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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 43
Author
Ewbank Grading - articles by Ewbank.

stugang
5/07/2012
10:38:30 PM
I tried posting way better jokes than all yours an hour or two ago. But the "system crashed".

Curious to know from other old timers but are all the inside front covers upside down? (i.e. with the Eastern Mountain Centre ad upside down) Or was it just mine or one batch?

If it was just mine I could be sitting on a goldmine of at least $4.46.
ARidgley
5/07/2012
11:01:44 PM
I have a copy of the Cardigan guide (pocket size). The most amusing of all, which is more important than the grades.

As long as the description lets you know if it's dangerous, then the rest should be taken with a grain of Dead Sea salt. Mark Moorehead summed it up best in Kim's guide.

"Finally, concerning undergrading. Never, never admit to it. And never remain consistent. That is if you undergrade something by two grades, make it eight next time. Confusion is the key to success. People will readily accept procol Harem is 18, but there isn't the slightest chance you will get away with Bard at 11. Let your imagination guide you"

Louise's guide is magnificent, but it removed a lot of the mystique and excitement of the place. None of the sandbags were dangerous ... unless the guide said they were ... crypticly.
dalai
5/07/2012
11:16:49 PM
On 5/07/2012 stugang wrote:
>Curious to know from other old timers but are all the inside front covers
>upside down? (i.e. with the Eastern Mountain Centre ad upside down) Or
>was it just mine or one batch?
>
>If it was just mine I could be sitting on a goldmine of at least $4.46.

Craig Nottle on The British Beat? Right way up in mine...

wallwombat
6/07/2012
12:18:06 AM
On 5/07/2012 dalai wrote:
>Craig Nottle on The British Beat? Right way up in mine...

Mine too.

He has a funny looking dad's army type of helmet on.

I.T.P R.I.P

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/07/2012
9:01:17 AM
On 5/07/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>I think everyone would like the grade to indicate how hard the climb is.
>If it is only a technical move, that's the main factor.
>If it's sustained and scary, they are the main factors.
>Simple
>
>Whatever he's saying now, that's how grading is used in Australia (since
>74 at least).
>
>Some Americans like to grade the hardest move, which is amusing ("I can
>climb any 5.12, but I can't get up any 5.12" -?)

Hiphophooray another 1,000 post milestone from mikl, and a good one on a good topic too!
Actually his former-self got to 1,113 posts before reincarnation! ... so he is well over the double-1,000 mark now. ☺

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/07/2012
9:14:19 AM
On 5/07/2012 stugang wrote:
>Curious to know from other old timers but are all the inside front covers
>upside down? (i.e. with the Eastern Mountain Centre ad upside down) Or
>was it just mine or one batch?

It was a terrible problem at the time(Hehx3) and after much pre-internet angst-ing the VCC and Russell Crow corrected it in Oct 1989 with a limited edition reprint at a RRP of $18.00!

>
>If it was just mine I could be sitting on a goldmine of at least $4.46.

That wouldn't buy you an ice cream off him these days!
;-)
BA
6/07/2012
10:14:52 AM
On 5/07/2012 dalai wrote:

>If Louise's guide is the old testament - what is my Carrigan's guide then?

And what about the "handwritten guide", the "green" guide, the "black" guide and Noddy's guide that came before "the old testament"?

(WARNING M9 style mutterings ahead)

Why, the youngsters today don't have any sense of history, when I was ...

nmonteith
6/07/2012
10:26:58 AM
The original and best was surely the 1960s RACV road map with the photo of Mitre Rock.

Eduardo Slabofvic
6/07/2012
10:38:58 AM
On 5/07/2012 climberman wrote:
>On 5/07/2012 dalai wrote:
>>If Louise's guide is the old testament - what is my Carrigan's guide
>then?
>
>Dead Sea scrolls

So that must make my 1969 Baxter guide some kind of cuneiform tablet, and my autographed Stone and Speedie guide a proto-elamite lump of clay.
climberman
6/07/2012
10:58:20 AM
On 6/07/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>On 5/07/2012 climberman wrote:
>>On 5/07/2012 dalai wrote:
>>>If Louise's guide is the old testament - what is my Carrigan's guide
>>then?
>>
>>Dead Sea scrolls
>
>So that must make my 1969 Baxter guide some kind of cuneiform tablet,
>and my autographed Stone and Speedie guide a proto-elamite lump of clay.

Yes.

We could be getting into the earliest elements of evolved speech communication if we go any further back. Creationists get worried !

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/07/2012
11:12:54 AM
On 6/07/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>The original and best was surely the 1960s RACV road map with the photo of Mitre Rock.

?
My memory reckons it was a Vic Rail poster.

My January 1959 RACV road map of Victoria 'showing paved and improved roads' only has artistic line drawing pictures on it! ...

It does have Natimuk marked on it, but misses out on a lot of other small places...
... many of which I am sure BA has checked for climbing potential back in days of yore! Heh, heh, heh.

~> Back to original topic; if someone has J E's contact (Macciza?), it would be interesting to see what his views today are on these matters!
One Day Hero
6/07/2012
1:15:39 PM
On 6/07/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>~> Back to original topic; if someone has J E's contact (Macciza?), it
>would be interesting to see what his views today are on these matters!

Ummm, he hasn't been an active climber for what?.........40 years now? What are you hoping to hear?

I'd much rather know about Ewbank's music and stuff (has he really made a living for 30yrs as folk singer?)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/07/2012
2:28:51 PM
On 6/07/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Ummm, he hasn't been an active climber for what?.........40 years now?

After the article in Rock Mag not long back, Macciza might be able to confirm otherwise?

(WARNING: ODH style ranting ahead!) ... Thanks BA ☺

What are you saying, something fuchtard or what? You reckon the Ewie grading system is no longer relevant after 40 years of armchairing withorwithoutguitar in hand?
(Where is a poll when we need one! Heh, heh, heh.)

>What are you hoping to hear?

What he thinks after/if he reads this thread. Much in the same vein as Warren Harding's writings in latter years ~> shades of glass of red wine in hand while musing from the rocking chair on verandah of old climbers home!
;-)


>I'd much rather know about Ewbank's music and stuff (has he really made
>a living for 30yrs as folk singer?)

That would be interesting too!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/07/2012
2:57:49 PM
On 5/07/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>I've been discussing this with Egosan and he's found some interesting articles
>from Ewbank on his grading system that seem to contradict rather than complement
>his earlier writing in the Blue Mountains guide.
>

Thanks for posting all the info up in one location ajf.


>And from Climb #6 (anyone have a date for this?):
>
Dec '98 - Mar '99; the last edition of a good magazine, and it is a shame it ceased...

>Anyway, I thought others might find them interesting to read.

Too right!

>Maybe contradict is the wrong word or I'm being too literal with what's written?

>The BMG article says "Grading takes the following into consideration: Technical difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors." and in the Climb article he says the number only covers the technical difficulty (2nd column, 2nd page).

I agree with simey, as I think you may have missed the context a little.

>The discussion Sol and I were having revolved around whether the quality, intricacy and difficultly or arranging of the pro should affect the grade of a route.

I would suggest it comes under the heading of 'protection', but as noted in the substantial information of Ewbank's that you have posted, this is only one consideration and they are all interlinked.

Keep it simple. We don't differentiate grading on whether or not it is a gaston or a layback etc...
Your discussion could have more relevance (imo) if the 'protection' being discussed is in the realm of the hard end spectrum of 'Mechanical climbing'; but only because that component of that particular aspect of climbing, has a greater relevance in that context than some of the other interlinked components, when taken as a whole.
One Day Hero
6/07/2012
3:20:59 PM
On 6/07/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>You reckon the Ewie grading
>system is no longer relevant after 40 years of armchairing withorwithoutguitar
>in hand?

I'm saying that tracking down a bloke who hasn't climbed much in australia since before the moon landings, and asking him what he thinks we should do about grades and stuff is pretty lame.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/07/2012
3:30:54 PM
On 6/07/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 6/07/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>You reckon the Ewie grading
>>system is no longer relevant after 40 years of armchairing withorwithoutguitar
>>in hand?
>
>I'm saying that tracking down a bloke who hasn't climbed much in australia
>since before the moon landings, and asking him what he thinks we should
>do about grades and stuff is pretty lame.

Ok, it might be lame to those only interested in how he managed to make a living as a folk singer, but as an aging climber I find it intrigueing how things change (or not) over time.

I won't be around to go nyah, nyah, Itoldyaso!, when you reach a venerable elderly age ODH, but remember me & dontcha dare let the younguns ask you what you reckon about the meaning of it all when- !
;-)

Re
>asking him what he thinks we should do about grades and stuff

No, not asking him what he thinks we should do, but simply seeking his general opinion / views of climbing, how it has changed etc, now that he has the benefit of hindsight.
~> If he really wants a challenge, we could ask him specifically what he thinks of the ODH posts on Chockstone, particularly this thread!
Heh, heh, heh.

ARidgley
6/07/2012
4:02:56 PM
On 5/07/2012 stugang wrote:
>Curious to know from other old timers but are all the inside front covers
>upside down? (i.e. with the Eastern Mountain Centre ad upside down) Or
>was it just mine or one batch?
>
>If it was just mine I could be sitting on a goldmine of at least $4.46.

Mine's the right way up. Does that make me young?
simone
6/07/2012
4:23:35 PM
On 6/07/2012 ARidgley wrote:
>On 5/07/2012 stugang wrote:
>>Curious to know from other old timers but are all the inside front covers
>>upside down? (i.e. with the Eastern Mountain Centre ad upside down) Or
>>was it just mine or one batch?
>>
>>If it was just mine I could be sitting on a goldmine of at least $4.46.
>
>Mine's the right way up. Does that make me young?

Not at all, just normal. stugang is simply holding his upside down.

Hey stuey, I will swap you singers slab for it as an example of how shit things were before the latest guide came out.

stugang
6/07/2012
4:44:14 PM
On 6/07/2012 ARidgley wrote:
>On 5/07/2012 stugang wrote:
>>Curious to know from other old timers but are all the inside front covers
>>upside down? (i.e. with the Eastern Mountain Centre ad upside down) Or
>>was it just mine or one batch?
>>
>>If it was just mine I could be sitting on a goldmine of at least $4.46.
>
>Mine's the right way up. Does that make me young?


No it makes me special. I always knew I was special.
ARidgley
6/07/2012
7:34:45 PM
On 6/07/2012 stugang wrote:
>No it makes me special. I always knew I was special.

As in special Olympics?

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 43
There are 43 messages in this topic.

 

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