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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes 5
No 34

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
Retrobolting at Arapiles
11:43:27 AM
You could acquaint yourself with the great bolting debate over the dribble then. it's actually a great route and i'm not fussed about the bolts either way. thry aren't strictly necessary, but they will avoid the sort of situation my ex found hemself in - holding the belayer with one hand and the rock with the other with a third person dangling off the rope and the gear popping as the guy weighted it. you won't regret wandering up it.
12:18:29 PM
The Dribble is definitely on my list. It's one of the few easy routes on Tiger Wall that I'm yet to do (finally ticked Yo-Yo, Kaiser and Resignation last time). I'm guessing these are belay bolts? As I said, I've never found an issue creating a suitable belay at Arapiles, but I'll reserve my opinion on this.
1:27:13 PM
yeah, they are the third belay. There's gear, but it's way less obvious then the belay on Arachnus that the forementioned guy failed to find. They aren't hurting anyone or ruining the climb by being there. The start of the next pitch is quite hard and committing at the grade too. Hate to have some bumbly factor 2 onto a marginal belay.
1:34:43 PM
chop all araps bolts starting with the hgher grades down. It will keep the wogs away
2:47:52 PM
How can you fail to find belays on Arachnus? I mean, seriously.

We really can't sanitise climbs to be safe for all. Bumblies (and I still class myself as one) should be sensible enough to start their apprenticeships on climbs they can't fall off that start at the ground. There is a danger that expectation can lead to more danger rather than more safety. Arapiles is the ideal place to learn trad because the gear is (generally) so plentiful and so good. It's hard to make is any simpler than that.

No rant intended about this particular case. Fear must remain our friend. Complacency is the enemy, not fear.
3:29:31 PM
Yeah, the guy on Arachnus was impressive. My ex had only just met him, promptly supplemented the belay, lead the rest of the route and refused to climb with him again
10:55:28 PM
On 27/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>That doesn't mean that the results of these polls are junk though. I find
>the Araps and Bungonia ones pretty interesting.
>Araps received a decisive vote for "take your drill and shove it" (hope
>you picked up on that Kieran and the NBF). Seems that a lot of folk on
>chocky have gotten attached to the crag in its current state
As I said before, bullshit.
Your poll says that people don't support retroing of easier climbs to make them more attractive - not "take your drill and shove it".
There is no general move to retro existing easier climbs to make them more attractive. I can think of only two easier climbs that have been retroed like this in the last 20 years - Bygone, which I disagree with, and Discord Direct, where I put a bolt back into the start and another was added for some new climbing on the direct finish.
Your much-vaunted poll just reflects the status quo, big feckin surprise.
As to peg runners being replaced with bolts, if fixed gear is needed I think that's the way to go. However I've not done any peg-replacing myself - too many other things to do. There's a ton of hypocrisy about this one. I'll continue to take your whingeing about the bolt on Kachoong with a grain of salt until you make a stand against the replacement of the upside down peg on Punks In The Gunks with a bolt for Punks In The Gym.
I actually counted up my bolts at Arapiles - in the last 10 years I think it comes to 16 bolt runners which is probably a few more than for the previous 10 years. Then there's 6 or 7 rap anchors in the last 10 years. I never knew I was such a bolting demon.
What a waste of time and space all this crap you're trying to whip up is.
9:15:50 AM
The punks one gets better. The original fixed wire breaks many years ago. Someone replaces it with a bolt. Someone else chops it. Original placement is rebuilt and replaced. A few years ago, it breaks again. The original chopper goes back and puts another bolt in because he wants to do the route now.

Bugger the easy routes, the ethical controversy at araps is on the hard stuff.
9:40:57 AM
I've only climbed at Araps for the last couple of years (30-40 climbing days), and with the exceptions of rap anchors, have clipped... two bolts (being the 3rd belay on Dribble - there was probably enough gear for the anchor but I was lazy). Some of Mitre may have too many rap anchors, but it seems to me to be the "harder" (20+?) routes that are generating some bolting controversy...

Retroing easy classics at Araps may result in me learning how to chop.

10:28:03 AM
On 28/06/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>Retroing easy classics at Araps may result in me learning how to chop.
Anthony, the only person talking about retroing easy classics at Araps is ODH. It isn't happening, isn't on the radar, it's a beat-up. If it was a parrot it would be hanging sideways from feet nailed to its perch.

10:32:11 AM
On 28/06/2012 kieranl wrote:
>If it was
>a parrot it would be hanging sideways from feet nailed to its perch.

10:48:36 AM
Kieran, I'm aware it's a Norwegian Blue, I thought I'd actually respond to the original question though. From what I've heard I've clipped most of the "new" bolts on climbs <18 at Araps... while getting ready to rap. And I'll agree that a lot of those were the most sustainable option (and the rest were near enough I can't get stressed over them).
10:55:13 AM
Fixed wire above the crux on Punks has finally been replaced with a bolt? About time... Fixed wire glued in a rebuilt placement was silly.
11:55:04 AM
it was silly. the fickle behavior was also silly
5:57:22 PM
On 28/06/2012 kieranl wrote:
>Anthony, the only person talking about retroing easy classics at Araps
>is ODH. It isn't happening, isn't on the radar, it's a beat-up.

Except Bygone. Well perhaps it doesn't fit the classic category. I soloed it when it was undergraded because I could see it had little in the way of gear anyway. Do I now feel duped? Not really. Am I glad to hear it's been bolted. Not really. If someone put a bolt in (say) Missing Link would I be upset. Damn tootin' I would. Why the difference? Because at my abilities at the time Missing Link was bold and Bygone wasn't. But why deny a 14 climber the same boldness?

I don't understand, but it's not rant worthy either.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
There are 35 messages in this topic.


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