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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 111
Author
Law unto himself - The Official Review

Eduardo Slabofvic
8-Sep-2014
2:12:29 PM
Stugang,

The photo above is not Mark on London Calling.

ChuckNorris
8-Sep-2014
3:12:50 PM
Well done Eduardo. You made a joke that was funny and didn't mention bottoms.

Imaclawfan
8-Sep-2014
6:02:32 PM

Red flame in the sunset ... nice portrait of Claw at the Sydney sea cliffs


http://thenosev2.pairserver.com/climbers-forum/642582/Arapiles-The-Empire-Strikes-Back-Child-Carrigan-81

Duang Daunk
9-Sep-2014
12:55:08 PM
On 8/09/2014 Imaclawfan wrote:
>On 7/09/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>Are you telling me that KC didn't know how to place gear?..
>
>Apart from taping on skyhooks ...
>
>>You might be disgusted with the Alpha Leather ascent,
>
>I didnt say I WAS disgusted... Ive just got bad spwelbing
>
>>but it has nothing to do with the Warrumbungles bro
>
>.Didnt say it did ,did I bro ...anyway , regional bolting ethics are meaningless
>in the new age of sport-climbing-globalisation

Eh bro, get ya hand off it, otherwise we might think you're just posting to get a reaction.
>>
>>Talking about your favorite retro-ing things.. bro, seriously, what do
>>ya think of his retro-grading ...
>
>Retro grading is fine ...it doesnt damage the route / rock ...Mark Moorhead
>graded Cobwebs at 26 and it probably WAS 26 for HIM ...he had a phenomenal
>' ape factor ' ,,, just check out his wing span on that classic pic of
>London Calling.... if people want to call Cobwebs the hardest route in
>the world (in 1981) good luck to em ... if they wanna retro grade it to
>28 so what ... bit like Pasport to Insanity ...' 24-28 depending on the
>size of your hands ' ...

Variable grading might be good for some u-neek ungradeable climbs, but dumbing down a gd11 then calling it gd13 sounds like mikl still up to old tricks with a new twist, this time sandbaggin bumbly leaders off advencha climbs.
>
>>Bloody good thing he doesn't bolt much in your home state ov Taswegia,
>>eh bro?
>
>Someone beat him to it ...they put a bolt at the start of Rosy Pink Cadilac
>which he climbed ' by fair means ' circa 1978 ...
>
>You HAVE red the book havent u , bro ...? ...
>
Yep, and it is good.
A worthy addition of first hand perspective to our Ozy climbin kulcha, eh bro.

Talking Mark Moorhead and London Calling.
I liked the funny snippet on p82 where mikl has just finished telling us how gd23 is the universal sandbag and he an MM graded according to not breaking out laughing, and then says when MM was working LC (gd26), he was yelling at the ants that were, literally, walking the crux. And though he was a master at working routes, he was also a master at forgetting the moves!

Imaclawfan
9-Sep-2014
3:52:45 PM
....whaaaa ? ....aaawwwwwriiiight....Im still starring out to sea.... at that lovely view behind Claw , where infinity resides .... sea ...north head ? .... sky....... bewwwwtiful......




I think I finally ' get ' the Sydney sea cliffs .....


.

Imaclawfan
9-Sep-2014
4:04:14 PM
>>>sandbaggin bumbly leaders off advencha climbs....

C#nt remember what page it was but after he saw some hot foxy chick / bumbly-leader -on-an-advencha-climb get killed ...Im not sirprised Claw has a ...ahem ... strong sense of ' duty of care ' .....

Imaclawfan
9-Sep-2014
4:33:32 PM
Im starting to cum-to ... OK !!!....Im awake !!!!!!


Anyway DingDong DungDang .... I DO like u ...Im glad you stated the page # thing cos I was about to .... On circa p107 Claw say ' history ended and after 10 grade increases in 10 years we all needed a break ...

Well Wolfy was just warming up ...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfgang_G%C3%BCllich

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)

http://www.onsight.com.au/2013/08/oz-gets-grade-35-9a/

Punks 32 @ 1985

Action Direct 35 ,six years later @ 1991

R.-E-D 35 @ 2013 ... about 25 years after Wolfy climbed Action and about 30 years after he climbed Punks ...

What the hell happened to Australian climbing all those years ??????


IMaclawfan
9-Sep-2014
5:09:37 PM
Imaclawfan exasperated
>>>What the hell happened to Australian climbing all those years ??????

Well actually I do know ..

... and it comes down to the one thing that Claw definitely doesnt ' get ' ...

... his relationship with Kim Carrigan ...

.... like a couple of magnets , they either bonded strongly ...or danced around repelling each other ...


...now wait for it ....


I would go so far as to say KIm Carrigan was the consumate proffessional while Claw was the ultimate enthusiastic ameteur ...


* sound of running feet !!! *




Imaclawfan
9-Sep-2014
5:32:46 PM
I c#nt leave that one hangin ...

;P

Ya see Claw says things like Kim was totally into diet and training and liasoning with the media and all that ... and it ' all seemed liked soulless hard work to us feral disorganised types '

and that Claw and Moorhead didnt believe anyone was really climbing 5.12 in Australia and thats why they undergraded everything ...

Well KIm DELIBERATELY went O/S a lot to see for himself what the standards were so Kim KNEW the global status quo and thats why he got ' infuriated ' with Claw and MM etal ...


One of Claws quotes comes to mind

' up to ur waist in a real shit fight '


* sound of feet running !!! *

GAAAAAAAARRRRRHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Imaclawfan
9-Sep-2014
6:13:31 PM
Another Claw quote ... Ive ' grounded the electricity that surrounds ' the last 2 posts

Ok my frenz... this is where this thread enz

Somewhere in the book Claw says he and Tempest are looking at writing the hiSTORY
of Aus climbing

Well until Kim Carrigan ' puts his spin on events ' theres not much point

I would love for Kim to write his autobiography or get Tempest / Child to do a biography

Kim has BRILLIANT photos to share ( that one of Jug Abuse in Claws book eg ) and is a great climbing writer also (many memorable mag articles )

Claw says the ' worshippy ' Carrigan years were 1978 to 1984... well I reckon they were 1977 to 1985

Cos it was the Kim/ Greg 2nd ascent of Pacific Ocean Wall in Yosemite Valley , California , USA that REALLY put Kim on the World stage in 1977 and then charmingly handing his crown to Wolfy in 1985...



?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????


Imaclawfan
25-Nov-2014
3:21:56 PM
On 4/09/2014 Damo666 wrote:
>And now it's been shortlisted for the Boardman-Tasker Award: http://www.boardmantasker.com
>award/
>
>Good stuff!


...AND THE WINNER IS !!! ??? !!!


http://www.boardmantasker.com/award/







Imaclawfan
25-Nov-2014
3:28:19 PM
>>>and then charmingly handing his crown to Wolfy in 1985...

1985 is also very important cos Kim established ' the best climb in Yosemite ' - and ia climb that can be regarded as Kim's swan somg to the ' Carrigan Years '

http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Rostrum-North-Face






Imaclawfan
25-Nov-2014
3:31:37 PM
Claw adds a lot of ' colour ' to Australian climbing , but when you strip away all the bollocks ur left with 2 people :

Johm Ewbank and Kim Carrigan
martym
25-Nov-2014
5:26:50 PM
Does this mean you finally finished the book?

Imaclawfan
25-Nov-2014
7:24:16 PM
On 25/11/2014 martym wrote:
>Does this mean you finally finished the book?

Eeeerrrrrrrrr.... welll Id already finished Claws book..... and in the interim I had a gritty ride thru Andrew Locks Summit 8000 - a mediocre masterpiece vsv the spiritual-standard of the Messner & Kukukska efforts on the same theme ...I also red a book on rock n roll and learned that Jon Bonham and Bon Scott both drowned in vomit circa Jan 1980...


As for the KC book ... Im still hoping that Tempest -Child will do an AWESOME biography ...I think Kim is still too paralysed and traumitised by Serious Young Lizards to do it himself....Im seriosly considering offering Tempest-Child , 50 grand ....
thats $ 50000
thats fifty thousand dollars ... as a grant towards the project

Im thinkin : ' THE CARRIGAN YEARS - 1975 to 1985 - From Henry Barber to Wolfgang Gullich '

On of the reasons Claws book didnt make Brillient was the physical format - too cut and paste ... too small to do the photos justice ... and too scrapbook in tone ...


Here is KC on the final headwall above the roof

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.533490686717111.1073741830.178411122225071/546409015425278/?type=1&theater





Duang Daunk
25-Nov-2014
9:09:40 PM
On 25/11/2014 Imaclawfan wrote:
>1985 is also very important cos Kim established ' the best climb in Yosemite
>' - and ia climb that can be regarded as Kim's swan somg to the ' Carrigan
>Years '
>
>http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Rostrum-North-Face
>
>
>
Eh Icf bro, you did read tha link ya provided us?
Where it says in da history sec
>Then, in 1985 Kim Carrigan, Australia’s best cragsman, managed to turn the summit roof.

It was pitch 8 of 8 pitches, an
>in 1977 those magnificent climbers Ron Kauk and John Yablonski managed to free all but the final pitch, a horrendous roof (they finished 10 feet to the right on Blind Faith, which today is the standard North Face finish­­). The pair climbed about eight pitches of 5.10 and 5.11, most of it involving extremely strenuous crack climbing. A tremendous accomplishment.

What is with the "established the best climb in Yos"? - given that it was one short pitch of new climbing?
Yeh the crux pitch, but did he rap in just to clean up that top pitch, or do it ground up (yeh pic link says onsight), cos a first continuous ascent including that pitch would be a little closer to your claim. More like a last problem solved, an I wonder if KC would've bothered if it was only a single pitch at ground level in tha valley of gods walls, instead of being in the proud position it is.

I think you need to join Ed in getting a vaccination shot before delivering us such info.
Take the KC coloured belay glasses off and look at the big picture bro, then get back to us.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26-Nov-2014
9:04:03 AM
On 25/11/2014 Imaclawfan wrote:
>Here is KC on the final headwall above the roof
>


FixedthatforyouhexywasaclawfanbutisnowafanofanicecreamsellerinQldinstead?...

Imaclawfan
26-Nov-2014
9:48:50 PM
i c#nt be bothered spoon feedin u Ding Dong Dung...was Claws one move on KIngdom Come REALLY such a big deal ???...apparently so ...

Anyway movin right along ...

Everyones now got their head around the idea of a Brillient KC book ... thats the main thing ...

And as long as it comes out well before Claws history of aus climbing , so that Claw can take off his ' ...it was easy to dismiss Kim... ' coloured glasses ...



Imaclawfan
26-Nov-2014
10:13:14 PM

'..."One of the most serious routes in Australia, I thought I was going to die for sure" – Kim Carrigan. On the crux pitch, Kim was out 10m from a #0 RP...'

...I LOVE THIS ...


ChuckNorris
26-Nov-2014
10:21:45 PM
On 26/11/2014 Imaclawfan wrote:
>
>'..."One of the most serious routes in Australia, I thought I was going
>to die for sure" – Kim Carrigan. On the crux pitch, Kim was out 10m from
>a #0 RP...'
>
>...I LOVE THIS ...
>
>

yawn....as long as KC's belayer knew how to give a soft catch he woulda been fine.

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