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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Guide to placing carrot bolts :)

Benjenga
20/05/2013
6:54:26 PM
Just found this bolting guide that is so funny and full of mistakes it almost must be a joke. Now I thought I have seen a fair selection of different bolts in my travels but some new ones for me.
South Africa now that somewhere I want to climb.... Not.

http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/01/permanent-protection-bolting-basic-overview/

On a better note has anyone ever used the pigtail loweroffs in Australia? I used a lot in Croatia and used in conjunction with a lower quick clip biner they are quick and seem safe.
Thoughts?

ajfclark
20/05/2013
7:31:34 PM
This has been posted here before but I Just noticed that key hole hanger clipped with the wire gate is upside down, isn't it?

Macciza
22/05/2013
10:15:48 PM
It's not meant to be a 'Guide to placing carrots' - it's a presentation, an overview of options. And a pretty good one at that except for it's obvious lack of finer carrot details, but it does not set out to provide them in the first place, it's not a guide . . .

Care to elucidate on what you find so funny and mistaken in the document?
kieranl
22/05/2013
11:17:57 PM
On 20/05/2013 Benjenga wrote:
>South Africa now that somewhere I want to climb.... Not.
>
Why not? I haven't got there yet but it's been on my list for 30+ years. Brilliant trad and sport and complex, even dangerous society.
Hung out with a bunch of south africans in Chamonix in 83, including Ed February, Chris Lomax, Greg Lacey. Greg was dodging callup to the army, Ed was there because they'd twisted the rules to get him on the trip. Good people with wild tales.


This isn't South Africa. It's Greg Lacey (climbing) and Chris Lomax at an 11th (i think) century castle near Finale Ligure (Italy) in 1983. Laura O'Brien(US) obscured in background. Greg died a couple of weeks later while descending after an ascent of Les Droites.

Benjenga
23/05/2013
3:17:40 AM
On 22/05/2013 Macciza wrote:
>It's not meant to be a 'Guide to placing carrots' - it's a presentation,
>an overview of options. And a pretty good one at that except for it's obvious
>lack of finer carrot details, but it does not set out to provide them in
>the first place, it's not a guide . . .
>
>Care to elucidate on what you find so funny and mistaken in the document?

It was more a joke then anything else... Considering the lack of worthwhile 'How to Bolt' info at the time this released I am sure that people have used this as a guide.

As for funny, I found the comments about Aussie climbers funny.
The underside bolt hanger.
What looks likes gal booker rod for the stud anchor.
Number 9 of the bolting ethics.... Enough said.
technogeekery
23/05/2013
2:26:26 PM
On 20/05/2013 Benjenga wrote:
>South Africa now that somewhere I want to climb.... Not.

You are easily put off.....

South African rock climbing is awesome - everything from super hard modern sport / bouldering through to huge expanses of unclimbed or rarely climbed trad adventure routes, in some of the best scenery in the world.

nmonteith
24/05/2013
8:39:48 AM
I've never seen so much wholesale bolting of splitter cracks as I saw in Waterfall Boven in SA. Generally the climbing in South Africa was great - certainly worth a visit. Stunning scenery everywhere. But the crime/deadly animals did get tiresome pretty quickly.

skink
24/05/2013
9:14:02 AM
On 24/05/2013 nmonteith wrote:

>But the crime/deadly animals did get tiresome pretty quickly.

You ran into deadly animals outside a game reserve or zoo - where?

nmonteith
24/05/2013
10:11:36 AM
On 24/05/2013 skink wrote:
>You ran into deadly animals outside a game reserve or zoo - where?

St Lucia up north. Signs everywhere saying "beware of hippos, crocodiles and leopards". And yes, we did see them all! Some of the climbing areas we visited were inside game reserves - for example the Mt Everest crag. We managed to kill our car fob with a leaking Camel Back and got stuck in the park after dark. A bit scary....

shortman
24/05/2013
10:23:43 AM
On 24/05/2013 skink wrote:
>On 24/05/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>
>>But the crime/deadly animals did get tiresome pretty quickly.
>
>You ran into deadly animals outside a game reserve or zoo - where?

South Africa, Botswana, Mozambique, most of those southern african countries, as soon as you get outside the major cities then the (death) animals are thriving. Zambia and Zimbabwe are the exception, those places have been destroyed. Although baboons still run rampant in some areas.

skink
24/05/2013
10:34:23 AM
I stand corrected, I guess things can change a lot in 12 years...
uwhp510
24/05/2013
11:14:03 AM
On 23/05/2013 Benjenga wrote:
>Considering the lack of worthwhile
>'How to Bolt' info at the time this released I am sure that people have
>used this as a guide.

Actually the very first line in that document is;

"Good safe bolting requires training & experience. This is a overview, not a training manual. Find someone who has bolted some good routes to show you the finer points of bolting."

technogeekery
24/05/2013
11:26:39 AM
Waterfall Boven was developed as a sport area, mostly because it has very few cracks and the main lines are big overhanging face routes. Lovely spot, massive problem with crime. Not a carrot to be found :-)

Yes, potentially deadly animals everywhere in SA, but v few climbers ever get eaten. Adds to the charm / adventure / fun

The crime levels are far more problematic. Best to go in a group, with locals, to most areas.
bones
24/05/2013
11:34:20 AM
On 24/05/2013 technogeekery wrote:
>The crime levels are far more problematic. Best to go in a group, with
>locals, to most areas.

Or go across the border to Namibia, where you can safely pitch a tent alone in the middle of nowhere with fantastic granite (and apparently good sandstone) climbing
CL
7/07/2013
7:44:18 PM
On 22/05/2013 kieranl wrote:
>On 20/05/2013 Benjenga wrote:
>>South Africa now that somewhere I want to climb.... Not.
>>
>Why not? I haven't got there yet but it's been on my list for 30+ years.
>Brilliant trad and sport and complex, even dangerous society.
>Hung out with a bunch of south africans in Chamonix in 83, including Ed
>February, Chris Lomax, Greg Lacey. Greg was dodging callup to the army,
>Ed was there because they'd twisted the rules to get him on the trip. Good
>people with wild tales.

>
>This isn't South Africa. It's Greg Lacey (climbing) and Chris Lomax at
>an 11th (i think) century castle near Finale Ligure (Italy) in 1983. Laura
>O'Brien(US) obscured in background. Greg died a couple of weeks later while
>descending after an ascent of Les Droites.

Ha Ha thats real funny to see that picture .Greg and I had come of the Freney Pillar on Mont Blanc after climbing for week in really crap weather . We were enjoying the Italian sunshine. South Africa rocks for climbing and if you havent been here yet ,you need to get on it .Good cheap climbing trip.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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