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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 6 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 134
Author
Australia's first 9a(35)
ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Apr-2016
12:47:46 PM
On 1/04/2016 BA wrote:

>It'd be either Butterfly 0n 31/5/64 by Ewbank and Bryden or Skeleton Grooves
>put up in May '64 by Ewbank, Allan Gordon and Bryden. Both climbs are at
>Narrow Neck.



BUTTERFLY OR SKELETON GROOVES

That pretty much leaves Grade 20....Anyone ?

CHEERS

: )

.......................................
ima.seriousyoungliza
1-Apr-2016
12:51:20 PM
.

GRADE 38.....9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37....9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ....9a ...ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ...& it took another German to do it ! ( Alex Megos @ RED ) ]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)

............................................................

Ben Cossey on ACTION DIRECT....35

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI5rNmYNpuY

..........................................................

GRADE 34...8c+........HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33...8c......WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]

GRADE 32……8b+……….PUNKS IN THE GYM…1985…Scheel / Gullich /Moffat
https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/



GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..Kim Carrigan

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27…...DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 25…….OSTLER….mid 1970s…Chris Pieksta….UNDERTAKER….Claw & Java

GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD…mid 1970s…Claw & Taylor….

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..INSOMNIA & DELIVERANCE & KARMA SUTRA...1975...Henry Barber

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA & KRAKEN.....1972ish....Rick White & Bryden Allen

GRADE 21......JANICEPTS…60s-70s... .Ewbank & Claw

GRADE 20.......GEMINI ? ...1966………….SOLOMON ?....Joe Friend

GRADE 19 .......Zacherius 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 18……..BUTTERFLY & SKELETON GROOVES..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961…& .LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962


.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1-Apr-2016
8:21:04 PM
On 30/03/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>On 30/03/2016 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>(If Joe went to Tassie after Qld, then this was also after his Insomnia
>>23 FA)
>
>
>HUH ???....do u mean Henry ???
>
Probably.
I claim the BA defence yer'onour...
>But I wouldn't trust anything I write after confusing "Lew" with "Zoo". I blame it on jetlag and a head cold.
If it's good enough for him, then it'll do for me too...
;-)
ima.seriousyoungliza
3-Apr-2016
12:42:03 AM
>>>If it's good enough for him, then it'll do for me too...

you sound like Ronnie Corbett ...
ima.seriousyoungliza
3-Apr-2016
12:51:09 AM
On 1/04/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>That pretty much leaves Grade 20....Anyone ?
>
>CHEERS
>
>: )

After alot of fark king the internet dog...I found what is probablly the home of Australias first grade 20...

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=343

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

its a thing called QUITS... 20 ....1966.... Ewbank................route #15

The big corner in the middle is Ewbank's Solomon 20 ...which JoeFriend freed in 1973

.......................................


GRADE 38.....9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37....9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ....9a ...ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ...& it took another German to do it ! ( Alex Megos @ RED ) ]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)

............................................................

Ben Cossey on ACTION DIRECT....35

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI5rNmYNpuY

..........................................................

GRADE 34...8c+........HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33...8c......WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]

GRADE 32……8b+……….PUNKS IN THE GYM…1985…Scheel / Gullich /Moffat
https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/



GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..Kim Carrigan

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27…...DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 25…….OSTLER….mid 1970s…Chris Pieksta….UNDERTAKER….Claw & Java

GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD….1976…Claw & Taylor….

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..INSOMNIA & DELIVERANCE & KARMA SUTRA...1975...Henry Barber

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA & KRAKEN.....1972....Rick White & Bryden Allen

GRADE 21......JANICEPTS...21 MO…1966 ... .Ewbank

GRADE 20........QUITS ...1966...Ewbank

GRADE 19 .......ZACHERIUS 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 18……..BUTTERFLY & SKELETON GROOVES..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961…& .LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962.....Bryden Allen

................................................................
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Federation+Peak

http://www.brydenallen.com/My_Exploits_in_the_Warrumbungles.html


Image and video hosting by TinyPic

.....................................................................THE MIGHTY LIEBEN


ima.seriousyoungliza
3-Apr-2016
1:38:44 AM
OK ...so in the final analysis rationalisation synthesis.... John Ewbank and Kim Carrigan rate as the main grade pushers in Australian climbing ...

....Claw gets bragging-rights for cleaning up Janicpts BUT the 21 climbing level was already established by Ewbank.....PLUS ....Claw's effort was in 1974 ... 2 years after Valhalla and Kraken......AND..... Pieksta beat Claw & Java at grade 25 with Ostler ......So technically speaking ... Claws claim to fame with grading was solving the crux for Nic Taylor on Country Road .....

....Lew gets a big mention for up-staging Henry Barber @ grade 23....and Mark Moorhead gets a big mention for giving Kim a run for his money @ grade 28......and Alex gets a mention for casting a shadow over the Cossey bros @ grade 35 ...if anyone deserved the first grade 35 in Australia ,LeeC ...it was you ...






Dave J
3-Apr-2016
6:38:24 AM
On 3/04/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>....Claw gets bragging-rights for cleaning up Janicpts BUT the 21 climbing
>level was already established by Ewbank.....PLUS ....Claw's effort was
>in 1974 ... 2 years after Valhalla and Kraken......AND..... Pieksta beat
>Claw & Java at grade 25 with Ostler ......So technically speaking ... Claws
>claim to fame with grading was solving the crux for Nic Taylor on Country
>Road ......and Mark Moorhead gets a big mention for giving Kim a run for his money @
>grade 28......and Alex gets a mention for casting a shadow over the Cossey
>bros @ grade 35 ...if anyone deserved the first grade 35 in Australia ,LeeC
>...it was you ...
>
in terms of difficulty (rather than grade given), Claw's 83 Slopin' Sleazin' was harder than either India and Masada. Moorhead and Claw were both years ahead of Kim at that point.
ima.seriousyoungliza
3-Apr-2016
4:08:40 PM
On 3/04/2016 Dave J wrote:
> Moorhead and Claw were both years
>ahead of Kim at that point.

Dave...mate...the reality is that ' ... at that point ...' both Moorhead & Claw were being swept along in the slip-stream of the CARRIGAN FREIGHT TRAIN....


deep Van Winkle
3-Apr-2016
9:51:00 PM
Admittedly i hail from the deep south with limited Blue Mts knowledge but both your link to the The Australian Route Register and my 2010 Carter guide have Quits as a M. Law FA from 1978. It looks like your Ewbank 1966 attribution is actually that for The Second Last Act, now 22 M2 and originally 17 M4 in Ewbank's '67 guide, which lies immediately above it in the Route Register!

deep Van Winkle
3-Apr-2016
10:04:42 PM
Actually Ewbank's 1967 Guide has a third grade 18 from 1964.
Glory-Nut 18 1964 Bryden Allen & Eric Saxby. I'm probably seeing Bryden at the gym this Tues so I'll ask him if he has any recollection of whether it was done before or after Ewbank's May '64 climbs.
According to my 2010 Carter guide Butterfly was freed later and retains the same grade.
Skeleton Grooves is now 17 M1 and Glory-Nut remains 18.
ima.seriousyoungliza
4-Apr-2016
11:04:36 AM
STREWTH !!! ...OK can u ask Bryden wot was the first 18 and first 20 please

Cheers
ima.seriousyoungliza
4-Apr-2016
11:26:40 AM
On 3/04/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>OK ...so in the final analysis rationalisation synthesis.... John Ewbank
>and Kim Carrigan rate as the main grade pushers in Australian climbing


'...Kim Carrigan, Mark Baker, and Malcolm Matheson – three truly exceptional rock climbers. ......To witness how far Australian climbing has developed is quite amazing, and to be remembered for my contribution is very touching....' ( John Ewbank ,1993 )

http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2014/03/john-ewbank-ironmongers-of-the-dreamtime/

ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Apr-2016
1:40:58 PM
Claws pm box is full...

SIGH ...

CLAAAAAWWWWW !!!!

' ....recipients mail box is full ...'

HERE IT IS !!!!

....................................

Cmon mate

I musta inceased sales of ur book 100 fold

: D

PLEASE !!!!

Which was first 18 19 20 in Aus ????

............................................................

ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Apr-2016
2:40:41 PM
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

shortman
6-Apr-2016
2:53:07 PM


Ha, I actually get that you crazy koot. You're a funny fella ima.seriousyoungliza...
stugang
6-Apr-2016
3:21:14 PM
Thanks
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Apr-2016
4:22:09 PM
OK....getting there ....

Seems first 18 was Ewbank on THE ETERNITY aka YORKSHIRE CRACK....1965

Some people have a hangup about what is a free ascent .... Ewbank top roped it in 1965 and Moore led it in 1967 ....

solo... top rope.... led ....its stilll 18 and free

ALSO to keep Dave J happy we will acknowledge PUNKS ADDICTION in 1998 as a sort of 33 ....but Garth gets the definite cred in 1999 wiith GREY AREA


Seems ZACHARIUS 19M1 is a bit of a Punks in the Gym cos it was climbed a year before Eternity 18................AND some think MORFFYD was first 19 but that was 1968


STILL GOT NO IDEA OF THE FIRST 20
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Apr-2016
4:40:46 PM
.......................................


GRADE 38.......9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37......9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ......9a ..........ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ....Alex Megos....RETIRED EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ]

GRADE 34......8c+............HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33......8c............WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]...also....PUNKS ADDICTION ....1998 ....DaveJ ...' 33 '....

GRADE 32……8b+…….PUNKS IN THE GYM…...1985…...Scheel / Gullich / Moffat
https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/



GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..Kim Carrigan

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27…...DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 25…….OSTLER…...1978…Chris Pieksta…

GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD….1976…Claw & Taylor….

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA 22M2 .....1972......Rick White

GRADE 21......JANICEPTS...21 MO…1966 ... .Ewbank

GRADE 20........?????????????????

GRADE 19 .......ZACHERIUS 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 18……..THE ETERNITY aka YORKSHIRE CRACK .....1965.........Ewbank

GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961.....Ohalleran etel…..& .LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962.....Bryden Allen

..........................................
widewetandslippery
8-Apr-2016
5:30:23 PM
On 30/03/2016 rodw wrote:
>Bolted by a visionary

The flake was bolted as an envisioned 29.

Uncle Bob aka golden boy should take full credit for the vision. He found and bolted the start traverse and boulder finish. He also came as close to doing the full attack mode which became White Ladder as Kim did to Rings.

If there is to be an extra noted ascent for Rings it should be Nick Sutter.

Kims India is the grade it is, he botched it.

M* grades are not free routes imho.

More investigation of 29 should be had as per Dave J on Slopen
widewetandslippery
8-Apr-2016
5:32:29 PM
What a list of the hardest firsts by australians, free and also solo.

 Page 6 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 134
There are 134 messages in this topic.

 

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