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Too run out; or not too run out? That is the ?...


IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Sep-2012
8:41:39 PM

On 10/09/2012 Olbert wrote:
>This is typical of the protection we used on Snake Dyke:
>
>

>
>It was more of a hike anyway so it wasn't really too much of a problem.
>

In my opinion that belay setup (if it was the only piece), was worthless in that configuration, as any loading on it caused by a taught rope would lift it off the nubbin.
It might have stood half a chance under load if belayer was sitting well below it, with no slack in the system, and waist belaying...


phillipivan

11-Sep-2012
10:01:39 PM

Rod, err M9, I don't think that sling is part of an anchor, the belayer is just a few meters below with an anchor of some kind of quality (presumably, hopefully, better than a sling on a nubbin).

One Day Hero

11-Sep-2012
10:27:28 PM

There's different types of run out. Easy slabs on super-grippy granite aren't a problem, because you're just not going to fall off. Same with squeeze chimneys. It might look run out, and falling would be catastrophic......but you can't actually fall, so no need to stress.

On the other hand, places like Taipan and Ceuse aren't incredibly run out (in the scheme of things). However you're going to fall off for sure! So instead of pondering the minute possibility of a terrible fall, you have to face up to the actually certainty of taking repeated medium-biggish whips.

Seems that lots of climbers can't deal with either of those situations.

One Day Hero

11-Sep-2012
10:29:22 PM

On 11/09/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>In my opinion that belay setup (if it was the only piece), was worthless
>in that configuration, as any loading on it caused by a taught rope would
>lift it off the nubbin.

I think it's much safer to refer to that thing as a chickenhead...........nubbin just sounds dangerous!

martym

11-Sep-2012
10:57:58 PM

On 7/09/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 6/09/2012 Macciza wrote:
>>Also 'runout' and 'dangerous' can be really subjective - it depends on
>>the particular climber . .

There's two points to Macca's quote.

"Runout" ~ out of your comfort zone

"Dangerous" ~ you're pissed off and potentially reconsidering why you're there & planning on writing the FA a sternly worded ~~letter~~ (email) but probably won't.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

12-Sep-2012
9:42:08 AM

On 11/09/2012 phillipivan wrote:
>Rod, err M9, I don't think that sling is part of an anchor, the belayer
>is just a few meters below with an anchor of some kind of quality (presumably,
>hopefully, better than a sling on a nubbin).
>
You are right! Now that I see the pic in cold light of morning instead of a Laphroig-misted evening I wonder what I was thinking?

OK a new response is required...
~> That's not runout ollie, it's bomber since you added the 'runner' to the runner to weight it down and prevent rope-drag from dislodging it!
~> and 4 bits of similar pro (assumes leader carries belayers 'runners' in 60 m of slab), is safe!
;-)

Btw; Good improvisation, thinking off your feet and all that, there ollie!

Olbert

13-Sep-2012
9:45:01 AM

On 12/09/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 11/09/2012 phillipivan wrote:
>>Rod, err M9, I don't think that sling is part of an anchor, the belayer
>>is just a few meters below with an anchor of some kind of quality (presumably,
>>hopefully, better than a sling on a nubbin).
>>
>You are right! Now that I see the pic in cold light of morning instead
>of a Laphroig-misted evening I wonder what I was thinking?
>
>OK a new response is required...
>~> That's not runout ollie, it's bomber since you added the 'runner' to
>the runner to weight it down and prevent rope-drag from dislodging it!
>~> and 4 bits of similar pro (assumes leader carries belayers 'runners'
>in 60 m of slab), is safe!
>;-)
>
>Btw; Good improvisation, thinking off your feet and all that, there ollie!

Cant actually claim that one, that was Hamish, I am the belayer in the pink Camp helmet.


Eduardo Slabofvic

13-Sep-2012
9:53:10 AM

On 13/09/2012 Olbert wrote:
>
>Cant actually claim that one, that was Hamish, I am the belayer in the
> Camp pink helmet.

There ya go, fixed up your grammar.

There are 28 messages in this topic.