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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 93
Author
Hardest Australian Trad Onsight

nmonteith
2/08/2004
9:42:25 AM
eeek! i go away for the weekend and this forum goes bererk (again). My comments were made entirley off the cuff and not really with much thought. I had no idea how controversial it would be! Lee (manacubas) and I are always argueing over the 'exact' definition of onsight, flash, redpoint ect. In fact we have never 100% agreeded and its a bit of a running joke. We are also both HUGE fans of Simon's work and of course have seen his huge publicity campaign to make the Totem Pole more famous than Kachoong! Our dig was based on the fact that if you were to define 'onsight' as a pure, blindfolded, no chalk, ground-up ect then Monique woudl have certainly had some 'beta' (ie seeign Simons photos). I think the definition betwen flash and onsight is very blurred in the modern world of bolts, chalk and glossy climbing magazines. I guess I was trolling... without really thinking about it. Having climbed on the seacliffs of Tassie over Xmas last year I can really appricate the amazing physical and even more importantly mental aspect of onsghting that route. Monique should be proud of her achievement! I am sure I have made some other comment that might offend someone - i guess i will sit back and wait for the millions of posts to flood in!
dalai
2/08/2004
9:48:47 AM
That's it Neil, topic is now locked ;-)

nmonteith
2/08/2004
9:51:55 AM
at least this toipic is about climbing! - not about picking up chicks or whatever Damo was on about....
dalai
2/08/2004
10:01:43 AM
Was only in jest Neil...

I agree some of our PC friend Damiens posts step well over the line on ocassion and deserved to be locked or deleted. Maybe those inappropriate posts would get him a better response if he posted them in a singles chatroom than here, where it only alienates him to other chockstone users both male and female alike.

manacubus
2/08/2004
10:18:16 AM
Whoa! What a thing to find on Monday morning!

I haven't read all the comments yet (just Simon's one) but let me say right away that what I said was a perfectly innocent joke! Sometimes online you can't accurately portray the tone of a message. I obviously touched a nerve to provoke the reaction that I got.

So let me take this opportunity, for the record!, to say sorry guys! I like and respect you both a great deal (as you already know).
onsight
2/08/2004
10:55:12 AM
On 2/08/2004 nmonteith wrote:
>I think the definition betwen
>flash and onsight is very blurred in the modern world of bolts, chalk and
>glossy climbing magazines.
That's true. I guess I should give up photography before "Onsight" kills "the onsight".

Please don't worry about it fellas. All in good fun. Simply not an issue. Enough said (I’ll explain the “nerve” another time). Anyway…

didn't Louise Shepherd onsight Trojan (25) back in nineteen eighty something? Another one for “the girls” perhaps?

nmonteith
2/08/2004
11:07:15 AM
On 2/08/2004 onsight wrote:

>That's true. I guess I should give up photography before "Onsight" kills
>"the onsight".

Classic Simon! - that one should go down in the quotable quotes of all time.

>
>didn't Louise Shepherd onsight Trojan (25) back in nineteen eighty something?
>Another one for “the girls” perhaps?

It was the first flash ascent i think - 1983?

I still don't consider Trojan or the Totem Pole as pure trad climbs. Both contain fairly hefty amounts of fixed gear.

climberman
2/08/2004
11:31:44 AM
Louise's flash of Trojan was at the time the hardest flash ascent by a woman, globally, I think. Louise was climbing as hard as any female anywhere at the time, 'parrently. And being largely ignored both here and OS for it.

Louise has always maintained it as a flash at the grade, rather than an onsight, or as a gear route.

nmonteith
2/08/2004
11:35:39 AM
On 2/08/2004 climberman wrote:
>Louise has always maintained it as a flash at the grade, rather than an
>onsight, or as a gear route.

I wasn't having a dig at Louise, I was just trying to steer this topic back to the actual title... Hardest Australian Trad Onsight!
climberman
2/08/2004
1:06:12 PM
nah mate, dinnit think you were.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/08/2004
1:17:58 PM
Continueing in the 'vain' (pun intended) of the thread ... "I wasn't having a dig but"

On 31/07/2004 mikl law wrote:
> As we know well, trad does not equal bold. The few trad routes that
>are bold were a big mistake that turned out ok in the end.
Wot ???
Oh woe is me, I have been doing it for all the wrong reasons. Oi, Quick; Belayer, send up Simon Yates' knife so I can slash my wrists (rope?) ...

>The Bluff moutain routes weren't very bold (Kim aided the hard part to
>get gear in, a bit of an eye opener for me)
So does this make it hardest onsight-AID (grade) classification instead?

>Almost any new route from the 60's was a lot more bold due to the terrible
>level of gear and the level of climbing.
HEAR, HEAR!
>Leiben on Crater Bluff is a total poopy dacker with sticky boots, double ropes and a rack of cams. >In sandshoes and pith helmets in midsummer it would have been somewhat memorable.

... or likewise today if its grade is at your limit.

Love that route. Full marks to the 1st ascent team (Bryden Allen & Keith Lockwood) for sussing the line and having the cajones to go there (even with primitive gear).
Full marks to an earlier guidebook writer who included the remark;
'Start (the climb) at Allens boots!' ...; (now long since perished).

>A blend of Ignorance and immortality is what is required.
... along with a reasonable passage of time, or a few mates to enhance the subsequent campfire yarn !

[No offence mikl :) ... Love your posts.]

adski
2/08/2004
9:14:49 PM
On 31/07/2004 mikl law wrote:
>Almost any new route from the 60's was a lot more bold due to the terrible
>level of gear and the level of climbing. Leiben on Crater Bluff is a total
>poopy dacker with sticky boots, double ropes and a rack of cams. In sandshoes
>and pith helmets in midsummer it would have been somewhat memorable.

I second the vote for Lieben for sure.

Peeps who onsight adventure routes in the bungles get my respect, especially the visionaries who put up the lines in the first place. I've taken a 15m factor 2 on Lieben (due to broken holds + stripped gear) and it holds a very special place in the seat of my pants.
bne
3/08/2004
5:46:00 AM
just when you thought you were back on the topic....
Can you really have an onsight when a climb has already been climbed before...(not FA). If a climb has a grade, you already have some beta and know what to expect. Saying guidebook information is ok is a problem because the amount of info depends on the author.

mousey
3/08/2004
10:01:15 AM
there is a dictionary def./absolutely pure onsight i guess, but really its kinda unreachable...i think in the real world whether you got the onsight is very much a personal thing- do you think you had any beta that made it easier? and whether you got it onsight or flash not many people will really give a damn (its really only a personal achievement thing) unless of course you make an onsight claim at some heniously hard line (eg. it took a long time for people to start acccepting my onsight of cenotaph corner at berowra...)
i dunno its one of those topics that will always provide campfire delight

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/08/2004
10:20:06 AM
On 2/08/2004 adski wrote:
>I second the vote for Lieben for sure.
>I've taken a 15m factor 2 on Lieben (due to broken holds + stripped gear)

Where on the route?
Contrary to the 'guidebook crux', IMO the opening moves off 'green haven' ledge were the crux for me. Apart from the usual 'Bungles looseness I thought the top pitch was loose but the rest not too bad, (good actually).
The start of the route can be problematic knowing where to go on the 1st pitch, and thus could be runout for 'onsight purposes'.

adski
3/08/2004
3:21:41 PM
The fall was off the belay on the second pitch of real climbing (the 3rd pitch). It's a good route for falling on thankfully, a steep featureless wall with minimal protrusions.

You're right about the routefinding on this route and Crucifixion, it's a bit hard to tell.

robbo
10/08/2004
10:33:52 PM

>Contra is a semi-sport route - with the crux protected by bolts.
Cobwebs is also argubly half a sport route with the crux protected by a piton.
kieranl
10/08/2004
10:45:49 PM
On 2/08/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:

>Love that route. Full marks to the 1st ascent team (Bryden Allen & Keith
>Lockwood)
I don't think Noddy was on the first ascent of Lieben with Bryden, I think it was Ted Batty.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/08/2004
9:10:14 AM
On 10/08/2004 kieranl wrote:
>I don't think Noddy was on the first ascent of Lieben with Bryden, I think
>it was Ted Batty.
You are right, and my memory stands corrected.

It was back in 1962 ?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/10/2012
1:49:52 PM
Bump...

An interesting old thread that contains many things that some newer Chockstone members might consider to be more recent flavours on Chockstone.
~> The more some things change, the more they stay the same?
Heh, heh, heh.


In this, the 10th anniversary year of Chockstone, it is an interesting exercise to peruse the archive and gain a snapshot view of the change/s that have (or not) taken place...

 Page 3 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 93
There are 93 messages in this topic.

 

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