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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 8. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 152
Author
She sells sea shells - Point Perp

BundyBear
4/03/2013
12:05:56 PM
So who chopped the bolts on "She sells sea shells" on the weekend.

Seems like the bolting wars down there are heating up again !!

grantoss
4/03/2013
12:29:45 PM
firstly, I didnt do any chopping.... but I do reckon bolting an escape route kinda ruins that committing feeling of rapping over the edge out there!
I love Nowra but the last thing I wanna see is Windjammer turned into TP

Big G
4/03/2013
12:33:19 PM
it wou;ld have been nice for the chopper to tag the climb or at least notify people as a couple of people had to exit via that route without bolts yesterday. If they had known they could have taken some gear down to protect the climb. not very smart on behalf of the chopper

grantoss
4/03/2013
12:45:04 PM
Just out of curiosity did these folks just go down there to try that particular route?

Is'nt there other sport routes down there now which they could have gone bolt to bolt on to get out if need be?

Big G
4/03/2013
1:29:04 PM
no, they did some other routes but the only routes that top out from there are above their ability plus they didnt know until they got on it. again if they had jknown they could have brought their rack and gone out via grey mist or man overboard

cruze
4/03/2013
2:11:45 PM
so they pulled their rap rope?

nmonteith
4/03/2013
2:26:45 PM
Was this route a retro-bolt? If so I can see why it got chopped.

Big G
4/03/2013
2:29:54 PM
On 4/03/2013 cruze wrote:
>so they pulled their rap rope?

they thought there was an exit route jumped on it THEN found that many of the bolts were missing. belay station was left then another couple of bolts (which are visible) after the first few moves then nothing to the top.


Big G
4/03/2013
2:37:08 PM
On 4/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Was this route a retro-bolt? If so I can see why it got chopped.

not sure and the point is no one was told and as far as this party was concerned the bolts existed and planned to use them. Im not arguing for the routes existence but the chopper should have advertised the actions for safetys sake

nmonteith
4/03/2013
2:40:57 PM
On 4/03/2013 Big G wrote:
>On 4/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>>Was this route a retro-bolt? If so I can see why it got chopped.
>
>not sure and the point is no one was told and as far as this party was
>concerned the bolts existed and planned to use them. Im not arguing for
>the routes existence but the chopper should have advertised the actions
>for safetys sake

And I guess it also begs the question - if someone had had an accident because the bolts had been removed? I hope the debolters are man enough to at least own up to their actions.

shortman
4/03/2013
2:43:33 PM
On 4/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:

>I hope the debolters are man enough
>to at least own up to their actions.

Like being man enough to answer someones simple question about being banned from Safer Cliffs?

nmonteith
4/03/2013
2:48:40 PM
On 4/03/2013 shortman wrote:
>Like being man enough to answer someones simple question about being banned
>from Safer Cliffs?
>

Haven't you heard? I'm an Autocratic/authoritarian/despotic/totalitarian/megalomanic/dictator.

grantoss
4/03/2013
3:15:24 PM
On 4/03/2013 Big G wrote:
>no, they did some other routes but the only routes that top out from there
>are above their ability plus they didnt know until they got on it. again
>if they had jknown they could have brought their rack and gone out via
>grey mist or man overboard

when did routes at the point stop topping out?
I havent been there since around this time last year but I cant remember seeing lower offs then...
One Day Hero
4/03/2013
3:21:26 PM
On 4/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>And I guess it also begs the question - if someone had had an accident
>because the bolts had been removed?

Blaming the removal of bolts for a potential accident is symptomatic of the sport climber wrongthink which is going on these days. Those climbers should have;

a) Been carrying enough rack to protect the easiest way out.

b) Walked out (yes you can walk out from the windjammer ledge. If you climb there, it's your responsibility to know the way!)

c) Toprope self belayed up the route which their rap rope was over. This is perfectly safe if you know how to do it.

d) Prussicked their rope. Anyone climbing at a rap in cliff without prussicks and the ability to use them is an arseclown and shouldn't be bitching about other people compromising their safety.

Bolts don't make things safe, climbers with appropriate skills make things safe. Retrobolting attracts climbers who lack appropriate skills, hence it seems to be unsafe.

P.S. I didn't chop the bolts. I reckon they were a bit of a travesty, but was keen to lias with Rick about a solution. Anyway, they're gone now and no orphans died in the process. Learn how to climb there without needing that route bolted, it isn't a big hassle.

Big G
4/03/2013
3:30:47 PM
>
>a) Been carrying enough rack to protect the easiest way out.
>
they would have if they had KNOWN thats the point
One Day Hero
4/03/2013
3:43:12 PM
Well.......now they know, right? Besides, survivng a minor epic will be good for their climbing :)

Anyway, I take that to mean that the climbers in question were unable to b), c), or d). In other words, they need to educate themselves asap!

Big G
4/03/2013
3:48:42 PM
no - they could have climbed out with a rack or any of the other options (with the exception of walking out - not sure about that) had they known about the extent of the chopping

epics are good for your climbing but its nice if you only have yourself to blame for them

One Day Hero
4/03/2013
3:52:10 PM
As soon as they discovered the extent of the chopping, they could have reversed the climbing and taken another option. Can't blame the chopper for the cascade of bad decisions.
ademmert
4/03/2013
4:06:39 PM
??? They pulled their rope(s) before checking the route??
Point Perp = Adventure cliff = be prepared for anything end of story

Miguel75
4/03/2013
4:22:41 PM
On 4/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Haven't you heard? I'm an Autocratic/authoritarian/despotic/totalitarian/megalomanic/dictator

That'd be a cool title on a business card.

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