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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
Author
Best wide crack in Vic/NSW.

stugang
19/06/2014
10:20:45 PM
wide corner cracks aren't the same as an offwidth.
Ithomas
19/06/2014
10:22:15 PM
I agree.
climber72
20/06/2014
3:23:47 AM
Golgotha is F@**ing awful..but fun

vwills
20/06/2014
4:09:13 AM
More Tassie things at organ pipes: sandy bay road, and at lost world: stone the crows. And South aust curving wall at Moonarie. Point perp has a few, real men have boobs was a real grovel. And Electra and wizard of ice at arapiles.
mikllaw
20/06/2014
7:04:41 AM
best wide crack? at what grade would be the main criteria.
dmcg
20/06/2014
11:35:17 AM
On 19/06/2014 Superstu wrote:
>Sadly I suspect all the Canberra hardpeople
>are too busy posing amongst the spooge at Nowra to have the time to throw
>themselves at a real climb like this one.

Fear not superstu, for all has not gone completely to the dogers in the national capital. The off-width roof at Gibraltar Peak had its first ascent just two weeks ago, and by a local, and sans bolts.

And Ian T, yes! earlier this year the big off-width line left of Soolaimon at Trojan Wall had its first ascent by the same bod. Found high up under the roof was a bong, would this have been placed by you? what the heck did you protect the rest of this 35 metre beast with pre #6 camalots and big bros? (maybe you figured your galibier super guide would stay wedged in the crack even if the rest of you didnt?) maybe you just didn't? I'll attempt to add a pic of both these get'n done:





ithomas
20/06/2014
12:37:40 PM
That's great news about the Trojan Wall line finally getting an ascent (I must tell Ray Lassman, John Smart and Norm Booth). I recall the whole boot thing was a spectacular failure and I also remember getting up under the roof and then having to down-climb (well, down-squirm really, and nearly falling in the process) to a place where I could relax enough to put in something on which to bail. As for protecting the lower section I think we must have had one or two tubes but they were far and few between and quite poor. Probably could have anchored on my foot with it's big mountain boot. Possibly we might have had more success if Ray, with his leathery old feet, had tried leading barefoot. I think Henry thought it would be about 23 and we figured it was 20ish up to where we left it.
Cheers and thanks for that news.
dmcg
20/06/2014
4:10:00 PM
Ian, you (and ray and john and norm) should be consulted by the team putting the new act granite guide together! I reckon you could come up with some highly entertaining bits of history - development of the cloisters perhaps?
Interestingly after some cogitation Bjorn ended up with exactly the numbers you (and henry) suggested for 'Trojan'. So it seems, despite a 40 year gap, grading can hold some consistency - though if the line was fully bolted and turned into a sport route you'd probably have to add 4 grades to cater for all the demolished egos. Cheers dave
crunchybits1
20/06/2014
5:59:00 PM
On 19/06/2014 nmonteith wrote:
>Layback and Think of England (20?) at Amnesty Wall (Grampians) is a cool
>wide crack
>

>
>I did the first ascent of this new wide crack at lower Sublime Point (Bluies)
>a few weeks back...


I think you will find that Greg Child did your "new route" at sublime pt. in the seventies, pretty sure there's even a picture in an old "thrutch" of him on it.

E. Wells
20/06/2014
7:38:12 PM
How can one find this...
Crunchy bits can you tell me who put top out routes up at a crag which is now called 'Little River' on thecrag ? Im thinking W . Stewart but have no idea (about most things)

nmonteith
20/06/2014
9:09:25 PM
On 20/06/2014 crunchybits1 wrote:
>I think you will find that Greg Child did your "new route" at sublime
>pt. in the seventies, pretty sure there's even a picture in an old "thrutch"
>of him on it.

You are right! I just asked and he did it with Chris Piesker in '76. He doesn't remember the name he gave it - maybe Titus Groan or Ghormanghast. Bugger.

vwills
21/06/2014
5:31:57 PM
Dave remembers the picture in thrutch. He reckons it was called Titus groan.
crunchybits1
22/06/2014
10:10:46 AM
On 20/06/2014 E. Wells wrote:
>How can one find this...
>Crunchy bits can you tell me who put top out routes up at a crag which
>is now called 'Little River' on thecrag ? Im thinking W . Stewart but have
>no idea (about most things)
>
Pretty sure it was Harry Preston, I remember him taking me to a cliff somewhere around there .


Titus Groan sounds right

IdratherbeclimbingM9
22/06/2014
11:17:05 AM
On 20/06/2014 nmonteith wrote:
>On 20/06/2014 crunchybits1 wrote:
>>I think you will find that Greg Child did your "new route" at sublime
>>pt. in the seventies, pretty sure there's even a picture in an old "thrutch"
>>of him on it.
>
>You are right! I just asked and he did it with Chris Piesker in '76. He
>doesn't remember the name he gave it - maybe Titus Groan or Ghormanghast.
>Bugger.

Maybe this post needs updating with the bugger-factor?
Heh, heh, heh.


Btw, I have tried sending you a PM recently, but your PM box is still full, and has been for a month now...

nmonteith
22/06/2014
12:08:30 PM
On 22/06/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Btw, I have tried sending you a PM recently, but your PM box is still full, and has been for a month now...

Emptied.

Superstu
23/06/2014
8:33:39 AM
On 20/06/2014 dmcg wrote:

>Fear not superstu, for all has not gone completely to the dogers in the
>national capital. The off-width roof at Gibraltar Peak had its first ascent
>just two weeks ago, and by a local, and sans bolts.










Wow! Fantastic effort. Hat off to Mr Aikman. Surely this must be a contender to the "Most painful gut wrenching, hardest off width classics out there".

We need a repeat from Wendy to confirm its worthiness and three star grade 24 status.


Wendy
23/06/2014
9:04:04 AM
Wendy is just being quietly miffed that someone else got their arse onto it before she did :) What's the roof crack in the top right of the other photos?
Ithomas
23/06/2014
10:08:00 AM
That is Soolaimon.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
There are 58 messages in this topic.

 

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