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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Climbing myths

mikllaw

25/06/2012
9:29:04 AM

If you step on a rope you'll die a hideous death
If you drop a biner it will explode next time you rest on it.

http://www.geir.com/mythbuster.html


ajfclark

25/06/2012
9:45:21 AM

Good stuff Mikl.

kieranl

25/06/2012
10:25:15 AM

On 25/06/2012 Superstu wrote:
>Regarding the euro death knot, I thought the concern was not with the
>knot itself unravelling, but its ability to get snagged on something that
>helps it loosen. How we gonna mythbust dat?
>
I've never heard that one, Stu. I've been using the knot for well over 30 years and have only heard people worrying (ad nauseam) that it is so simple it will untie itself. It's also good to see that it's OK with ropes of different diameters; I have always avoided this knot with different diameter ropes but now I won't worry.


hangdog

25/06/2012
10:27:47 AM

My favourite- as told to numerous school camp abseiling participants by some dreadlocked outdoor edder. You check the tightness of your harness by sticking a fist down the front.
And my other one- (guilty of this myself until i thought about) when teaching abseiling it is important to sit in your harness with your legs out at 90 degrees.

davepalethorpe

25/06/2012
10:41:31 AM

On 25/06/2012 kieranl wrote:
>. It's also good to see that it's OK with ropes
>of different diameters; I have always avoided this knot with different
>diameter ropes but now I won't worry.

I used to think that too until I read the BD lab article:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb//qc-lab-what-is-the-best-rappel-knot


Edward Oslabofvic

25/06/2012
11:34:06 AM

Mr Poopypants

25/06/2012
1:15:02 PM

On 25/06/2012 hangdog wrote:
>My favourite- as told to numerous school camp abseiling participants by
>some dreadlocked outdoor edder. You check the tightness of your harness
>by sticking a fist down the front.
>And my other one- (guilty of this myself until i thought about) when teaching
>abseiling it is important to sit in your harness with your legs out at
>90 degrees.

I've seen you in undies, Hangdog - no way anyone's fist is fitting down the front of your harness!
(We all know how he got his netname)

patto

25/06/2012
2:51:40 PM

On 25/06/2012 Mr Poopypants wrote:
>I've seen you in undies, Hangdog - no way anyone's fist is fitting down
>the front of your harness!
>(We all know how he got his netname)

Ummmm... And this is coming from somebody called Mr Poopypants!!!??


Edward Oslabofvic

25/06/2012
2:58:28 PM

On 25/06/2012 davepalethorpe wrote:
>the BD lab article:
>

4000 Ibf??? Irritable bowel flatulence?????


muki

25/06/2012
3:03:04 PM

On 25/06/2012 Superstu wrote:

>Regarding the euro death knot, I thought the concern was not with the
>knot itself unravelling, but its ability to get snagged on something that
>helps it loosen. How we gonna mythbust dat?

The EDK or overhand flat knot is best used to prevent the snags you mention, as it has the ability to Sled over an edge as apposed to a knot where the rope exits the centre of the knot as in a barrel knot or a reef knot, the reef is particularly dangerous as it can invert or "capsize" into a slip knot and fail completely.

great site, tells it as it is.


hangdog

25/06/2012
7:36:07 PM

To clarify
You put your own fist down the front of your own harness.


JamesMc

25/06/2012
8:12:57 PM

OK here's another one. If you two ropes (ie double or twin) through the same karabiner, you risk melting / damaging them as a result if you fall.

JamesMc


Duang Daunk

25/06/2012
8:31:12 PM

On 25/06/2012 JamesMc wrote:
>OK here's another one. If you two ropes (ie double or twin) through the
>same karabiner, you risk melting / damaging them as a result if you fall.
>
>JamesMc

Sheath glazing is well documented, by not only individuals experience, but also by manufacturer recommendations, however it depends entirely on whether you are using twin or double rope technique.
Am surprised you didnt know that Jimmy!


JamesMc

25/06/2012
9:27:03 PM

Where's it documented Duang Daunk?

JamesMc

patto

25/06/2012
9:57:33 PM

On 25/06/2012 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 25/06/2012 JamesMc wrote:
>>OK here's another one. If you two ropes (ie double or twin) through the
>>same karabiner, you risk melting / damaging them as a result if you fall.
>>
>>JamesMc
>
>Sheath glazing is well documented, by not only individuals experience,
>but also by manufacturer recommendations, however it depends entirely on
>whether you are using twin or double rope technique.
>Am surprised you didnt know that Jimmy!

For starters its not considered a concern for TWIN ropes but is for half ropes when being used as such.

Despite what manufacturers may say, there is minimal risk of damage and certainly no safety risk. Do you really think the manufacturers have tested this? Or are they just repeating a myth.

In the right circumstances you could get some sort of glazing, though any sort of abrasion is going to be spread across a length of rope. Besides how is it that much different from a fall where the rope meanders on the cliff.


climbau

13/07/2012
1:58:56 PM

How do you like this one:
"Belay loops on a harness are dangerous and should be removed befor use, you wouldn't belay someone on it would you?" - heard from an instructor training new guides.
Whaddya reckon? Myth or Fact?

citationx

13/07/2012
2:14:45 PM

On 13/07/2012 climbau wrote:
>How do you like this one:
>"Belay loops on a harness are dangerous and should be removed befor use,
>you wouldn't belay someone on it would you?" - heard from an instructor
>training new guides.
>Whaddya reckon? Myth or Fact?

Which aspect is the myth of fact, that it was said by an instructor or the statement itself. (Of course I belay off a belay loop) (if it was really said by an instructor then the level of instructors pprobably needs to be questioned)

Wendy

13/07/2012
2:41:50 PM

Next climbing myth - that all people posing as climbing instructors actually are or should be instructors ...

Winston Smith

13/07/2012
3:37:50 PM

Is if true that if you climb a crack you'll break your mother's back, bolt a crappy line and you'll break your father's spine?


climbau

13/07/2012
9:49:34 PM

Unfortunately Wendy, the offender is a senior member of a particular "trade organisation". I don't even know where this myth of his would come from??????

There are 29 messages in this topic.