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Honnold & Florine break Nose speed record- 2:23:51


Superstu

18-Jun-2012
6:41:13 PM

I predict there will be regular ascents under 2 hours in 2020, mostly due to the arrival of anti-gravity backpacks. Unhindered by any rope or concern for falling, climbers will be dyno-ing and throwing themselves up such routes.

I also predict the fastest time will be done in mid winter, to take advantage of the cooler temperatures. Global warming will have made summer climbing in the Valley unbearable.

J.C.

18-Jun-2012
7:25:40 PM

And I predict that the rangers will still be a bunch of c--ts

One Day Hero

18-Jun-2012
8:00:56 PM

Does anyone really care that much about guys they've never met shaving diminishing fractions off a speed record? Sure, if you were one of the people going for the record it would be lots of fun, but as a spectator sport?

I reckon that taking the nose from a multiday crawl to one long day was a cool step, reducing it to a half day was a cool step, Florine and Croft reducing it to a 3hr jaunt without even carrying a t shirt was sweet.

Now that they're competing to shave minutes while not really innovating any new style, why is everyone jizzing their pants? It isn't that exciting anymore, same as watching the 100m. Without the official time showing, you won't be able to distinguish between the world record run or any of dozens of other runs. It's looks the same, but done at a minutely quicker pace which is imperceptible to most observers. Time trialling makes for sucky viewing.


wallwombat

18-Jun-2012
8:46:27 PM

I think the only one who seems to really care is Hans Florine.

Everyone else just goes for the record to piss him off.


shortman

18-Jun-2012
9:55:03 PM

Doesn't it trip anyone else out that people time their climbs?

2hrs, 2.23, 8hrs, same shit, different mindset.


nmonteith

18-Jun-2012
9:59:32 PM

I've watched some guys doing a speed ascent of the Nose from the meadows and it was a damn impressive spectator sport!


shortman

18-Jun-2012
10:01:30 PM

On 18/06/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>I've watched some guys doing a speed ascent of the Nose from the meadows
>and it was a damn impressive spectator sport!

Fair enough. Reckon I'd enjoy watching that too.


benjenga

18-Jun-2012
10:16:15 PM

On 18/06/2012 simey wrote:
>On 18/06/2012 benjenga wrote:
>>2:23:51 gee that is quick, I guess now the pressure will be on to see
>if
>>anyone can ever break the 2 hour mark?
>
>I'm guessing you have no real idea of what climbing the Nose involves
>and just how much effort over decades has gone into reaching that time
>of just under 2:24. The idea that there is now pressure to knock off another
>24 minutes from a time that has just been set by two of the world's most
>experienced and outstanding speed climbers currently at the top of their
>game shows a fairly poor understanding of what they have just achieved.
>
Well I have never speed climbed the nose so I don't have hands on experance of how it feels. But as the record gets shorter every couple of years you never know what may happen in the future.


pmonks

19-Jun-2012
1:42:01 AM

Far more impressive to me would be the longest uninterrupted ascent of The Nose. Obviously there'd have to be some rules e.g. you can't rap back to the ground except to resupply, and even then you can't set foot on the ground itself.


Superstu

19-Jun-2012
7:29:31 AM

Solo dan's ten day ascent last september was a pretty good effort considering it was his first el cap route, he had some epic hauls at the start of the route where it is a slab. I have heard stories of chongo hitchhiking the nose with 31 cans of beer in the pig (payment for each pitch he would jug on other people's ropes).


ajfclark

19-Jun-2012
8:25:22 AM

Looks like they took a lighter rack than I've carried up single pitches... (except for the single jumar).


Superstu

19-Jun-2012
8:35:42 AM

There is a shitload of fixed mank up there ...

ARidgley

19-Jun-2012
12:24:52 PM

Single pitch route? I take more when changing lightglobes.
But that's just so I can show off my rack to the kids.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

19-Jun-2012
12:59:03 PM

On 19/06/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>Looks like they took a lighter rack than I've carried up single pitches...
>(except for the single jumar).
>

Caldwell and Honnold are carrying less here!

On 19/06/2012 pmonks wrote:
>Far more impressive to me would be the longest uninterrupted ascent of
>The Nose. Obviously there'd have to be some rules e.g. you can't rap back
>to the ground except to resupply, and even then you can't set foot on the
>ground itself.
>
~>Harding, et al, have set that record but would disagree with your rules!
;-)


cruze

19-Jun-2012
1:08:45 PM

What's in the little Petzl bag?


Miguel75

19-Jun-2012
1:46:55 PM

On 19/06/2012 cruze wrote:
>What's in the little Petzl bag?

Light weight aider?


cruze

19-Jun-2012
2:01:26 PM

Nah. Coca leaves.

simey

19-Jun-2012
3:36:13 PM

On 18/06/2012 jono_1 wrote:
>On 18/06/2012 simey wrote:
>>On 18/06/2012 benjenga wrote:
>>>2:23:51 gee that is quick, I guess now the pressure will be on to see
>>if
>>>anyone can ever break the 2 hour mark?
>>
>>I'm guessing you have no real idea of what climbing the Nose involves
>>and just how much effort over decades has gone into reaching that time
>>of just under 2:24. The idea that there is now pressure to knock off
>another
>>24 minutes from a time that has just been set by two of the world's most
>>experienced and outstanding speed climbers currently at the top of their
>>game shows a fairly poor understanding of what they have just achieved.
>>
>
>But who would have thought 10-15 years ago that people could solo, often
>without a rope, these routes. Then along came Dean Potter and now this
>Honnold lad.
>
>And who though that Usain Bolt could run 9.59 s in the 100 meter sprint
>in 2009.
>
>According to a bunch of maths nerds 9.59 s over 100 m would not be possible
>until about 2060. But then along came Usain. see link below http://www.guardian.co.uk/spor
>/2011/nov/15/usain-bolt-sprinters-100m
>
>I'm sure sometime in the near future some guys/gals will come along and
>smash 2hrs up the Nose.

To be talking about breaking 2 hours up the Nose is the equivalent of breaking 8 secs for 100m. And I would argue that Alex Honnold is the Usain Bolt of this generation when it comes to speed climbing and soloing big walls. I will happily take bets with anyone that no one will break 2 hours for the Nose in the next 20 years.

singersmith

19-Jun-2012
4:52:04 PM

That's actually a slightly heavy rack for a NIAD. I would ditch the doubled cams but add a small HB nut for the Changing Corners and a cam hook on each daisy. But they are doing two pitches instead of the usual four so the extra gear is reasonable. A huge percentage of the route consists of 5.9/5.10 moves, just lots of them in a row; thus, if you're comfortable soloing 5.10 then a 5 hour time is quite achievable.

As was said above, there's a fair bit of fixed gear but mostly for a speed ascent you're just clipping the belays and leaving one piece per pitch plus maybe one fixed pin. The fixed mank really comes into play on the Great Roof though.

Hans is The Man, there is no question (although I once got shut down on the Nutcracker with him) but he is creeping up on 50. If there were two of Alex, which is to say somebody comfortable soloing 5.12 (or.13 for that matter) I think a sub two hour is within reach. What are we betting, Simey?

simey

19-Jun-2012
5:47:38 PM

On 19/06/2012 singersmith wrote:
>What are we betting, Simey?

Well if you think another Alex is going to pop up in the near future and the original Alex will still be around to climb with him and the fact that this new team will not only break the current record but also smash off another 24mins... well if you think all these things will come into play sometime in the next twenty years I will happily devote my time to cleaning whatever new or existing route at Buffalo you think requires such attention. And if I should win you can buy me a slab of beers.

There are 106 messages in this topic.