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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes, but you'd have to be a muppet... 2
5% 
No, don't be a muppet .... 30
77% 
Only Muppets would do that sort of shit.... 2
5% 
What sort of muppet would do that anyway? 1
3% 
Bloody muppets! No idea! 1
3% 
Is one of them called Kermatt .... 3
8% 

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
Author
Poll: Retrobolting Trad lines?

Duang Daunk
26/07/2014
3:28:07 PM
On 26/07/2014 hughsut wrote:
>People should consider a lot of different factors before bolting a route.
>One such factor is "Is the line protectable on natural gear?"
>
>Someone might be trying it as a trad climb. It might be hard to tell as
>there is usually little or no trace.
>
>My advice to someone that wants to bolt a potential trad climb is as follows:
>
>
>"Don't bolt it. If you must climb the line, then Top rope it. If you must
>lead it, do it on pre-placed gear. If the gear is too far apart, use long
>slings. Some people consider these to be less pure styles of climbing,
>but it is better than bolting a trad climb, especially if someone has been
>trying the line ground up on gear."

Well said, and I think you have given good advice.

If you see bolts sprout on a trad climb would you do anything about it?
hughsut
26/07/2014
5:39:37 PM
It would depend a bit on the individual case.

I would endeavour to find out who did the bolting and what their reasoning was.

You could do nothing and accept that there are less trad climbs/projects to be done on gear, but I don't like this option.

Chopping the bolts is one option but I wouldn't do that in the heat of the moment or without free climbing the route on gear first (hence eliminating the bolts).

The rock would be scarred and look unnatural, that is always a shame.

Sometimes (often) a great natural line gets freed and nothing is documented. There would be dozens of lines around the blue mountains in this category. Someone could be forgiven for putting a bolt at the lip of a roof crack if its purpose was to keep the rope from pushing gear deep into the crack and they believed they were the first to try the route. This would be less of a problem than if a known trad climb/project got completely bolted, in this case there would be more grounds to chop.

Again, I wouldn't chop without discussing it with other climbers from a wide range of backgrounds first.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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