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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Adam Ondra Frees “Change” (5.15c)

ajfclark
Online Now
7/10/2012
7:35:48 AM
There's a bunch of posts linked from this one: http://climbingnarc.com/2012/10/adam-ondra-opens-change-5-15c-flatanger-norway/

What would 5.15c be in Ewbank? ~37?

Zarb
7/10/2012
9:18:53 AM
I'm curious about this process of grading. How does it get verified as a 5.15c? Does someone else have to complete the route and give it the nod?

rodw
7/10/2012
9:24:18 AM
Pretty much and no doubt will get downgraded as they normally do.

sbm
8/10/2012
11:50:48 AM
On 7/10/2012 rodw wrote:
>Pretty much and no doubt will get downgraded as they normally do.

I dunno...Given the crazy amount of testpiece Euro sport routes Ondra has done 2nd ascents of without too much fuss, and even downgraded...I wouldn't be surprised for this route to actually be that hard...or at least consistent with Euro sport grades.

I always wondered what would happen when Ondra stopped repeating Sharma and Huber brothers routes as a teenager and started putting up his own. I guess we're starting to find out.
widewetandslippery
8/10/2012
12:51:53 PM
But has he ever repeated a rodw route?

rodw
8/10/2012
2:21:41 PM
At least mine don't have much chance of being downgraded...much like the parra eels cant go any worse next year...you can always find positives in mediocrity.

rodw
8/10/2012
2:25:37 PM
On 8/10/2012 sbm wrote:

>I dunno...Given the crazy amount of testpiece Euro sport routes Ondra
>has done 2nd ascents of without too much fuss, and even downgraded...I
>wouldn't be surprised for this route to actually be that hard...or at least
>consistent with Euro sport grades.

Was more a comment about other egos than questioning Ondra's ascent....no sooner does a route get a few repeats and someone will claim a downgrade, claiming new sequence, rest spots ....blah blah blah..either way its obviously hard and grats to him
maxdacat
8/10/2012
4:11:51 PM
Pretty dull name.

benjenga
11/10/2012
9:07:42 AM
A bit of extra info on the send.

It's been ten weeks since Ondra sent the first half of the route, a 20-meter pitch that weighs in at 5.15a/b on its own. The full route continues past the first anchor for another 30 meters of 5.14d climbing. Presumably to minimize rope drag on the monster pitch, Adam uses an interesting technique before heading out the second part of the climb. While at the rest between the two sections of climbing, he hangs by one arm and a poor knee. He ties a knot in the rope and clips it loosely to a quickdraw as a backup, then calls off belay. His belayer repositions beneath him and Adam pulls the rope through all the quicks so that it drops directly down to his belayer.

Despite Adam's slick tactics and determined efforts, it looked like he was going to come away empty-handed for this year. A few days ago via Facebook, filmmaker Petr Pavlíček described what they thought would be Adam's last efforts on the route due to wet rock. "The weather during our second 2012 Norwegian trip to this incredibly beautiful "end of the world" does not allow Adam to finish his ultimate 9b(+) project called The Change. Sometimes it is more swimming than climbing, especially in the second pitch."

Petr went on to describe Adam's effort two days ago. He'd made it all the way through the first pitch and linked through the crux of the second pitch only to fall off some wet crimps near the finish. After giving up for this trip and deciding to return one more time before the winter set in, the rock dried up and Adam was able to send what is quite likely the hardest sport route in the world. Just one day before the send Petr wrote, " After long denial, after long doubts, Adam finally and unwillingly admits it is 9b+ (5.15c). Yesterday he made great try again, and despite being in a really good shape, strong like probably never before, he fell again at the end of the second pitch crux, totally pumped and said "I need to get stronger..." After so many weeks on the route, he says now that it is at least as hard as Dura Dura project in Spain."

sliamese
11/10/2012
12:36:27 PM
On 8/10/2012 maxdacat wrote:
>Pretty dull name.

You should watch The Wizards Apprentice and start to get the backstory of ondra and why calling this change is a pretty big deal. For years he's focused on repeating testpieces (including 5 x 9b/37's). Now it seems hes ready to try to push the bar higher with his own routes, a 'change' of focus i guess. Ondras pretty honest with grades and i doubt he'd give away the first 9b+/38 easily!

La Dura Dura project next?? Hope so...

Muki
11/10/2012
6:56:24 PM
Exiting stuff, putting up new climbs, to be doing it at the cutting edge 37 ?

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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