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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Aid climbing
Cali
1/08/2014
3:04:32 PM
Hey,
I'm keen to get into aid climbing a bit more seriously. I have dabbled a little in the states a few years back (couldn't have gone to Yosemite and not got on a big wall) but would love someone who knows the ropes (pun intended) to head out with to get efficient and learn some tricks. A mate (aid beginner) and I would like to get up ozy at the end of the year sometime. Between us we have most of the gear, except portaledge and haul bags. Does anyone know of anyone/anywhere that would loan/hire out this kind of kit? Or anyone with used gear for sale cheap?

Also what are some good aid practice lines around Geelong/Melbourne that would be good to get on to dial leading and jugging? (You yangs?) - I'm based in Geelong.

Ps- for all the aid haters out there I'm not interested in hearing why I should go and climb something easier that I can get up without aid. I'm interested in the adventure of going somewhere I can't get otherwise with some good mates.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/08/2014
4:45:08 PM
On 1/08/2014 Cali wrote:
>Hey,
>I'm keen to get into aid climbing a bit more seriously. I have dabbled
>a little in the states a few years back (couldn't have gone to Yosemite
>and not got on a big wall) but would love someone who knows the ropes (pun
>intended) to head out with to get efficient and learn some tricks. A mate
>(aid beginner) and I would like to get up ozy at the end of the year sometime.
> Between us we have most of the gear, except portaledge and haul bags.
>Does anyone know of anyone/anywhere that would loan/hire out this kind
>of kit? Or anyone with used gear for sale cheap?
>
>Also what are some good aid practice lines around Geelong/Melbourne that
>would be good to get on to dial leading and jugging? (You yangs?) - I'm
>based in Geelong.
>
>Ps- for all the aid haters out there I'm not interested in hearing why
>I should go and climb something easier that I can get up without aid. I'm
>interested in the adventure of going somewhere I can't get otherwise with
>some good mates.

Good to hear you are interested in adventure.
I can loan you a haulbag. PM me closer to the date you are going to attempt it.
You won't need anything exotic for getting up Ozy, as a combined free rack will do it.
Re sleeping arrangements, hammocks are light and will work well on Ozy.

Re practise closer to home with someone experienced, possibly give Miguel75 or phillipivan a PM...
... other than that, it will be a bit of a wait till the next Buffalo Aid Weekend get together.

Pat
1/08/2014
10:35:38 PM
Waddya mean M9? The weather's perfect right now.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/08/2014
7:13:39 PM
On 1/08/2014 Pat wrote:
>Waddya mean M9? The weather's perfect right now.

-5C and 100+ kph winds.
Perfect for macca and phillipivan maybe, but my enjoyment of extended duration aid climbing starts diminishing at that level of potential suffering!
;-)

Do you have Ozy on your upcoming radar?

phillipivan
Online Now
2/08/2014
8:43:34 PM
No weekend this year M9? I was kind of looking forward to it. As for options closer to home. I can think of only a few dedicated aid lines. Which are hard. But there are plenty of other routes to practise on, though I've never really done this, other than an afternoon of jugging with Miguel. Since almost everyone seems to waste huge amounts of energy aiding when they start, probably it's best just to have a crack, any old place, see what works and what wastes time and energy then try different solutions of your own design or that your read somewhere and gradually get things dialled.

I find it easy to believe, say, that if we had been a bit more efficient, Huw and I would have been oh, 8 hours faster on Ozi last year. Perhaps more.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/08/2014
10:21:36 PM
On 2/08/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>No weekend this year M9? I was kind of looking forward to it.

It is still up in the air somewhat for my part, due a 'supply and demand' thing happening here. Unlike some previous years since the last event things have quietened down a fair bit regarding the aid type enquiries I receive behind the scenes; so gauging from that it would seem that demand is satiated for the time being?
People like yourself have run with the bit between your teeth since gaining the basics which is very heartening, but as far as a share experiences/tips/tricks/make contacts for future adventures, gathering, it may be better to put it off a year and have greater numbers involved?

I am open to suggestion.
If numbers justify a gathering then late November is a time that has worked in the past for not clashing with most things. It also means the road is likely open out Devils Couch direction, which caters for the level of ability that suits newer devotees.

Other than that, the experienced crew could gather for a NorthWallathon/party, like the Canberra mob did a while back?

>(snip)

>I find it easy to believe, say, that if we had been a bit more efficient, Huw and I would have been oh, 8 hours faster on Ozi last year. Perhaps more.

That kind of efficiency only comes with mileage after the mindset has resolved it!
;-)

harold
2/08/2014
11:26:08 PM
For the You Yangs, get on Adam and Orpheus in the Underworld. If you can get up those reasonably efficiently you should be Ok for anything on Ozy.
Plenty of other cracks there to practice and get your system dialed.
No real need for portaledge on Ozy, and a few good trips reports on chocky with all the beta you could want.

phillipivan
Online Now
3/08/2014
12:08:43 AM
I prehaps had something more like the wallathon in mind. Surely enough folks have cut their teeth on the cream machine thanks to you that a certain set might be interested. I guess I'd be interested in doing or seeing others so something other than the classics also.
TimP
3/08/2014
2:15:54 PM
I'd like to check out aid climbing. Watched last years event and reports on Chocky with great interest. Was hoping it would run again this year.

Pat
3/08/2014
9:16:01 PM
On 2/08/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>
>Do you have Ozy on your upcoming radar?

I have a very long distance radar rod, so yep its on the radar.

actually getting over a rotor cuff tear at the moment, - so trying to be very careful to get it fully mended - being a man of a certain age means it is coming along slowly.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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