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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 5 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 134
Author
Australia's first 9a(35)

rodw
30-Mar-2016
6:26:57 PM
Bolted by a visionary
Jayford4321
30-Mar-2016
6:43:18 PM
On 30/03/2016 rodw wrote:
>Bolted by a visionary
It'll all B crap (like simey's hot room), after the first trad 37 is put up.
Lee C
30-Mar-2016
6:43:52 PM
On 29/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>18 ?
>33
>34

33 Grey Area, May 1999, Garth
34 White Ladder, Pretty sure it was 2004, Chris Webb
ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Mar-2016
6:59:53 PM
On 30/03/2016 Lee C wrote:
>34 White Ladder, Pretty sure it was 2004, Chris Webb

ok .. and WL is the very short extension to Aus second 32... attack mode ....yes ? ...
ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Mar-2016
7:03:16 PM
On 30/03/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>(If Joe went to Tassie after Qld, then this was also after his Insomnia
>23 FA)


HUH ???....do u mean Henry ???

anyway well have to take closs and kinipec at face value ...and give 23 to Lew ... but acknowledge Henrys contribution at this level also ...tho the frog boys and goyls wont like rewitting the history section of their guide ...
Lee C
30-Mar-2016
7:27:41 PM
On 30/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>On 30/03/2016 Lee C wrote:
>>34 White Ladder, Pretty sure it was 2004, Chris Webb
>
>ok .. and WL is the very short extension to Aus second 32... attack
>mode ....yes ? ...

indeed!
First 34 was claimed by Garth with Grey Area but it didn't make the grade. As was the case in 2004 when Ben suggested 34 for Mechanical Animals.

Makes me wonder how many would-be 'firsts at the grade' there has been in Aus climbing history... A lot at araps spring to mind!
ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Mar-2016
8:26:48 PM
>>> A lot at araps spring to mind!

Kim claimed 28 with Yesterday and Fox

Kim claimed 29 with India

Kim claimed 30 with Masada

BUT THATS OK !!! ......ya gotta understand wot Kim was all about ...Kim wanted Araps to be the cutting edge of global grade pushing....and that didnt really happen until Punks.... WHY ??? ...because in 1979 the hardest routes in Aus were 27...in that year Tony Yaniro completed his 2 year project of freeing Grand Illusion @ 29/30....so THATS probably wot Kim was trying to equalise in a hurry at Araps ...


OK ... HERES THE UPDATED SH#T LIST !!!!....still room for corrections and additions..

..........................................

GRADE 35....................RETIRED EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ....2013...Alex Megos

GRADE 34...................WHITE LADDER....2004....Chris Webb

GRADE 33.................... GREY AREA......1999....Garth Miller

GRADE 32…………….PUNKS IN THE GYM…1985…Scheel / Gullich /Moffat
https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/

GRADE 31……......SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..Kim Carrigan

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27….DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 26………PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 25…….OSTLER….mid 1970s…Chris Pieksta….UNDERTAKER….Claw & Java

GRADE 24…..COUNTRY ROAD…mid 1970s…Claw & Taylor….

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..INSOMNIA & DELIVERANCE & KARMA SUTRA...1975...Henry Barber

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA & KRAKEN.....1972ish....Rick White & Bryden Allen

GRADE 21.....JANICEPTS…60s-70s... .Ewbank & Claw

GRADE 20.......GEMINI ? ...1966………….SOLOMON ?....Joe Friend

GRADE 19 .......BA says : ‘… Ewbank's Blue Mountain guide:
Zacherius 19,M1 on Narrow Neck was done on 10/11/1964…’

GRADE 18………?

GRADE 17……….NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961…& .LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962

........................................
Ithomas
30-Mar-2016
8:41:18 PM
On 30/03/2016 kieranl wrote:
>BA, you're confusing Ian Lewis and Ian Thomas (Humzoo).
>Ian Lewis, who I haven't met, was referred to as "Lew"
>
>ps Nice China photos btw

Jeez Kieran, thanks for that. I would have quite happily traded on Lew's repution for years to come! By the way, I know what became of Lew and where he is now! Serious amount of mis-information and confusion in this thread, but considering my first sentence, I think I will let it pass.
'Zoo
ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Mar-2016
8:47:34 PM
>>>Serious amount of mis-information and confusion in this thread

TOMMO !!!!! YA GOTTA HELP US OUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A CORRECT HISTORY OF AUS CLIMBING DEPENDS ON U !!!!!!!!!!!!!

LEW ..........NOW ????????????


DID HE REALLY DO THE FIRST 23 IN AUS ???????????????
ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Mar-2016
8:59:51 PM
Dammit...hes gone ....oh well ....weve made a lot of progress ...and challenged a few myths ...

deep Van Winkle
31-Mar-2016
1:47:29 AM
Well, well ! My first post-inaugural post and it's taken over a year since joining. Asked Joe about Albatross 23 tonight and he replied that although having been there and at least seen the line, he couldn't remember much about it but that if he had done something significant like actually freeing it, then he would have retained the memory.
Some of you may be interested to hear the circumstances which led me to meet Joe who seemingly hasn't climbed for several decades and whom i don't remember actually ever meeting in the 70s or 80s. I was at Bowen Mt in the lower Blue Mtns visiting my father-in-law and his partner, a lifelong bush regenerator and ecologist, who introduced me to this Joe character who was staying at their place for a while and researching certain east coast rainforest species like "Red Cedar". Sniffing each other out by dropping botanical nomenclature in a similar way climbers will, with varying subtlety, quickly ascertain on meeting a new unknown climber whether they're a bumbly or hardcore, talk turned to lithophilic Australian Dendrobium orchids and words or terms he used must have aroused suspicions, so I asked if he'd ever climbed or similar. On admitting he used to climb a bit I might have asked "What, like a bit of abseiling or top-roping in the scouts or something?"
He replied "Well I wrote this book called 'Classic Climbs of Australia' ". Penny dropped.
"What about you" he asked. "Ermm, did a few 2nd or 3rd ascents of some of your big mid 70s Moonarie routes with Col Reece, maybe removing the odd aid. Some of your pitches on Buffalo north face".
That was about a year ago, not too long after my comeback and have met Joe a few times since.
ima.seriousyoungliza
31-Mar-2016
2:14:20 PM
On 31/03/2016 deep Van Winkle wrote:
> Asked Joe about Albatross 23 tonight and he replied that although
>having been there and at least seen the line, he couldn't remember much
>about it but that if he had done something significant like actually freeing
>it, then he would have retained the memory.

OK ...can u ask Joe nicely wot he knows about the first grade 20 in Aus....Solomon ?....Gemini ?...
ima.seriousyoungliza
31-Mar-2016
2:16:07 PM
& BA .... BA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ...can u have another look in Ewbanks guide and sus out the first 18 ...
Jayford4321
31-Mar-2016
5:53:37 PM
On 31/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>& BA .... BA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ...can u have another look in Ewbanks
>guide and sus out the first 18 ...

It won't be relevant.
Did I tell you I am Aboriginal?
Not in any white fella guide, but my inheritance by word of mouth informs me that my great grandfather put up the first today-grade-18 at Bungonia.
It is incidental that he was after bats as tucker at the time.
Since others benefited from his downclimb first, tucker gathering, then reascention, it became known in our folklore as the Tucker Route.
As far as I know, the whiteys have since documented it as a cave an not a climb!!

Prolly won't make Ur list though, but we are starting to get used to that.
We'll change history though when next generation rewrite tha imaseriosinadeqate book.
ima.seriousyoungliza
31-Mar-2016
6:32:39 PM
YOU STU....PID BOY !!!!

; D

Thanks 4 tha leed...I just lernt that theres a routr called Tucker Time 33 by Mr Zac...
ima.seriousyoungliza
31-Mar-2016
6:51:17 PM
GRADE 38.....9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37....9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ....9a ...ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ...& it took another German to do it ! ( Alex Megos @ RED ) ]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)

............................................................

Ben Cossey on ACTION DIRECT....35

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI5rNmYNpuY

..........................................................

GRADE 34...8c+........HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33...8c......WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]

GRADE 32……8b+……….PUNKS IN THE GYM…1985…Scheel / Gullich /Moffat
https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/



GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..Kim Carrigan

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27….DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 26………PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 25…….OSTLER….mid 1970s…Chris Pieksta….UNDERTAKER….Claw & Java

GRADE 24…..COUNTRY ROAD…mid 1970s…Claw & Taylor….

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..INSOMNIA & DELIVERANCE & KARMA SUTRA...1975...Henry Barber

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA & KRAKEN.....1972ish....Rick White & Bryden Allen

GRADE 21.....JANICEPTS…60s-70s... .Ewbank & Claw

GRADE 20.......GEMINI ? ...1966………….SOLOMON ?....Joe Friend

GRADE 19 .......BA says : ‘… Ewbank's Blue Mountain guide:
Zacherius 19,M1 on Narrow Neck was done on 10/11/1964…’

GRADE 18………?

GRADE 17……….NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961…& .LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962

ima.seriousyoungliza
31-Mar-2016
8:36:43 PM
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

HENRY BARBER GOT VERY PISSED OFF WHEN HE REALIZED HE HADN'T INCREASED THE GRADES IN AUSTRALIA ...

BA
1-Apr-2016
11:33:36 AM
On 31/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>& BA .... BA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ...can u have another look in Ewbanks
>guide and sus out the first 18 ...

It'd be either Butterfly 0n 31/5/64 by Ewbank and Bryden or Skeleton Grooves put up in May '64 by Ewbank, Allan Gordon and Bryden. Both climbs are at Narrow Neck.

But I wouldn't trust anything I write after confusing "Lew" with "Zoo". I blame it on jetlag and a head cold.
Jayford4321
1-Apr-2016
12:25:39 PM
On 31/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>YOU STU....PID BOY !!!!
>
> ; D
>
Boy? RU a myscoginist like rabbit 2?
Don't worry bout it 2 much though as simes will prolly still let U hold his rope for him, but if U fail that test then Ur history.
ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Apr-2016
12:45:52 PM
:D

LOOKS LIKE I FINALLY OUT-TROLLED U

: D

 Page 5 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 134
There are 134 messages in this topic.

 

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