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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 71
Guidebook: Grampians Climbing: Sport Crags
6:53:24 PM
kp, how much has that got to do with the grades you're climbing though? As a crap climber, I really don't care how good Serpentine is, because I'm a long way from even thinking about getting on it. To say that Weaveworld is the only world-class at the grade sport route at grade 25 or less in the entire Grampians? Don't get me wrong, I think it's a useful addition to my guidebook collection, but I'll be treating it as having a 3-star system.
7:25:48 PM
Really, weaveworld got 4 stars? Now, I love the gallery, it's great fun, in a beautiful spot but a trip to the Red will quickly demonstrate it's a tiny little cliff of that genre.

Life gets a little difficult when talking about world class sport routes, because KP has half a point - sport routes lend themselves to being better at harder grades. I haven't been to the lost world, but malcolm raves about some 23 and 25 there. And to be perfectly honest, I suspect Weaveworld is as good at its grade as Eye of the Tiger is at its, with the proviso, i cant climb eye of the tiger. but youknow, anything we manage to do at our limit is likely to seem far better to us than something we just waltz up unless it really stands out like the Araps easy routes do. Single pitch sport probably isn't going to do that.

When you get off the sport routes, the gramps has mindblowing moderate trad galore. Simplton, Heretic, Hard times, that 21 who's name I've forgotten at rosea, stuff at asses ears and mt difficult, all those forementioned things at Bundaleer, not to mention basilisk direct finish, that is a 4 star contender for sure!
7:46:32 PM
Neil disagreed, Basilisk Direct only got one star. But if we all liked the same things it'd get kinda boring.

I'll agree that sport seems better at the harder grades... that I can climb. I just think that if you're going to give out stars, it should be subjective for that grade, rather than trying to compare it to the hardest route you can do.

8:16:30 PM
I'm beginning to understand why some guide book authors don't use stars!

8:39:15 PM
On 13/04/2013 prb wrote:
>I nominate Endless Love at Moonarie as SA's best 25 (pity I can't get up it!)

Whilst good, Endless Love wouldn't get my vote for best 25 at Moonarie let alone Oz. Both RipOff and Durban Poison are better - and picking between those two comes down to personal preference.
8:44:31 PM
On 13/04/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>I'm beginning to understand why some guide book authors don't use stars!

I think any star system is better than none though Neil, after working off a couple of no star guides recently - one of which claimed that everyroute in it was 2 or 3 stars in the comprehensive guidebook, then mentioned a bit later that there were a few fillers because they were in the area - so until you went and looked at the cliff and did some guesswork, you had no idea which ones were just the fillers.

Most of the time, we are just carrying on about a tiny bit here or there and generally agree they are good routes. Except Basilisk for DF finish, which is incontestably the best value 16 in the Gramps!

9:07:22 PM
Neil & Simon, from what I've heard the guide's pretty rad. Congrats on a great effort.
9:11:27 PM
On 13/04/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>I'm beginning to understand why some guide book authors don't use stars!

Because people are opinionated bastards? It's easier for most of us, our choices of which routes we like aren't that available to the general public...
9:31:19 PM
Oh man i forgot about world party pitch 3. Ten stars!!
One Day Hero
11:39:21 PM
On 13/04/2013 Wendy wrote:
>I know it's terribly unfashionable of me, but I don't rate the climbing
>on Taipan that much.

And yet, somewhat ironically, if you replaced all of the existing routes on that wall (and their perfect funky moves between beautiful slopey holds) with a whole bunch of horrible flaring bumcracks, you'd be on here crapping on about how it's the best crag in the galaxy!

You could do both the routes on which I've belayed you..........they're only too hard when you're in whiney mode, just snap into badarse mode and it'll be fine.
8:47:34 AM
On 13/04/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>I'm beginning to understand why some guide book authors don't use stars!

If you really want to cop flak then do a guidebook without stars. I reserve my most condemning reviews for guides that take that soft option.
9:06:49 AM
On 14/04/2013 simey wrote:
>If you really want to cop flak then do a guidebook without stars. I reserve
>my most condemning reviews for guides that take that soft option.

At least this way we're just disagreeing over how many stars, and it seems to mostly be about the mythical 4th star. Well, except for Wendy and her penchant for roof trenches.
9:39:28 AM
On 13/04/2013 Dave J wrote:
>At the risk of further derailing Neils thread...
>I personally wouldn't put Mr J in the top 25% of routes on that wall and
>I think if you just went out and did a few more of the classics on Taipan
>you'd be in a better position to comment.

To say Mr Joshua is not in the top 25% of routes on that wall is laughable. There are 72 routes/projects listed on Taipan in Neil's guide, that means you need to list 18 routes that are better than it. I think you will have some trouble.

>Its true they're mostly not 25
>but some walls just don't lend themselves to that particular grade (the
>best routes on Tiger wall aren't 25 either and if someone was banging on
>about Sunday Best being the best line on the wall because it was 25 when
>they hadnt gone and done any of the classic 8s and 10s it would be hard
>to take them seriously too).

It's true that Taipan doesn't lend itself to to grade 25, but the reality is that Mr Joshua is absolutely brilliant pitch at the grade. If you took out those rests, it wouldn't be grade 25! Even these supposedly better routes still have flaws which Mr J doesn't have... For example on Serpentine you have to climb a long traversy, shitty bolted grade 24 to even reach the main pitch. Cardigan Street doesn't even have a climbable first pitch - you need to solo to the top of the cliff and then rap in. As for climbs with rests - well I bet Feather Boa has few of them given the first part of the main pitch is a SLAB! And did we mention another long shitty traverse just to reach the start of Feather Boa? I seem to recall that Groovy has some pretty significant rests interspersed between harder climbing.
>Out of curiosity have you been back and actually done Mr J?

Well I recall doing the first pitch with Gordy many years ago (early 90s). We went there one day and I climbed it and he failed on it. Then later that summer Gordy (with Simon Carter) ticked Serpentine - much to my amazement.

I have been on the second pitch, but haven't done it clean.

10:57:19 AM

Pictures and write up of new 32 in taipan.
3:14:00 PM
Back to the important topic - the book. I finally got out of the house for the first time in 5 days and Phil has sold out of it already.

Simon, do you have any left if I order from you or should I start chasing around the other shops for what is looking like being scare property until that sea order arrives?
Dave J
3:23:41 PM
On 15/04/2013 kp wrote:
>Pictures and write up of new 32 in taipan.

Now that looks like a 4 star route
9:24:09 AM
Wendy - I only have a couple left for mail orders, I'll hold one for you for today. You could also try Wimmera Outdoors, they ordered more than Phil.
11:06:59 AM
thanks Simon, ill check out wimmera outdoors today and if they are out, i'll order one from you.
1:56:02 PM
On 16/04/2013 Wendy wrote:
>thanks Simon, ill check out wimmera outdoors today and if they are out,
>i'll order one from you.
5 left after I bought mine at lunchtime.

post-edit : Chuffed to find that I've had the honour of worst climb in the guide bestowed on one of my offerings.

3:02:16 PM
On 16/04/2013 kieranl wrote:

>post-edit : Chuffed to find that I've had the honour of worst climb in
>the guide bestowed on one of my offerings.

I bet that made you smile!

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 71
There are 71 messages in this topic.


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