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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 110
Author
Sport climbers - why don't you climb trad?

Climboholic
29/01/2013
1:15:57 PM
On 28/01/2013 wogdog wrote:
>Climbing sport tends to overinflate your ego so returning to trad after
>years of sport generally means you need to significantly drop your grades
>or do the odd crack climb, which tends to crap on your ego a little and
>bring you back down to earth. At least thats been my experience.

Well put!

See Macca, some sport climbers are happy to answer honestly.

I for one know, that when I climb sport it quickly becomes about a sense of achievement through conquest instead of enjoying the experience of climbing. They are two very distinct forms of satisfaction, hence the apparent divide in the community.
One Day Hero
29/01/2013
1:18:43 PM
On 29/01/2013 Climboholic wrote:

>See Macca, some sport climbers are happy to answer honestly.

Climbaholic, you clearly don't know much about Wogdog if you think of him only as a sport climber :)

nmonteith
29/01/2013
1:24:10 PM
On 29/01/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Strangeness had 5 big bolts retroed into the first pitch. They were quickly
>removed by the retroer (placing them was a bit of snap decision while trying
>to find a way to make Bungers more approachable for a greater cross section
>of the climbing community).

I thought you said we should never mention that episode in public! Wasn't the retrobolter either the first ascentist or at least one of the main developers and guidebook author to the gorge? I was quite shocked when you told me he had added bolts to that route!

>Cornerstone Rib had bolts added (by you and Mike, wasn't it?)

I wasn't me! I believe Mike added some anchor bolts at the direct request of the first ascentist. No bolts were added to the actual climbing itself. So it was hardly turned into a sport climb!

Miguel75
29/01/2013
1:36:16 PM
On 29/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>On 29/01/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Strangeness had 5 big bolts retroed into the first pitch. They were quickly
>>removed by the retroer (placing them was a bit of snap decision while
>trying
>>to find a way to make Bungers more approachable for a greater cross section
>>of the climbing community).
>
>I thought you said we should never mention that episode in public!

Ohhh, intrigue and secrets....
One Day Hero
29/01/2013
1:37:10 PM
It's not really important who did it, they realised straight away that it was a bad idea and fixed it themselves. I had to mention it now, because otherwise your dodgy claim was going to be taken as truth.

Saying that belay bolts aren't retroing the climbing is a bit bullshit, all those american cracks with chains at every belay are very different to how they'd be au natural.

Anyway, my point is that no established trad and mixed routes seem to be off limits right now. Everything is under threat from the "department of convenience"

Climboholic
29/01/2013
1:40:28 PM
On 29/01/2013 Snacks wrote:
>Staggy,
>
>Here's a quick link to a filtered search on local Hunter Valley trad climbs:
>
>http://www.thecrag.com/routes/at/11741395/with-grade/AU:1:20/with-gear-style/trad/
>

Leith,

Thanks for the list.

I haven't been to Dora's Pinnacles (might have to be my next trip) so I can't comment on that, but I see very few stars and nothing over a pitch in the rest of the list. You have to make the most of the rock available and and I don't think that retrobolting or bolting potential trad routes is the way to do it.

My comment about retroing good trad climbs was prompted by the recent bolting at Kaputar and the comment about retroing at lower shipley (in the early 2000's?).

One Day Hero
29/01/2013
1:43:29 PM
What's happened at Lower Shipley? Let me guess......all the cool old mixed routes like St. Valentines Day Massacre are now ringbolted sport routes to loweroffs?

E. Wells
29/01/2013
1:46:29 PM
The best long single pitch trad cracks in the Gay Mountains are at Odin Head in Mt Vic.

nmonteith
29/01/2013
1:48:00 PM
One of the most interesting points that seems to be ignored is that the majority of this retrobolting is actually done by climbers in their 40s or older - usually with decades of climbing experiance including trad. The retrobolting is rarely done by young inexperienced climbers. Thoughts?
One Day Hero
29/01/2013
1:49:15 PM
Any shade there, or is it "winter only" like Ikara?

Climboholic
29/01/2013
1:50:35 PM
On 29/01/2013 martym wrote:
>On 27/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>> I'm not interested in hearing hypotheticals from trad
>>climbers - but reasons from actual sport climbers themselves.
>
>Then you should have made it a poll - most of the responses are from Trad
>Climbers who are happy to spend the time thinking about stuff.
>Pure sport climbers want to click (clip) and get on with it :)

Is this an argument for or against trad? Both sides would use this statement to support their argument.
mikllaw
29/01/2013
1:55:53 PM
On 29/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>>Cornerstone Rib had bolts added (by you and Mike, wasn't it?)
>
>I wasn't me! I believe Mike added some anchor bolts at the direct request
>of the first ascentist. No bolts were added to the actual climbing itself.
>So it was hardly turned into a sport climb!

Not belays, 2 rap anchors where the gear was so spread out and far back on the ledge that at least one retreat ended up sacrificing a rope to make an anchor, the 6 other belays were ok. And yes, Bryden asked me to.
martym
29/01/2013
2:02:35 PM
On 29/01/2013 Climboholic wrote:
>On 29/01/2013 martym wrote:
>>On 27/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>>> I'm not interested in hearing hypotheticals from trad
>>>climbers - but reasons from actual sport climbers themselves.
>>
>>Then you should have made it a poll - most of the responses are from
>Trad
>>Climbers who are happy to spend the time thinking about stuff.
>>Pure sport climbers want to click (clip) and get on with it :)
>
>Is this an argument for or against trad? Both sides would use this statement
>to support their argument.

It's an argument for a poll - because almost no "100% sport climbers" have commented, as far as I can tell...
PDRM
29/01/2013
2:30:05 PM
On 29/01/2013 mikllaw wrote:

>Not belays, 2 rap anchors where the gear was so spread out and far back
>on the ledge that at least one retreat ended up sacrificing a rope to make
>an anchor, the 6 other belays were ok. And yes, Bryden asked me to.

I remember hearing about suggestions regarding bolting lines on the face on Bluff Mtn years ago...

P
maadness
29/01/2013
2:31:57 PM
On 29/01/2013 Spugang wrote:
>The Home Page for this site reads "Rock Climbing in Victoria, Australia"
>
>This thread appears to be mostly populated by people from Sydney.
>
>Sydney is full of gay people (not that there's anything wrong with that).
>
>Therefore the answer to the original question "Sport Climbers - why don't
>you climb trad?" is "Because Sport Climbers are gay (not that there's anything
>wrond with that)"
>
>I could not be any clearer.

Well they don't complain as much as the tradites, but are they truly happy?
kieranl
29/01/2013
2:37:25 PM
On 29/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>One of the most interesting points that seems to be ignored is that the
>majority of this retrobolting is actually done by climbers in their 40s
>or older - usually with decades of climbing experiance including trad.
>The retrobolting is rarely done by young inexperienced climbers. Thoughts?
We're getting too old to die young.
One Day Hero
29/01/2013
2:50:10 PM
Young, inexperienced climbers usually lack the confidence to mess about with existing stuff, which is the way it should be. They are way too psyched on actually climbing stuff to bother with crag work (again, that's good). Older climbers realise that there is work to be done in order to maintain crags, and want to put back in to the sport which they love. Unfortunately, sometime in their 40's a lot of blokes seem to have their balls shrivel up. Testosterone levels drop right off and many kinda trade on a badarse reputation which was earned in their youth........when, in fact, they've aged into a timid caricature of their former selves ;)

Big G
29/01/2013
2:56:31 PM
On 28/01/2013 nmonteith wrote:


>$100 would buy a decent amount of second hand nuts and hexes. Enough to
>get up your first year of trad climbing! :-)

still need the biners too!

thats what i've got - some new some, second hand nuts - a couple of small hexes

there is no denying a basic sport rack is cheaper than a basic trad rack

rodw
29/01/2013
2:57:17 PM
On 29/01/2013 martym wrote:

>It's an argument for a poll - because almost no "100% sport climbers"
>have commented, as far as I can tell...

I am and I was the first
Pommy
29/01/2013
3:21:55 PM
Isn't this just a sprayfest for trad climbers?

 Page 4 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 110
There are 110 messages in this topic.

 

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