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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Author
Australia's first 9a(35)

ajfclark
Online Now
19/08/2013
10:03:44 AM
The Red Project at diamond falls has succumbed to Alex Megos and been graded 9a/35: http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/2013/08/r-e-d/

Guess someone should update The Crag...
maxdacat
19/08/2013
10:11:03 AM
wow...phenomenal effort, esp to go so close on Day 1.
onsight
19/08/2013
9:06:04 PM
My blog and some photos of this is here.

Cheers!

ajfclark
Online Now
20/08/2013
9:05:58 AM
Those are the out takes Simon? The ones you've held onto must be pretty awesome.
maxdacat
20/08/2013
9:14:05 AM
So little comment for such a hard send. If he can onsight 9a but this one took 20 tries, can we assume it is at least at the top end of the grade range?
One Day Hero
20/08/2013
2:12:59 PM
On 20/08/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>can we assume it is at least at the top end of the grade
>range?

Will it make you feel better to know that we have a route which is 3 grades below the world standard, but "at the top end of the grade range"?

Never heard the terms 'insecure' or 'cryptic' before? Maybe look em up, number of shots =/= difficulty

E. Wells
20/08/2013
8:07:24 PM
Alex should clean up the bullsh...visionary 9mtr projects at nowra, like those around cheesemonster...does anyone still lay claim to them??!
maxdacat
21/08/2013
11:13:38 AM
On 20/08/2013 One Day Homo wrote:
>On 20/08/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>>can we assume it is at least at the top end of the grade
>>range?
>
>Will it make you feel better to know that we have a route which is 3 grades
>below the world standard, but "at the top end of the grade range"?
>
>Never heard the terms 'insecure' or 'cryptic' before? Maybe look em up,
>number of shots =/= difficulty

I looked them up and saw your name!

Duang Daunk
21/08/2013
11:24:32 AM
On 21/08/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>On 20/08/2013 One Day Homo wrote:
>>On 20/08/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>>>can we assume it is at least at the top end of the grade
>>>range?
>>
>>Will it make you feel better to know that we have a route which is 3
>grades
>>below the world standard, but "at the top end of the grade range"?
>>
>>Never heard the terms 'insecure' or 'cryptic' before? Maybe look em up,
>>number of shots =/= difficulty
>
>I looked them up and saw your name!

I read One Day Hero post as a legitimate question.
Clearly has a statement about an unknown element of any climb that has not been done yet, and approx equates its difficulty with number of attempts.
Shakes head but smiles at the inconguity of the response it got.
He now reapin wot he sowed!

Gd 35 (and from the sounds of it maybe harder), is a good thing for us. Well done to Miller who envisioned, equipped and tried to send it, and congrats to Alex Megos for succeeding.

C'mon Cossey, c'mon, c'mon, has a better ring to it regarding his rumoured attempts than beanie wearing boulderers giving mutual encouragement to each other.
kp
21/08/2013
11:28:31 AM
On 20/08/2013 E. Wells wrote:
>Alex should clean up the bullsh...visionary 9mtr projects at nowra, like
>those around cheesemonster...does anyone still lay claim to them??!

......the arete right of coneheads!!!

grantoss
21/08/2013
1:16:26 PM
On 21/08/2013 kp wrote:
>On 20/08/2013 E. Wells wrote:
>>Alex should clean up the bullsh...visionary 9mtr projects at nowra, like
>>those around cheesemonster...does anyone still lay claim to them??!
>
>......the arete right of coneheads!!!

2nd ascent of married and mortgaged!
or that blank thing to the right of concrete petunias
One Day Hero
21/08/2013
1:43:38 PM
On 21/08/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:

>Gd 35 (and from the sounds of it maybe harder), is a good thing for us.

What the shit is with this idea? How the fuch is it making things better for climbing in Oz? Maybe briefly explain how when Chris Webb finally turned Attack Mode into White Ladder (via about 3 more moves) it made any fuch of difference to climbing in australia..........cause I remember when he did it, and have trouble recalling the drastic change from before to after the wondrous introduction of 8c+

Seriously, you're not ever gonna climb that hard, it doesn't affect you one bit. Now, don't get me started on the total arselickers at Coolum, and the embarrassing shit they've just burdened australian climbing with!

grantoss
21/08/2013
2:00:47 PM
On 21/08/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Seriously, you're not ever gonna climb that hard, it doesn't affect you
>one bit.

next grade step makes shiz all difference but I reckon its pretty cool to see a long-standing hard line go down!

Now, don't get me started on the total arselickers at Coolum,
>and the embarrassing shit they've just burdened australian climbing with!

So, are you gonna elaborate on that?1?

Duang Daunk
21/08/2013
2:05:05 PM
On 21/08/2013 grantoss wrote:
>next grade step makes shiz all difference but I reckon its pretty cool
>to see a long-standing hard line go down!
>
+1 wot he said.

On 21/08/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>What the shit is with this idea? How the fuch is it making things better
>for climbing in Oz? Maybe briefly explain how when Chris Webb finally turned
>Attack Mode into White Ladder (via about 3 more moves) it made any fuch
>of difference to climbing in australia..........cause I remember when he
>did it, and have trouble recalling the drastic change from before to after
>the wondrous introduction of 8c+

Who was banging on about incremental creep not long back? Yeh your context was bolts, but same applies to moves.
Any advance in climbing standard is a good incremental creep, otherwise you will end up like M9 remembering pitons fondly, or worse, getting your nickers in a twist and going all dangerouser or something.

sbm
21/08/2013
2:09:07 PM
On 21/08/2013 grantoss wrote:
>On 21/08/2013 One Day Hero wrote:

>
>Now, don't get me started on the total arselickers at Coolum,
>>and the embarrassing shit they've just burdened australian climbing with!
>
>So, are you gonna elaborate on that?1?

I can't work out what ODH has to be mad about at Coolum either. Precarious access negotiations and victories? Soft grades? I bet it's soft grades.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
21/08/2013
2:36:25 PM
On 21/08/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Any advance in climbing standard is a good incremental creep, otherwise
>you will end up like M9 remembering pitons fondly, or worse, getting your
>nickers in a twist and going all dangerouser or something.
>
I am not sure I want to be around to see what you will fondly remember in your ripe old age Spurtfagalot! ... Though at least (if I read your posts correctly), you are not 'banging on' about a decline in Aussie climbing standards, but rather, a lame attempt to troll us?

gnaguts
23/08/2013
9:42:05 AM
On 21/08/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 21/08/2013 Duang Daunk wrote:
>
>>Gd 35 (and from the sounds of it maybe harder), is a good thing for us.
>
>What the shit is with this idea? How the fuch is it making things better
>for climbing in Oz? Maybe briefly explain how when Chris Webb finally turned
>Attack Mode into White Ladder (via about 3 more moves) it made any fuch
>of difference to climbing in australia..........cause I remember when he
>did it, and have trouble recalling the drastic change from before to after
>the wondrous introduction of 8c+

I don't recall you getting excited about when Wheel of Life was done either.
>
>Seriously, you're not ever gonna climb that hard, it doesn't affect you
>one bit. Now, don't get me started on the total arselickers at Coolum,
>and the embarrassing shit they've just burdened australian climbing with!

Of course it will never affect us. We don't need any motivation to aspire. In fact we flourish quite well in our little climbing backwater, now go away and let me concentrate on my training for, - why am I training again??
Wendy
23/08/2013
11:49:11 AM
I think it's a strange idea that it really has any impact on Australian climbing in general. Unless you follow the Chris Webb parsons school of thought he espoused a few years ago that lack of top end grades was the thing holding back Australian climbers (not to mention his sponsorship). Grade creep? Really, doesn't the average Australian climber still climb around 18? And does it really matter if the average grade of climbers is not so hard? What makes it inherently better that we have "grade creep" anyway? What i think has been happening for quite a few years now is "sport creep" and I think that's a lot more noticable and detracts from australian climbing more than any "grade creep". So that there is a loss of skills for trad climbing and a lack of traffic on classic trad routes and crag such that they overgrow. Or people get themselves out of their depth and have accidents and create dramas for rescuers and the whole community.

The other thing I wonder about is he tore apart a bunch of hard routes in the Blueys, and mentions only 2 down here - why didn't he tear apart Taipan, lower taipan, Sandinista Wall or uncle charlie in the same way? This is a roundabout way of saying Australia still has plenty of hard routes, and those outside of the Blueys don't get that much traffic, which i suspect is related to the styles being more diverse or involving trad gear or run outs. I have no idea what else this guy has done worldwide, but in general, i think "friendly" hard routes get a lot more traffic, which might also be related to that "sport creep" syndrome.

ajfclark
Online Now
23/08/2013
12:46:15 PM
I'd call ticking Somalia in 2 sessions(or a session and a shot really) "tearing up Uncle Charlie".

He also did Wheel of Life in 2 sessions. There's more about his Grampians exploits elsewhere on here or perhaps in Vertical Life I think.
widewetandslippery
23/08/2013
12:56:41 PM
On 21/08/2013 kp wrote:
>On 20/08/2013 E. Wells wrote:
>>Alex should clean up the bullsh...visionary 9mtr projects at nowra, like
>>those around cheesemonster...does anyone still lay claim to them??!
>
>......the arete right of coneheads!!!

Has the Conehead direct line been looked at recently. There are definitely some hollow sections in the cliff covereed by a thin layer of surface rock. If these were smashed out with say a block splitter there would be holds and the line would probably go. Dont think of it as chipping, just improving on nature.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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