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General Climbing Discussion

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Vic/NSW big wall
11:47:07 AM
Hi all, first time poster here but have been reading the forum for a while. Recently moved to Australia from the UK.

I'm looking for the biggest/longest good climb in Vic/NSW. As long as possible, as long as it's not some contrived route that wanders around too much. Something around 12-16 would be ideal, but I don't mind aiding the odd harder bits. Am I right in thinking I should be looking in the Blue Mountains for this sort of route? Possibly even the gorge at Mt Buffalo? Any crag or route suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Another quick question... Australia doesn't have too much in the way of alpine or winter climbing, but I'm keen to explore anyway. Does anyone know if the Blue Lake and Mt Buller ice lines are more likely to form early or late winter? Scottish ice is usually best in early Spring, just wondered if it's similar over here.

Thanks all, happy climbs.

12:47:30 PM
If you're into aid climbing, buffalo is where it's at.
12:52:58 PM
Long cruisy rock - Conerstone Rib - Warrumbungles - best 14 in OZ

Winter stuff - NZ all the way - dont bother with OZ. Remarkables is scotland without the haggis.

Darrens is world class winter - but maby not for 1st timers.........

2:08:27 PM
Two of the more obvious candidates:

Norblesse Oblige (13) @ buffalo

Margarine Ridge (13) @ Mt Hay, blue mts

2:54:49 PM
Where Angels Fear to Tread at Buffalo...?

He he he;)
3:59:33 PM
You of course want Red Tide, Grampians.

he he he yourself!
4:16:36 PM
BL is ok from July onwards and quite reliable until late August - but you will only get 10-15 meters of vertical ice at most. Just make sure you get the weather forecast before heading out there. Check here and for updates.

Mt Buller is notoriously un-reliable. If you can get 1-2 weekends of good ice each season then it's a very good season, and it not looking good at all this year!
4:17:49 PM
In Victoria, probably the Queen Victoria route at Buffalo, 440m 19 M1. Pulling on some big pieces in the crux section should cut the grade bit

E. Wells
8:36:25 PM
I reckon something like 'cornerstone rib' 14 , at Warrambungles is better than most things here in Blueys at those grades. And its warmer in winter. Warrambungles is great for long climbs.
8:57:01 AM
The 'Bungles without a doubt. The climbing is REALLY good. Apart from cornerstone there is Bastion Buttress (10) and Elijah (16) on Bluff Mtn which fit your grades. Real mountain crag. Fantastic flora and fauna. Its a mountain in the big flat so the horizon becomes below you all around. The local town Coonabarabran is a cultural epicentre. Its where cup winner Tuloc came from.

If you get up that way there is a grade 3! crater traverse at Mt Kaputar which is well worth a dawn.

Otherwise Mt Arapilies has the best routes of those grades around 100m anywhere.
Dr Nick
9:32:56 AM
Don't get benighted in the 'Bungles, because if you use a head torch and aim up the local astronomers will lynch you.
10:06:40 AM
Getting benighted in the bungles apart from freezing your tits off, drinking your own piss is awesome.

Dr Nick makes a good point, a trip to the telescope would be awesome. One of those things a local indefinately puts off but a tourist must do.

10:20:19 AM
Bluff mountain still closed isn't it?
10:31:05 AM
On 17/06/2014 widewetandslippery wrote:
> The local town
>Coonabarabran is a cultural epicentre. Its where cup winner Tuloc came
Cultural epicentre? Last time I was there the town basically shut down for a Lee Kernaghan concert.

11:19:23 AM
You dirty because you couldn't get tickets?
11:36:41 AM
On 17/06/2014 rodw wrote:
>You dirty because you couldn't get tickets?
No, because the only thing open was the chinese. Not good.
12:19:04 PM
Hey WWS,
And if not benighted you can always try getting wickedly stoned and then get 'lost' in the mist and dark in the gully below.....!!!!!

12:40:01 PM
On 17/06/2014 GoUp! wrote:
>Hey WWS,
>And if not benighted you can always try getting wickedly stoned and then
>get 'lost' in the mist and dark in the gully below.....!!!!!

Sounds like first hand knowledge.
1:13:30 PM
It was the spirits up high that got us back from the Bluff Mtn waterfall.

Btw GoUp wasnt there, it was a go down day......................................

E. Wells
4:22:03 PM
Bluff Mtn isnt closed. There is a bit of track rebuild on part of the grand high tops circuit but its all open for camping/climbing. I dont think they are opening the hut for folks as there is no toilet there anymore but still water tank and awning available. Amazingly alot of the staircase heading up toward Balor is still intact.

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