Viper Size L (2013 model as shown)
Padded Adjustable Harness, 5 Gear Loops
Fits: Waist 87-104cm Legs: 55-70cm
Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
I think you should all go climb some of the many great 21s at Araps and pretend Dramp doesn't exist.
prb just reminded me of Balancing Bunnies. I'd probably blocked it out of my memory. Fortunately for me, Douglas was leading it. It starts a pitch up something I also can't remember, then there's some stretchy, pumping handtraversing out around the arete which was intimidating looking enough, then Douglas disappears out of sight and sadly I can't remember the assortment of classic lines that came out of the void from him, but they were all suggestive that he was having a very exciting time. At one point he did exclaim "Col Reece was a madman!". When I did get out there, I discovered crappy small wires, bodgy rock, an irreversable move or 2 after which you'd hope there was more gear, but actually, there wasn't. Some moss, some steep stuff on rock you'd not really like to have to haul on and in general some climbing that might have been a little above it's given grade, with crappy gear, crappy rock, very healthy moss and masses of exposure.
And perhaps people might like to jump on Reaper or Copyright with their original grades of 20? That would really put Dramp and Christian Crack into perspective.
And strangely enough, I thin Basilisk Direct is a great route, and it's really not hard. Just a bit odd.
On 21/02/2014 prb wrote:
>The biggest sandbags Iíve come across are among those old climbs at Moonarie.
>Black Manís Reach (13) is ridiculous Ė looping out onto the Sweeping Statement
>slab at grade 20 is way easier. But The Black Hole of Calcutta (8) on Checkers
>Wall takes the cake. The aim is survival. Thereís some hard climbing at
>the grade through vegetation and a deadly steep boulder field, a crawl
>along one of those poorly protected scoopy ledge systems you get on Checkers,
>a leap across the void to grab a bush and finally a fully-enclosed tight
>dark chimney that no-oneís been in for decades. We piked it and went up
>the front of the buttress at about grade 16.
I think Black Man's Reach was done by some of my friends that I started climbing with at La Trobe Uni on an inter-varsity climbing meet to Moonarie in 1974(?). Of course they were off-route! They also repeated Black Hole of Calcutta on the same trip and raved about it. None of us knew any better in those days.
There are 43 messages in this topic.
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