolting ethics are meaningless in the new age of sport-climbing-globalisation
>
>Talking about your favorite retro-ing things.. bro, seriously, what do
>ya think of his retro-grading ...

Retro grading is fine ...it doesnt damage the route / rock ...Mark Moorhead graded Cobwebs at 26 and it probably WAS 26 for HIM ...he had a phenomenal ' ape factor ' ,,, just check out his wing span on that classic pic of London Calling.... if people want to call Cobwebs the hardest route in the world (in 1981) good luck to em ... if they wanna retro grade it to 28 so what ... bit like Pasport to Insanity ...' 24-28 depending on the size of your hands ' ...

>Bloody good thing he doesn't bolt much in your home state ov Taswegia,
>eh bro?

Someone beat him to it ...they put a bolt at the start of Rosy Pink Cadilac which he climbed ' by fair means ' circa 1978 ...

You HAVE red the book havent u , bro ...? ...


Stugang
8/09/2014
11:20:18 AM
Any chance of someone uploading the London calling pic. Never seen it and am curious.

shortman
8/09/2014
12:26:44 PM


Look like midget arms to me, :)

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There are 30 messages in this topic.

 

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