Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

DMM: Viper Size L (2013 model as shown) Padded Adjustable Harness, 5 Gear Loops Fits: Waist 87-104cm Legs: 55-70cm   $89.00
26% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Anchoring a ledge to one bolt....

Miguel75
15/04/2013
10:41:07 AM
What are people's thoughts around hanging a ledge of just one (solid?) bolt?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/post-up-pictures-of-you-big-wall-bivy-set-up/108088179

Being a big wall theorist means there's always lots of information to get lost in. Mark Hudon has some great info on his 'Hudonpanos' site and has some great pics too;

http://www.hudonpanos.com

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
15/04/2013
11:58:48 AM
On 15/04/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>What are people's thoughts around hanging a ledge of just one (solid?) bolt?
>

When I read the title I first thought you were taking the piss about belay setups, heh, heh, heh; ... but after checking the links, I offer my paltry experience for consideration.

If given a choice/opportunity I like to anchor my ledge off at least two bomber pieces (preferably 3), ie kind of the same mentality as a belay...

Reality offers pros and cons in my experience, for example;
* Often wherever a ledge is set up, invariably it is a belay location, so a three point anchor is justified.
* Sometimes pro opportunities are limited or poor. In this case a matrix can sometimes help.
* Rarely, only a single bolt is on offer as an anchor.

If I was reduced to only having a single bolt, my head tells me that it is likely sufficient, but my heart tells me it isn't(!) ;.. and so I would use whatever lead rope is available to clove hitch to at least the last couple, or upcoming pieces, of good pro on the line in question, in order to have a worry free nights sleep.

I figure that remaining tied in, etc, that if a storm caused the portaledge to impact on a single point anchor enough for it to 'fail', then (just like a lead fall), the whole sorry mess would still be dangling off whatever were deemed the backup pieces.

I also like to use a locking krab for the main portaledge attachment.

The link provided, emphasises separation of a wall type hanging belay for bags, ledge etc to provide uncluttered organisation. This is excellent advice if it can be achieved, but a vertical crack tends to inhibit this and requires a degree of going up and down to set up and pack up.

I must show you my patented variation of the cordalette system for separating haul/ledge/people off three point anchors sometime...

Ben_E
15/04/2013
1:44:38 PM
^^^^
I'd generally echo all of that.

I'd rather have the ledge equalized off two, but if we're talking 3/8'' bolts in granite I'd be probably be happy enough for the weight to be on one.

I'd still want to be independently tied into a second and/or third bolt (or additional gear of some sort) via the lead line at all times, though.

There are 3 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints