Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond "STOPPER" Set. (Sizes 4 to 13) - 10 pieces. Comes with a "free" karabiner for racking.   $109.00
16% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 5 of 8. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 152
Author
She sells sea shells - Point Perp

nmonteith
8/03/2013
10:21:49 AM
You guys do realize that you can still require hooks if you are rap bolting? I highly doubt Matt was going ground-up.

Macciza
Online Now
8/03/2013
10:34:48 AM
I think the comments are in regard to the 'Bolting as scary as runout trad' comment . . seriously . . .
Whilst you're here, Niel
Have you gotten any of my emails or PMs about SCA access?
I have not got any replies yet??
Cheers
MM
One Day Hero
8/03/2013
10:34:52 AM
On 8/03/2013 technogeekery wrote:
>None of these bolting "discussions" ever seem to
>go anywhere really

Oh, we're going somewhere this time. Four routes chopped already, by four different people :)

>
>That said - Matt, I'm interested in why you'd drill bolts from hooks (rather
>than rap-bolting)? Do you
>have a strict ground-up ethic?
>Just interested, certainly not criticising and have no axe
>to grind.

No axe and no idea! You are clearly ingesting too much american climbing media if you even thought for a second that Matt was bolting on lead from hooks at Point Perp.

BundyBear
8/03/2013
11:20:17 AM
So whats been chopped now ?

1. Matts Project
2. SSSS
3. ?
4. ?

One Day Hero
8/03/2013
12:51:19 PM
Chill Bundy, I'm talking about the nationwide trend in letting bolters know that the laissez faire dream is over.

1. Matt's pathetic retro of Sail the Nullabor
2. Rick's partial retro of Beside the Seaside
3. Terry's stupid route at Kiera
4. That boulder problem joke thing at Buffalo

Stay tuned, there's more to come
technogeekery
8/03/2013
1:27:36 PM
On 8/03/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>You guys do realize that you can still require hooks if you are rap bolting?
>I highly doubt Matt was going ground-up.

No, I didn't know that. When he talked about it being scary, I just assumed it was on lead, never crossed my mind that rap bolting could be scary (although PP is pretty "atmospheric" for sure).

ODH - every time you post, it makes me think of a little Yorkshire terrier bursting onto the scene, yapping its head off and spraying urine wildly in an attempt to mark its territory. You sometimes make sense, but the permanent attack dog mode, ad hominems and schoolyard bully approach really do adversely affect this whole site. Some people defend you as someone who knows what he is talking about, so I've not hidden your posts to date - but is all a little too much like searching a mineworkers faeces for smuggled diamonds. Time to switch you off.
One Day Hero
8/03/2013
1:42:44 PM
Sweet, 31 vote offs. Stuey is never gonna catch up now!

nmonteith
8/03/2013
1:45:54 PM
On 8/03/2013 technogeekery wrote:
>No, I didn't know that. When he talked about it being scary, I just assumed
>it was on lead, never crossed my mind that rap bolting could be scary (although
>PP is pretty "atmospheric" for sure).

If a route has any traversing or is overhung then you need hooks/trad/dogging bolts to aid in to place the bolts. The steeper and traversier the route the more it gets closer to leading! The falls are generally sideways and out rather than down, but if there are corners or aretes in play then it can be the same as hitting the deck - but with the side of your body or your head rather than your legs!

Big G
8/03/2013
1:58:42 PM

>3. Terry's stupid route at Kiera

waste of time chopping it, the whole of kiera is going to fal down anyway

JMK
8/03/2013
2:36:50 PM
Chopping the bolts on the boulder at buffalo counts as a victory? I would much prefer all the retro bolts added at nowra be chopped, particularly if they are near a crack. Now that would be a victory.
technogeekery
8/03/2013
4:36:33 PM
Interesting, Neil - thanks.

Macciza
Online Now
8/03/2013
4:39:01 PM
Yeah, it sounds terrifying, for a sport climber . .

BundyBear
11/03/2013
10:49:52 AM
So the chopper has been busy on "Reach around" with a bolt chopped.

From all accounts its a pretty dodgy job with an angle grinder and nothing patched..
One Day Hero
11/03/2013
11:08:43 AM
Is "Reach Around" a new route or a retrobolt?

nmonteith
11/03/2013
11:26:47 AM
I'm interested to know what the choppers think of the sport route Rock Termite over at Solstice Wall. It's a 15m grade 12 that has 9 bolts. Established 9 years ago... and the sport route next to it Solstice 15m grade 15 with 8 bolts. By the new standards these would be considered overbolted and lowering the Point Perp standard wouldn't they?


Macciza
Online Now
11/03/2013
11:30:25 AM
On 11/03/2013 BundyBear wrote:
>From all accounts its a pretty dodgy job with an angle grinder and nothing patched..

Well I think the debolter considered the act of placing the new bolt was pretty dodgy and felt under no obligation to cover-up that fact, only to remove the offending item. Why should he need to cover-up its removal ?

nmonteith
11/03/2013
11:50:08 AM
On 11/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Is "Reach Around" a new route or a retrobolt?

It's a new route, a left hand variant of Dry Reaching.
One Day Hero
11/03/2013
12:20:51 PM
How can anyone have hoped to squeeze an independent route between Dry Reaching and Dracophyllium Corner?

Big G
11/03/2013
12:30:56 PM
On 11/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>How can anyone have hoped to squeeze an independent route between Dry Reaching
>and Dracophyllium Corner?

Its no more or less of a squeeze job than Urban Spacecowboy is (or whatever its called) between Over the yardarm and Dracophyllium Corner.

dave h.
11/03/2013
12:47:00 PM
On 11/03/2013 Macciza wrote:
>On 11/03/2013 BundyBear wrote:
>>From all accounts its a pretty dodgy job with an angle grinder and nothing
>patched..
>
>Well I think the debolter considered the act of placing the new bolt was
>pretty dodgy and felt under no obligation to cover-up that fact, only to
>remove the offending item. Why should he need to cover-up its removal ?

Do you think that because the bolt shouldn't have been placed in the first place, there's no need to do a good job of removing it and camouflaging the hole?

I don't really see how else I can read your post.

 Page 5 of 8. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 152
There are 152 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints