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Honnold & Florine break Nose speed record- 2:23:51

singersmith

19-Jun-2012
6:48:28 PM

On 19-Jun-2012 simey wrote:
>On 19/06/2012 singersmith wrote:
>>What are we betting, Simey?
>
>Well if you think another Alex is going to pop up in the near future and
>the original Alex will still be around to climb with him and the fact that
>this new team will not only break the current record but also smash off
>another 24mins... well if you think all these things will come into play
>sometime in the next twenty years I will happily devote my time to cleaning
>whatever new or existing route at Buffalo you think requires such attention.
>And if I should win you can buy me a slab of beers.

Done [spits in palm, shakes]. I'll provide the goggles and respirator you're going to need.

One Day Hero

19-Jun-2012
7:00:25 PM

On 19/06/2012 simey wrote:
>
>To be talking about breaking 2 hours up the Nose is the equivalent of
>breaking 8 secs for 100m. And I would argue that Alex Honnold is the Usain
>Bolt of this generation when it comes to speed climbing and soloing big
>walls. I will happily take bets with anyone that no one will break 2 hours
>for the Nose in the next 20 years.

Bullshit simey! Could you come up with a dumber comparison? There have been millions of people who have lined up over a couple of thousand years to try and be the fastest sprinter. Trained their arses off, competed, and gotten a result of some sort. Even if they never get amazingly good, they are all putting their hat in the ring to be the fastest sprinter around.

How many different people have had a genuine go at cranking fast up the Nose? 30? 50? It must be close to the most specialised competitive event there is. You pretty much need to live in Yosemite for a couple of years, do the route at least a dozen times, memorize every hold and every placement, before you'd even think about having a shot. And out of this tiny gene pool of people, you've identified the Usain Bolt of Nose climbing? Care to tell me who is the Usain Bolt of regional victorian footy? How about the Usain Bolt of lawn bowls?

simey

19-Jun-2012
7:07:46 PM

On 19/06/2012 singersmith wrote:
>Done [spits in palm, shakes]. I'll provide the goggles and respirator you're
>going to need.

I'm sure you have a route in mind that will be hell on earth to clean. However I am quietly confident that in twenty years I will be enjoying some free beer.


Duang Daunk

19-Jun-2012
8:36:33 PM

On 19/06/2012 simey wrote:
>I will happily take bets with anyone that no one will break 2 hours
>for the Nose in the next 20 years.

I'll bet you your little black conquest book of chicks names and addresses that you are wrong. If I am wrong I'll give you mine.

simey

20-Jun-2012
12:11:33 AM

On 19/06/2012 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 19/06/2012 simey wrote:
>>I will happily take bets with anyone that no one will break 2 hours
>>for the Nose in the next 20 years.
>I'll bet you your little black conquest book of chicks names and addresses
>that you are wrong. If I am wrong I'll give you mine.

I don't think it is such a fair bet if the only thing I can win is a single phone number written down on a scrap of paper.


nmonteith

20-Jun-2012
7:30:30 AM

Can we make the time period of this bet 5 years? Betting a book of Simeys geriatric retirement home conquests doesn't really have the same appeal. I reckon we will see sub 2 hours within a few years.

baz74

20-Jun-2012
8:17:08 AM

I think sub 2 hours is not likely in the next few years but is worth considering Honnold started after Hans and finished before him. In Hans Florine's own words he puts Honnold's time at about 2 hours 15 minutes. Still a fair way off 2hrs.

I think it would be interesting to see what time Alex Honnold could do the bottom to the end of the king swing. He might be quicker as he is willing to take big risks (free solo) where Hans pushes the envelope but still places gear and by all accounts is 'safe'. He accepts monster runouts but seems to limit risk by placing numerous pieces especially low down. In photos on Supertopo he appears to place about 6 pieces (of the 16 piece rack!) in the first pitch. From there they place less gear as they get higher, I guess falling half a rope length is an acceptable risk if they won't deck.

I can't see the record going unless the whole route can be free soloed but I am not sure anyone will free solo the great roof or changing corners pitch anytime soon, and then how to you do the Kingswing without a rope? (not counted as a speed ascent if you bypass the Kingswing with the chipped Jardine Traverse). Maybe Honnold will do a Dean Potter style roped solo/ free solo and break the record again.

Main question for me what will fall first Honnold or the sub 2 hour Nose record?


cruze

20-Jun-2012
9:02:20 AM

On 20/06/2012 baz74 wrote:
>I think sub 2 hours is not likely in the next few years but is worth considering
>Honnold started after Hans and finished before him. In Hans Florine's
>own words he puts Honnold's time at about 2 hours 15 minutes. Still a fair
>way off 2hrs.

Is this a function of doing two blocks and simul climbing? Both people can't use the same holds at the same time.

baz74

20-Jun-2012
9:19:45 AM

Climbed in two blocks so Alex was belaying until there is a ropelength out then simuclimbs, after the Kingswing Alex leads and Hans simuclimbs or jugs. So it works out Alex starts a few minutes later and finishes a few minutes earlier. Same as swinging leads on a two pitch route the guy who seconds the first pitch climbs through so is on the rock less time.


cruze

20-Jun-2012
9:43:04 AM

Yeah, so If you have two identical climbers, one is still going to be longer on the route than the other. So I don't really see how Alex's time on the route is an indication of how much faster he is than Hans.

baz74

20-Jun-2012
12:14:58 PM

look at the time saving on the triple when Honnold soloed without Cardwell. It would be possible to maybe go quicker solo or with a partner who was willing to solo all except a maybe the great roof the changing corners pitch.

It might be answered in a few days if Honnold decides to go solo and break his own record as he did with the triple crown earlier this season. I hope not though as Hans is the man and I would like see his record stand for another 20 years (and then see him come out at age 70 and reclaim it again).


sliamese

20-Jun-2012
1:09:44 PM

I reckon sub 2 hours is as likely as someone flashing 9a+...


Duang Daunk

20-Jun-2012
1:10:44 PM

On 20/06/2012 simey wrote:
>I don't think it is such a fair bet if the only thing I can win is a single
>phone number written down on a scrap of paper.
>
How did you know that? but you might change your mind when you realise it is the Sheiks harem number along with its pin code that enables bypassing all security.


cruze

20-Jun-2012
1:20:41 PM

I reckon Dean Potter would have tried soloing the whole thing if he thought it was quicker than speed climbing with a teammate. I think it is a whole new step up to shrink the (slim) safety margins provided by speed climbing to zero by soloing and expect to move at the same pace as speed climbing. But then I am only guessing. I struggle to do anything quickly.


ajfclark

20-Jun-2012
1:47:25 PM

On 20/06/2012 sliamese wrote:
>I reckon sub 2 hours is as likely as someone flashing 9a+...

I didn't really pay attention, how close did Ondra get in his recent attempt to flash 5.15a?

Cam McKenzie

20-Jun-2012
2:07:55 PM

On 20/06/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>I didn't really pay attention, how close did Ondra get in his
recent attempt to flash 5.15a?

I read an interview with him somewhere (ukclimbing.com maybe), and he said that he fell off the crux of the extension, but that he was too pumped to be able to finish the route anyway.

So, not that close I guess.

gfdonc

20-Jun-2012
2:18:19 PM

On 20/06/2012 simey wrote:

>I don't think it is such a fair bet if the only thing I can win is a single
>phone number written down on a scrap of paper.

Paper? I thought he was referring to the wall of the Nati public toilets?

One Day Hero

20-Jun-2012
2:50:35 PM

On 20/06/2012 baz74 wrote:
>look at the time saving on the triple when Honnold soloed without Cardwell.

You do realise that the team effort was free, don't you? A bunch of hard pitches up to 29ish? led and seconded free (including a couple where one of the climbers fell, so they lowered and started the pitch again).

Seems like the fastest way to move is simulclimbing where potential falls have no consequence. So they're balancing out the time taken to place gear (and how much it slows things down to carry the gear) against how fast they're prepared to climb in a situation where falling isn't ok.

baz74

20-Jun-2012
5:33:36 PM

No I didn't realize that ODH, that makes a big difference in time.


ChuckNorris

20-Jun-2012
8:42:30 PM

On 19/06/2012 ajfclark wrote:

>

Ollie - oh ollie....see this is the rack you'll need for big walling. My advice - stop listening to amateurs like ODL and CJ, but take advice from big wall pro's like these guys.

That is, sell one of your bro's jumars and most of your rack and his, you'll make a tidy profit. Double for nothing if you sell that set of jugs that shorty offered ya for nothing. You'll be quids in and possibly be able to afford that upgrade to business class for the trip over.

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