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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 110
Author
Sport climbers - why don't you climb trad?

davidn
28/01/2013
4:32:25 PM
On 28/01/2013 Cliff wrote:
>as bouldering is to safe(r) soloing

Fixed for you.
mikllaw
28/01/2013
6:05:24 PM
my usual reply is;- sport climbs should get sport grades (French) and trad climbs should get Ewbank grades. Because anyone can get up a 7a, but 24s are desperate

Big G
28/01/2013
7:27:35 PM
I bought 10 draws for $100. What sort of rack do you think that would buy? Money is the main reason.

PS my rack is building.... slowly. I have started to lead a few trad climbs I have previously seconded.

arniearms
28/01/2013
7:52:05 PM
To be honest, the reason I boulder and sport waaaaaay more than trad is convenience and locality. If Arraps was less of a punish to drive to from NSW (ie if I lived in Melbourne and half the local communtiy were there Id be climbing with gear, bolts or crash pad). Also comes back to learning to climb on bolts, and occasional mixed routes, and also when I was younger money was a limiting factor too.
leeman
28/01/2013
9:56:43 PM
As a young(er) climber, I just find it difficult to find an experienced partner to learn from, to place gear, and be confident in those placements. Especially in Sydney. I;m harassing my friends to go out all the time, but even then I'm the most 'experienced' person there, and I'm not prepared to just wing it learning trad.

nmonteith
28/01/2013
10:27:00 PM
On 28/01/2013 Big G wrote:
>I bought 10 draws for $100. What sort of rack do you think that would buy?
>Money is the main reason.
>
>PS my rack is building.... slowly. I have started to lead a few trad climbs
>I have previously seconded.

$100 would buy a decent amount of second hand nuts and hexes. Enough to get up your first year of trad climbing! :-)

Macciza
28/01/2013
11:12:39 PM
>bouldering is a bit unclassifiable

bouldering is to soloing as steps are to ladders . . .

On 28/01/2013 ratherbeclimbinv9 wrote:
>On 28/01/2013 Cliff wrote:
>>as bouldering is to safe(r) soloing
>
>Fixed for you.

Macciza
28/01/2013
11:15:45 PM
On 28/01/2013 egosan wrote:
>Where do the aid fetishists fit in your hierarchy?

Isn't that just sport climbing on trad gear . . .
But you pull on trad gear instead of aid-rings . .

Snacks
29/01/2013
10:29:46 AM
I dabble with trad when the opportunity arises, but I'd say generally the setup with trad is a lot more constraining...

In short...

Time, money, risks, planning, training and effort are all generally higher per individual climb.

vwills
29/01/2013
10:33:11 AM
On 29/01/2013 Snacks wrote:
>I dabble with trad when the opportunity arises, but I'd say generally the
>setup with trad is a lot more constraining...
>
>In short...
>
>Time, money, risks, planning, training and effort are all generally higher
>per individual climb.

Hmmm. Must be a GenY thing. For me effort = reward
martym
29/01/2013
11:09:21 AM
On 27/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
> I'm not interested in hearing hypotheticals from trad
>climbers - but reasons from actual sport climbers themselves.

Then you should have made it a poll - most of the responses are from Trad Climbers who are happy to spend the time thinking about stuff.
Pure sport climbers want to click (clip) and get on with it :)

Climboholic
29/01/2013
11:15:03 AM
On 27/01/2013 Macciza wrote:
>...Not everything was spurt climbing in NSW in the early 90's either. Shipley
>had a lot of mixed routes, carrots and gear, that got retro'd, probably
>before you got there . . . As did many other local crags that have since
>been retro'd as well. NarrowNeck had no rings, except for the curtain hangers
>in the roof - 'Strange Car . . '?...

It sounds like people climb sport because most of the trad climbs worth doing in NSW have been retrobolted.

The rock influences the predominant style which influences the ethic which leads to retroing.

Edit: As a climber who has been living in NSW/ACT for 7 years, I feel that I've been here long enough to say that Victorian climbing is better (because of the ethics)*, without being accused of bias.

*Edit (for clarification)

Eduardo Slabofvic
29/01/2013
11:27:10 AM
The Home Page for this site reads "Rock Climbing in Victoria, Australia"

This thread appears to be mostly populated by people from Sydney.

Sydney is full of gay people (not that there's anything wrong with that).

Therefore the answer to the original question "Sport Climbers - why don't you climb trad?" is "Because Sport Climbers are gay (not that there's anything wrond with that)"

I could not be any clearer.
tor.lattimore
29/01/2013
11:42:17 AM

>
>Yep. I still have a tiny lack of range left, and it does hurt a bit to
>stretch it still, but it doesn't bother me on daily stuff or climbing.
>I was going completely insane and being able to climb even though it was
>piss easy stuff mad a massive difference. Your's still hurts? That's crap.
> My physio's instructions are to keep stretching, go climbing and work
>up to full push ups. Now I'm going insane from being sick, but that looks
>like it's going to be over soon too, still it's put even those very simple
>remaining rehab instructions behind schedule. Heading to Tassie next week
>only climbing 15s. I'll be hunting out all the easy trad around for the
>first week or so.

Ok. Sounds like my doctor is just a bit more conservative as he wants me to be totally pain free before climbing. I can do plenty of push ups and pull ups without pain, but stretching in a few directions hurts a bit still.

nmonteith
29/01/2013
12:30:19 PM
On 29/01/2013 Climboholic wrote:
>
>People climb sport because most of the trad climbs worth doing in NSW
>have been retrobolted.
>

Not exaggerating are we? I don't think the Eternitys, Icebirds, Echo Cracks, Flight of Pheniox, Strangeness and Charms have been retroed have they? There is plenty of unblemished trad routes in NSW!
gfdonc
29/01/2013
12:47:49 PM
I don't think the fact that you could name most of 'em off the top of your head helped your argument Neil ...

Climboholic
29/01/2013
12:52:29 PM
On 29/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>On 29/01/2013 Climboholic wrote:
>>
>>People climb sport because most of the trad climbs worth doing in
>NSW
>>have been retrobolted.

>>
>
>Not exaggerating are we? I don't think the Eternitys, Icebirds, Echo Cracks,
>Flight of Pheniox, Strangeness and Charms have been retroed have they?
>There is plenty of unblemished trad routes in NSW!

I said most and I was referring mainly to the Bluies.

The point I was making was that a sport ethic develops in an area that is predominantly sport.

I learnt to climb on trad, then I moved to Canberra and was quite happy (if not a little scared at times) on ACT granite. Then I moved to Newcastle and I lost interest in climbing for a while due to the lack of trad options within 3 hours.

Vanessa, I'd be keen to know where the trad that's not in the guidebooks is? I enjoyed the handful of climbs at my grade (<20) at the Zawn and a few days at Monkey Face, but I started to run out of inspiration after about a year. It's also hard to get most people I know around here motivated for a trad trip.


nmonteith
29/01/2013
1:05:01 PM
I was making the point that the iconic trad routes - the big lines, are still unbolted. I don't think anyone would have called the Upper Shipley wall a 'trad' crag. It was a mixed place at best, heaps of bolts. Piddo and Cosmic still have heaps of cracker cracks for the trad climber. Point Perp is another spot with heaps of big trad lines. No one has drilled bolts next to established cracks that I can think of apart from at Nowra (which I was a little sad about).

Snacks
29/01/2013
1:07:34 PM
Staggy,

Here's a quick link to a filtered search on local Hunter Valley trad climbs:

http://www.thecrag.com/routes/at/11741395/with-grade/AU:1:20/with-gear-style/trad/


On 29/01/2013 Climboholic wrote:
>On 29/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>>On 29/01/2013 Climboholic wrote:
>>>
>>>People climb sport because most of the trad climbs worth doing in
>>NSW
>>>have been retrobolted.

>>>
>>
>>Not exaggerating are we? I don't think the Eternitys, Icebirds, Echo
>Cracks,
>>Flight of Pheniox, Strangeness and Charms have been retroed have they?
>>There is plenty of unblemished trad routes in NSW!
>
>I said most and I was referring mainly to the Bluies.
>
>The point I was making was that a sport ethic develops in an area that
>is predominantly sport.
>
>I learnt to climb on trad, then I moved to Canberra and was quite happy
>(if not a little scared at times) on ACT granite. Then I moved to Newcastle
>and I lost interest in climbing for a while due to the lack of trad options
>within 3 hours.
>
>Vanessa, I'd be keen to know where the trad that's not in the guidebooks
>is? I enjoyed the handful of climbs at my grade (<20) at the Zawn and a
>few days at Monkey Face, but I started to run out of inspiration after
>about a year. It's also hard to get most people I know around here motivated
>for a trad trip.
>
>
One Day Hero
29/01/2013
1:13:28 PM
On 29/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:

>Not exaggerating are we? I don't think the Eternitys, Icebirds, Echo Cracks,
>Flight of Pheniox, Strangeness and Charms have been retroed have they?

Strangeness had 5 big bolts retroed into the first pitch. They were quickly removed by the retroer (placing them was a bit of snap decision while trying to find a way to make Bungers more approachable for a greater cross section of the climbing community).

Cornerstone Rib had bolts added (by you and Mike, wasn't it?)

 Page 3 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 110
There are 110 messages in this topic.

 

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