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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
Author
(K)not on my anchor

aikibujin
4/08/2005
10:50:36 PM
On 4/08/2005 Rich wrote:
>why don't u just buy a length of sling and tie figure eights in the ends..
>same result, heaps cheaper

I don't quite understand your suggestion (I'm used to different terminology), do you mean to buy a length of sling not sewn in a loop (webbing?), and tie two figure eight on a bight at the ends?

Hatman
5/08/2005
7:16:27 AM
On 4/08/2005 Rich wrote:
>why don't u just buy a length of sling and tie figure eights in the ends..
>same result, heaps cheaper

As we have been talking about, the weight and hassle saveings. Also the snagability.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/08/2005
10:17:49 AM
On 4/08/2005 aikibujin wrote:
>I don't quite understand your suggestion (I'm used to different terminology),
>do you mean to buy a length of sling not sewn in a loop (webbing?), and
>tie two figure eight on a bight at the ends?
Yes, thats what I would say Rich meant.
Fig8 knots in webbing are generally not recommended due to their propensity to slip ~> potential undoing.
I have seen it done but not for critical load bearing components (eg webbing aiders in early days were sometimes tied).
If one was to do this I would suggest having plenty of tail, tie a backup knot and perhaps sewing the tail to the sling bartack fashion.
... You would then have a web-o-lette !
rightarmbad
5/08/2005
12:17:48 PM
Web-o-lettes rule. Lighter, smaller and quicker to set up. The only down fall is that the 2 outside legs are single not double and are therefore weaker. When an overhand is tied to create the power point then there can be no extension, no need for clove hitches.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/08/2005
1:11:26 PM
>When an overhand is tied to create the power point

I use a fig 9; though I also use a (very) long cordalette which lends itself to having rope used-up in the knot.

I use the fig 9 because it is much easier to untie after loading (particularly in spectra).
Qualifiers: *I regularly put heinous loads on cordalettes when hauling during aid climbs.
*I found fig 8's becoming difficult to untie sometimes.

I would not like to spend the time it would take to untie an overhand knot once it had been loaded if I could avoid it.

Nick Kaz
5/08/2005
1:21:03 PM
If you dont know a fig 9 and have a fig 8 you want to be able to loosen after a hugeass load, clip a snappy through the knot before loading it, then when the knot needs undoing take out the snappy and *bam* instanty broken knot!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5/08/2005
1:54:22 PM
Good tip Nick, though I would then have concerns about bumblies possibly connecting to the wrong spot on the powerpoint in a non-supervised scenario.

Nick Kaz
5/08/2005
3:19:07 PM
Good point Mr M8, I guess you just have to tell them where to, and then then watch them clip in then explain why its there. After all they are bumblies and are most likely watching what you do to learn for themselfs, no harm in them learning a trick or two...

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
There are 28 messages in this topic.

 

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