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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 7 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 132
Author
Australia's first 9a(35)
ima.seriousyoungliza
8/04/2016
9:32:15 PM
On 8/04/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:
He also came as close
>to doing the full attack mode which became White Ladder as Kim did to Rings.

Not too concerned with anything post Punks anyway ...

Read this

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/bolfa/December-2005.pdf


>If there is to be an extra noted ascent for Rings it should be Nick Sutter.

not relavent cos still 31 and yeeeeaaarrrsss later

>Kims India is the grade it is, he botched it.

No he didnt ...the match stick edge was chipped bigger by someone after he climbed it

Claw thought Cobwebs was 29 and Kim thought it was easy 28

>M grades are not free routes imho.

M is aid ....were establishing when ppl were climbing the free grades ROUGHLY in Australia.....Messner was climbing 25 in 1969 and wrote the book THE 7th GRADE

>More investigation of 29 should be had as per Dave J on Slopen

Slopin and Slime are 28



ima.seriousyoungliza
8/04/2016
9:41:43 PM
From thecrag.com

'...Once considered the hardest route in the country when introduced by Carrigan as Australia's first grade 30. Now considered a tad easier by modern standar...;

Thats Masada

Anyway ...history shows Claw peaked at 28 and Kim peaked at 30/31...during the mid 80s
ima.seriousyoungliza
8/04/2016
9:49:08 PM
Davej confuses difficulty and grade....a grade 20 can be bloody desperate if you hang around placing heaps of runners and pumping out....Daves idea that 32 plus 32 equals 33 is silly so we will erase punks addiction .
widewetandslippery
8/04/2016
9:49:16 PM

Not to concerned post punks, you call the thread australias first 9a? I dont question that kim was king but he never climbed the ring route. Dave J points out his opinion, he has probably climbed more of the pre Punks routes than anyone. With your phantisist love of an icecream man do you hum yourself to sleep with greensleves?
ima.seriousyoungliza
8/04/2016
9:52:20 PM
BAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAA

: D
ima.seriousyoungliza
8/04/2016
9:53:25 PM
.......................................


GRADE 38.......9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37......9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ......9a ..........ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ....Alex Megos....RETIRED EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ]

GRADE 34......8c+............HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33......8c............WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]...

GRADE 32……8b+…….PUNKS IN THE GYM…...1985…...Scheel / Gullich / Moffat
https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/



GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..Kim Carrigan

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27…...DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 25…….OSTLER…...1978…Chris Pieksta…

GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD….1976…Claw & Taylor….

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA 22M2 .....1972......Rick White

GRADE 21......JANICEPTS...21 MO…1966 ... .Ewbank

GRADE 20........PROBABLY EWBANK.....

GRADE 19 .......ZACHERIUS 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 18……..THE ETERNITY aka YORKSHIRE CRACK .....1965.........Ewbank

GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961.....Ohalleran etel…..& .LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962.....Bryden Allen
.................................
ima.seriousyoungliza
8/04/2016
9:59:04 PM
On 8/04/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:

>I dont question that kim was king

I REST MY FAR KIN CASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


...........................................................................

END OF THREAD
...........................................................................
widewetandslippery
8/04/2016
10:10:03 PM
Good night

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=G7pv4Qivn_c
Dave J
9/04/2016
4:07:19 AM
On 8/04/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>On 8/04/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:

>>Kims India is the grade it is, he botched it.
>
>No he didnt ...the match stick edge was chipped bigger by someone after
>he climbed it

the move on india is off a press up to a massive fingerlock ...if you're mucking about with matchstick edges you have yourself a bad sequence. Hard to imagine what was chipped (though there are some suspiciously chipped looking holds higher up on ethiopia)
>
>Claw thought Cobwebs was 29 and Kim thought it was easy 28
>
>ROUGHLY in Australia.....Messner was climbing 25 in 1969 and wrote the
>book THE 7th GRADE
>
>>More investigation of 29 should be had as per Dave J on Slopen
>
>Slopin and Slime are 28

people have suggested 27 for both India and even Masada ... I did pretty most of these with in the space of a few weeks one year (slime time was the only one I failed on) . in order of difficulty from easiest to hardest I would say.

india
masada
slopin' sleazin'
cobwebs
slime time

just my opinion obviously but I did do them all at the same time so I feel like I was pretty well placed to judge the relative difficulty.

maybe claw and moorehead were pushed ahead of that send train.

It has to be said thoguh...the ring route was in a totally different league to any of that (harder than punks in my opinion). If kim had managed to get up that when he nearly did that would have been an internationally significant ascent.
OozeDumbHopeless
9/04/2016
8:13:39 AM
On 8/04/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>.......................................
>
>
>GRADE 38.......9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[
>Australia...NOT YET ]
>
>GRADE 37......9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[
>Australia...NOT YET ]
>
>GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[
>Australia...NOT YET ]
>
>GRADE 35 ......9a ..........ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[
>Australia 2013 ....Alex Megos....RETIRED EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ]
>
>GRADE 34......8c+............HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[
>Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]
>
>GRADE 33......8c............WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[
>Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]...
>
>GRADE 32……8b+…….PUNKS IN THE GYM…...1985…...Scheel / Gullich / Moffat
>https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/
>
>
>
>GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim
>Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz
>
>GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan
>
>GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA
>(1982)…..Kim Carrigan
>
>GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead
>
>GRADE 27…...DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan
>
>GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan
>
>GRADE 25…….OSTLER…...1978…Chris Pieksta…
>
>GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD….1976…Claw & Taylor….
>
>GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..
>
>GRADE 22......VALLHALLA 22M2 .....1972......Rick White
>
>GRADE 21......JANICEPTS...21 MO…1966 ... .Ewbank
>
>GRADE 20........PROBABLY EWBANK.....
>
>GRADE 19 .......ZACHERIUS 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank
>
>GRADE 18……..THE ETERNITY aka YORKSHIRE CRACK .....1965.........Ewbank
>
>GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961.....Ohalleran etel…..& .LIEBEN
>@ Warrumbungles…..1962.....Bryden Allen
>.................................
>

At that rate of progress, we should see a 39 by 2030.
Dave J
10/04/2016
8:16:28 AM
On 8/04/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>Davej confuses difficulty and grade....

Perhaps I am confused. Is this a list of the first routes that were given a new number or a list of routes that actually represented a new level of difficulty? if its the former then perhaps Paul the punk needs more credit for being the first to offer up oz33 for sperm bitches.

>a grade 20 can be bloody desperate
>if you hang around placing heaps of runners and pumping out....Dave's idea
>that 32 plus 32 equals 33 is silly so we will erase punks addiction .

A route would need to be pretty stout before tacking a bit of 32 on the start of it made no difference to the overall level of difficulty. I imagine that pumpy, stand-aroundy, gear-placey 20 you had in mind would jump a grade two at least.
ima.seriousyoungliza
10/04/2016
3:35:09 PM
On 9/04/2016 Dave J wrote:
in order of difficulty from easiest to hardest
>I would say.
>
>india
>masada
>slopin' sleazin'
>cobwebs
>slime time

If youd started in the other order you would probably have strolled up Slime Time and had an epic on India...

>maybe claw and moorehead were pushed ahead of that send train.

MAYBE THEY GOT SIDE TRACKED ...in 1983 Claw was nearly killed by a psycho in America and Moorhead went to Makalu ...

>It has to be said thoguh...the ring route was in a totally different league
>to any of that (harder than punks in my opinion). If kim had managed to
>get up that when he nearly did that would have been an internationally
>significant ascent.

and thats EXACTLY what Kim had scripted for that part of The Carrigan Years ...

......

 Page 7 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 132
There are 132 messages in this topic.

 

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