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Honnold & Florine break Nose speed record- 2:23:51

ARidgley

21-Jun-2012
2:18:07 PM


nmonteith

21-Jun-2012
2:27:09 PM

Is there any video of some of the these speed ascents? I'd be interested to see exactly how fast they are moving.

maxdacat

21-Jun-2012
2:48:05 PM

On 21/06/2012 simey wrote:

>Usually you bring some commonsense to Chockstone Damo, but this time you
>are spouting pure horse shit.>
>That means in 44 years there has only been a 6cm gain in the world long
>jump record - an improvement of just 1.66%. Yet many of you clowns reckon
>the Nose record will be slashed by another 24 mins (an improvement of 16.5%)
>in just a few years!
>

>
I think you're overlooking the amount of variable present in an undertaking like the Nose. You're talking about 30 or so pitches, each with decisions about ropework, gear, belays and style. One would imagine there is some scope for improvement. If you're so sure about writing off the possibility of sub 2hrs then you should say where the limit is....or has it been reached? Comparisons with a 10 second event are not exactly straightforward.


Snappy

21-Jun-2012
2:50:27 PM

On 21/06/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>Is there any video of some of the these speed ascents? I'd be interested
>to see exactly how fast they are moving.

I'd guess about 6.1m/minute...

:-)

simey

21-Jun-2012
2:52:33 PM

I have seen some video on Youtube and they don't look like they are moving particularly quickly, but then again that is climbing. They need to be in total control given they are running it out considerably at times.

If you do the maths - 880m over 144mins equates to 6.1m per min, or under 10mins for every 60m rope length. Placing and removing gear, fixing ropes, anchors, exchanging gear and jumaring is all included in that too obviously.

simey

21-Jun-2012
3:02:30 PM

On 21/06/2012 maxdacat wrote:
>I think you're overlooking the amount of variable present in an undertaking
>like the Nose. You're talking about 30 or so pitches, each with decisions
>about ropework, gear, belays and style. One would imagine there is some
>scope for improvement.

What planet are you on? Hans Florine has broken the speed record on the Nose on 7 different occasions since 1990 and also climbed the Nose dozens of other times as well. I'm pretty sure he has given some thought to minimising ropework and gear faff.


Goshen

21-Jun-2012
3:07:44 PM

Simey; has there been much in way of 'speed' climbing at Arapiles? It's always been a pet project of mine to do a 1000m in a day (7-10 multipitch routes). Obviously running up grade 7's with no gear would be easy; but I was thinking a harder mix...

gfdonc

21-Jun-2012
3:11:56 PM

On 21/06/2012 simey wrote:

>If you do the maths - 880m over 224mins equates to 6.1m per min, or under

errr .. I do, and the answer to 880/224 = 3.92 according to my calculator.

Don't forget there is some aiding along the way which must slow them down considerably.
Plus the King Swing.

Perspective: that rate is 7.2 minutes per pitch (assuming the 'standard' definition of 31 pitches) for both climbers.

simey

21-Jun-2012
3:15:38 PM

That should read 144 mins not 224 mins. Sorry, I typed the wrong figure (now fixed).

kieranl

21-Jun-2012
3:23:03 PM

On 21/06/2012 simey wrote:
>For all we know the time set by Hans and Honnold might actually stop other
>parties from having a serious crack. Those who gave it everything on previous
>ascents might just accept that this new time is out of their league and
>not worth the risk. If that is the case, this record might just stand for
>a long, long time.
>
>
Yes, climbers are so uncompetitive and risk-averse ;)
I would guess that the biggest problem would be boredom. You've got to have the ability and then commit to spending an enormous amount of time on the route working each section to death.
At present this doesn't look like the time limit. It's a good jump from the previous time which suggests that it was either a freak event (like Beamon's altitude-assisted jump in Mexico) or that there is still a fair bit of fat in the time, relatively speaking.

simey

21-Jun-2012
3:23:20 PM

On 21/06/2012 Goshen wrote:
>Simey; has there been much in way of 'speed' climbing at Arapiles? It's
>always been a pet project of mine to do a 1000m in a day (7-10 multipitch
>routes). Obviously running up grade 7's with no gear would be easy; but
>I was thinking a harder mix...

I understand Peter Croft once soloed over 80 pitches of moderate to harder stuff one morning at Arapiles. I'm guessing that involved over 1000m of climbing. He wasn't trying to break any records though. He was simply a enjoying a day out. It would have been around the same era when Peter held the speed record on the Nose. Gives you some idea of just how good the guys breaking the Nose record have been.

JDB

21-Jun-2012
3:24:35 PM

I don't think anyone will ever be able to climb Simey's nose in under two hours........

simey

21-Jun-2012
3:27:25 PM

Well it is a seriously big roof you have to negotiate before you pull onto the slabby rounded arete with all that exposure.

ARidgley

21-Jun-2012
3:30:36 PM

dalai

21-Jun-2012
3:30:38 PM

On 21/06/2012 simey wrote:
>I understand Peter Croft once soloed over 80 pitches of moderate to harder
>stuff one morning at Arapiles. I'm guessing that involved over 1000m of
>climbing. He wasn't trying to break any records though. He was simply a
>enjoying a day out. Would have been around the time that Peter held the
>speed record on the Nose. Gives you some idea of just how good the guys
>breaking the Nose record are, even over twenty years ago.

Wasn't it more like he soloed 110 hard pitches in a day at Arapiles in Australia with Geoff Weigand following close behind?

ARidgley

21-Jun-2012
3:35:28 PM

On 21/06/2012 simey wrote:
>On 21/06/2012 Goshen wrote:
>>Simey; has there been much in way of 'speed' climbing at Arapiles? It's
>>always been a pet project of mine to do a 1000m in a day (7-10 multipitch
>>routes). Obviously running up grade 7's with no gear would be easy;
>but
>>I was thinking a harder mix...
>
>I understand Peter Croft once soloed over 80 pitches of moderate to harder
>stuff one morning at Arapiles. I'm guessing that involved over 1000m of
>climbing. He wasn't trying to break any records though. He was simply a
>enjoying a day out. It would have been around the same era when Peter held
>the speed record on the Nose. Gives you some idea of just how good the
>guys breaking the Nose record have been.

I was lucky enough to witness that on my first ever climbing holiday (November 1985 I think). He and Weigand soloed up and down pretty much every pitch on the organ pipes while I sat in my chair and drank coffee in the Pines. I later saw him hanging off Resignation by one arm chalking up. He sold me some wires he found because "I don't use the stuff". I had no idea who he was at the time.

One Day Hero

21-Jun-2012
3:42:53 PM

On 21/06/2012 simey wrote:

>The fact that you ran 100m at primary school in your
>little sports uniform isn't making Usain Bolt's record appear any better
>in my book

I can't believe how much you're missing the point here! It isn't my mediocre sprinting career which makes Usain Bolt's records impressive, it's the fact that I was out there competing in the exact same event that Usain competes in........and pretty much every kid everywhere has a crack at sprinting. So you are effectively talent identifying the entire planet, with those who show potential receiving the training and direct competition they need to get to their best. 99% of the people on the planet have never put on climbing shoes, 99% of those who have will never climb the Nose, 95% of those who climb the Nose will never go back for a second run, 99% of those who go back for a second run will never go and do the dozen runs needed to wire it enough for a shot at the title................what the fuch has it got to do with the 100m sprint?

Now to the other bit you're failing to understand......comparing a Nose record to any other racing is rather silly. It's a fuching wierd race! There's only one circuit you're allowed to race on (it happens to be in Hans's back yard), you and I aren't allowed to stay there for more than 2 weeks, and there's a bunch of people walking around and sleeping on the track as you try to go for your record!?! There is no event I can think of in the world of sport which has a higher home ground advantage. I think you're being a bit rude saying Uli Steck didn't do very well. It's like he plays a different sport, then dipped his toe into speed Nosing for a couple of days and didn't immediately do better than the specialists, therefore he's shit?!?

Anyway, I'm not disagreeing with your suggestion that 2hrs is safe for a while, just disagreeing with why.
>
>Below is a list of record holders. Look at those names. There aren't too
>many mugs amongst them.
>
There is, however, a very high percentage of people who lived in the valley long term. And the rest probably crashed on those guys couches for months at a time over a couple of years..............home ground advantage!

simey

21-Jun-2012
4:19:57 PM

Gee Damo, I make a quip about Alex Honnold being the Usain Bolt of this generation and you climb out of your box to convince me that it doesn't hold true.

For a start, what a crock that the entire planet is effectively talent spotting every kid who runs the 100m. I'm sure there are a stack of under priveleged kids around the world who have never competed in a 100m event, yet alone get talent spotted just because they show some form.

And even if they did show talent, what makes you think that they even want to become a sprinter? They might choose to play soccer, or footy, or even cricket if that is what they prefer. 100m sprinting is a pretty specialised activity that isn't practised by too many people. How many folk do you know who run 100m flat out? Sweet FA I bet.

In contrast, people get into climbing and commit to it full-time despite the lack of fame and fortune and quickly find out what aspect of it they are most suited to. And guess what? They don't need to actually solo big walls to find out whether they are suited to it or not!

Now you seem to imply that Honnold isn't such a hot-shot and that it only because of his home ground advantage. More nonsense. Yosemite is the Mecca and climbers from around the world for generations have wangled ways to stay there for extended periods and strive to prove themselves there. The idea that the Huber Bros and Yuji Hiriyama had mates and a couch to doss on is your bullshit way of defending your home ground advantage theory.

I seem to recall that Honnold went to the UK and totally kicked ass on grit. Obviously even when he was away from his home ground he still makes an impression.

And that is why I will stick with my call. In fact, given Alex's feats (where he has done things no one even imagined doing and where he puts his life on the line in doing so), I think it would be more accurate to refer to Usain as the Alex Honnold of the sprinting world.


sliamese

21-Jun-2012
5:54:13 PM

I agree with simey, i dont think u guys get how good honnold is. While i do believe someone will clock in sub 2, not for a while. When the guy who knows the most about speeding climbing teams up with someone in another sratosphere of ability compared to anyone else alive, nobodys really gonna go much quicker.

Home ground advantage? U think all these guys were born and grew up in the valley or they're just psyched? If you were psyched...

Someone has new ideas? Its crazy the beta all the people trying to speed up the nose have worked out. Anyone serious about it could probably describe the left foothold you use to clip the #3 sawnoff in pitch 26. But usually its not 30 pitches, its 2 or in hans and alexs run 4 i believe. Thats a 250m pitch, think you you'd do that. I found doing ozy direct in two pitches was hard enough!

One Day Hero

21-Jun-2012
6:40:27 PM

On 21/06/2012 sliamese wrote:
>Home ground advantage? U think all these guys were born and grew up in
>the valley or they're just psyched? If you were psyched...
>
Yeah, you're right man. How about Lee and Jake? Didn't they do one of the fastest ever onsights of that thing which was faster that a couple of Hans's world records? Pity they aren't psyched enough to go back and take a shot at the title. If only those guys were psyched they might have actually turned into good climbers.

I don't think you guys get how good Bolt is!!!

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