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General Climbing Discussion

Anchoring a ledge to one bolt....

10:41:07 AM
What are people's thoughts around hanging a ledge of just one (solid?) bolt?

Being a big wall theorist means there's always lots of information to get lost in. Mark Hudon has some great info on his 'Hudonpanos' site and has some great pics too;

11:58:48 AM
On 15/04/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>What are people's thoughts around hanging a ledge of just one (solid?) bolt?

When I read the title I first thought you were taking the piss about belay setups, heh, heh, heh; ... but after checking the links, I offer my paltry experience for consideration.

If given a choice/opportunity I like to anchor my ledge off at least two bomber pieces (preferably 3), ie kind of the same mentality as a belay...

Reality offers pros and cons in my experience, for example;
* Often wherever a ledge is set up, invariably it is a belay location, so a three point anchor is justified.
* Sometimes pro opportunities are limited or poor. In this case a matrix can sometimes help.
* Rarely, only a single bolt is on offer as an anchor.

If I was reduced to only having a single bolt, my head tells me that it is likely sufficient, but my heart tells me it isn't(!) ;.. and so I would use whatever lead rope is available to clove hitch to at least the last couple, or upcoming pieces, of good pro on the line in question, in order to have a worry free nights sleep.

I figure that remaining tied in, etc, that if a storm caused the portaledge to impact on a single point anchor enough for it to 'fail', then (just like a lead fall), the whole sorry mess would still be dangling off whatever were deemed the backup pieces.

I also like to use a locking krab for the main portaledge attachment.

The link provided, emphasises separation of a wall type hanging belay for bags, ledge etc to provide uncluttered organisation. This is excellent advice if it can be achieved, but a vertical crack tends to inhibit this and requires a degree of going up and down to set up and pack up.

I must show you my patented variation of the cordalette system for separating haul/ledge/people off three point anchors sometime...

1:44:38 PM
I'd generally echo all of that.

I'd rather have the ledge equalized off two, but if we're talking 3/8'' bolts in granite I'd be probably be happy enough for the weight to be on one.

I'd still want to be independently tied into a second and/or third bolt (or additional gear of some sort) via the lead line at all times, though.

There are 3 messages in this topic.


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