Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Petzl: P63L - PAW Rigging Plate. 36 kN (3600kg) Avoid cross loading on karabiners, spread out efficiency of anchors, or just keep lines neat and uncluttered with this versatile rigging plate. One only at this price! $99.00
27% Off

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

dry tooling at your local crag


maxots

9/06/2004
9:15:01 PM

on the subject of sea cliff drytooling, was reading some "greatest climbs" or some such >

had dry tooling on CHALK >< LUNATIC Or WHAT

anyone know much more about this (it was on the coast of england, ive stood on those cliffs, and seeing the rate of decay I wouldnt even stand 50 metres near the edge let alone climb it !

crazy


nmonteith

10/06/2004
9:07:21 AM

Yep - its quite a popular event on the chalk cliffs of dover. Apparently the climbs falls down each year so it s new route frenzy every 12 months. They use bashed in warthog pitons are protection. It is not drytooling as such - you actually can embed the iceaxe into the 'rock' like ice climbing.


shaggy

10/06/2004
10:28:33 AM

It's just like climbing at buller, not only is the ice different every year, so is the rock ;)

huwj

17/04/2012
2:17:38 PM

Resurrecting a vintage thread :-) Am keen to get some dry tooling action in over the winter. Of course, I'd prefer to be on real ice but this is Australia after all...

So can anyone provide anything more specific on good areas in and around Melbourne to crack out the crampons and axes? I'm pretty new to the state so not sure where to start looking for details of mixed routes.

Mt Buller sounds like a good start... any recommended guidebooks that might help me out in that area?

Cheers


nmonteith

17/04/2012
2:21:13 PM

http://www.chockstone.org/MtBogong/MtBogong.htm
http://www.chockstone.org/MtBulla/MtBulla.htm

huwj

20/04/2012
1:43:08 PM

Thanks Neil – just what I was after. Not sure how I hadn't spotted it earlier!

Cheers

neald

27/04/2012
7:58:28 AM

There's lots going on in NZ and you can get direct flights to Queenstown in a little over 3 hours. In terms of events this winter there's the NZAC winter Darrans meet first week of July and the inaugural Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival in August (amongst others I'm sure). I'll be at both.

uwhp510

27/04/2012
11:11:39 AM

If you can jag the right conditions at Buller, it can be quite good. There's only really one water ice route, but the mixed climbing is pretty fun.

This is Way Out in the West.

And this one is called Party at the Boss's House. It's further west than everything in the guide (and substantially harder).

Take pitons and a few nuts/cams. Leave the ice screws at home :)

There are 28 messages in this topic.