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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
Author
How do you grade this?

skink
21/05/2012
10:19:35 AM
On 21/05/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 21/05/2012 cruze wrote:
>>It's a grade 20/21 granite face climb with a "bouldery start".
>
>Bam. Spot on. If you want to call it a route - then build a large tottering
>rock cairn to eliminate the stupid start. I certainly would.

No need for a cairn:

>A variant could be done through a V3-V4 traverse into the sloper rail then up through the same territory.

This is the route, what you call the variant. Your contrived "hard" start is the (probably worthless) variant.

Duang Daunk
21/05/2012
10:25:40 AM
Hoo starts roots draggin their bum in the dirt? Thats reserved for people who use mats not gear.
stugang
21/05/2012
10:59:08 AM
if this whole situation is for real, and davidn really does exist, and really does have a problem with the concept that a climb can be graded more difficult than its hardest move (for whatever reason).

I know its a lot of ifs, but if all of that is true and IF he is using an example of an 8m bolted granite boulder to try and understand, then I do admire his determination (sort of like swinging from a tree in a park to try and understand bridge jumping - kind of sweet really).

But, from what I hear I reckon even old Eweback would be happy for that one to be graded by its hardest move - so juist call it V6/7 AND bolt it so both route climbers and boulderers can think of you as a pussy.
gfdonc
21/05/2012
11:26:25 AM
Bolt ladder with an M1 start would be the 'traditional' way of doing it ..

shortman
21/05/2012
11:26:51 AM
On 21/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>if this whole situation is for real, and davidn really does exist, and
>really does have a problem with the concept that a climb can be graded
>more difficult than its hardest move (for whatever reason).
>
>I know its a lot of ifs, but if all of that is true and IF he is using
>an example of an 8m bolted granite boulder to try and understand, then
>I do admire his determination (sort of like swinging from a tree in a park
>to try and understand bridge jumping - kind of sweet really).
>


>But, from what I hear I reckon even old Eweback would be happy for that
>one to be graded by its hardest move - so juist call it V6/7 AND bolt it
>so both route climbers and boulderers can think of you as a pussy.
>

Apparently it's not bolted, but rather took fiddly gear????

davidn
21/05/2012
12:04:46 PM
No need for a bolt ladder, it's got a small crack (and I'm not going to build a 4-5 foot tall cairn on a downhill slope). It's not a sit start either, the sit start is harder (and shittier, probably not worth the trouble). The start is the highest someone of my height (6'2) and ape index (nfi/don't care) can reach. 20M1/V7 then. Thanks - among all the grumpy route climber responses, you guys answered the question.
stugang
21/05/2012
12:11:59 PM
On 21/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>No need for a bolt ladder, it's got a small crack (and I'm not going to
>build a 4-5 foot tall cairn on a downhill slope). It's not a sit start
>either, the sit start is harder (and shittier, probably not worth the trouble).
> The start is the highest someone of my height (6'2) and ape index (nfi/don't
>care) can reach. 20M1/V7 then. Thanks - among all the grumpy route climber
>responses, you guys answered the question.

Even better - now aid climbers, route climbers and boulderers will think of you as a pussy.

Now all you need to do is do it in winter and give it an alpine grade as well.

Duang Daunk
21/05/2012
12:31:52 PM
He hasnt done the root yet or els he wouldve answerd the questions put to him on the other page

>Have you done the route yet?
>If so and on rope, did you lead it or toprope it?



ravinn wrote
>20M1/V7

That implies it involves all three of those grades. it is one or the other so make up ur mind fer chissake, an like hero wants a piccy, yeh show us a piccy (if U did it) or it never hapnd.
One Day Hero
21/05/2012
1:00:47 PM
On 21/05/2012 davidn wrote:
> The start is the highest someone of my height (6'2) and ape index (nfi/don't
>care) can reach. 20M1/V7 then.

Ooh that's so clever, you've added something in there to troll shorties as well. Truly you are such a witty master manipulator.

This thing only exists in davidn's head..........however, he may feel free to disprove that allegation by telling me where it is. I will then go out there with a camera, tape measure, and climbing shoes.

Seriously dave, your woody was a great laugh, but that was a while ago. Give us some new material.
Estey
21/05/2012
1:25:25 PM
Dave,

I'd go with the Cruzers grading methodology. I can think of quite a few climbs where the moves of the deck are heaps harder than the rest of route and are not factored into the grade. This was quite common on older routes with undercut starts in the Bluies. Just allude to the difficulties in a cryptic route description and everyone will be happy.

davidn
21/05/2012
1:56:19 PM
On 21/05/2012 Estey wrote:
>Dave,
>
>I'd go with the Cruzers grading methodology. I can think of quite a few
>climbs where the moves of the deck are heaps harder than the rest of route
>and are not factored into the grade. This was quite common on older routes

Cheers Estey - it did sound like a good approach, and refreshing for its lack of criticism too!

>with undercut starts in the Bluies. Just allude to the difficulties in
>a cryptic route description and everyone will be happy.

Everyone except Damo, when he realises the bleeding obvious that I'm not likely to ever be inviting him out anywhere!

Tell you what though Damo, I'll bring a tape measure next time I go out cherry-picking, and let you know if I was wrong ;)

As M9 would say: heh, heh, heh
Olbert
21/05/2012
2:19:03 PM
On 21/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>As M9 would say: heh, heh, heh

>As M9 would say: hehx3

Fixed that for you
One Day Hero
21/05/2012
2:30:07 PM
On 21/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>Everyone except Damo, when he realises the bleeding obvious that I'm not
>likely to ever be inviting him out anywhere!
>
Oh god, no! Don't even joke about that. Clearly I don't expect you to cut me in on the development of this "world class new area". However, when you're done "picking the plums", it'd be great if you wouldn't mind telling me where to find the place (and give me a time when you definitely won't be there). I'll pop out, onsight your shitty gr22, and take some photo's of what it's really like, just so people on Chocky can have a bit more of a laugh at your expense.

ta

grantoss
21/05/2012
2:59:51 PM
this week's UFC fight.....ODH vs Davidn

Climboholic
21/05/2012
4:32:00 PM
This is what Chocky is all about! :-)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/05/2012
8:34:30 PM
On 21/05/2012 grantoss wrote:
>this week's UFC fight.....ODH vs Davidn

More ammo for the protagonists and the delight of others in the peanut gallery...

Hey davidn, what would you grade these routes?

~> Right up your alley; you know, hard starts, pockets, rails, etc...

Photo 1.



Photo 2.


... & with this ^ photo; What % more grade would you give it if the heelhook was barred!
Heh x 3 ☻

rodw
21/05/2012
8:38:20 PM
Top routes 16, bottom photo 18...give me some more this is easy.

wallwombat
21/05/2012
11:23:10 PM
widewetandslippery would say something about the "top route" being the one with the sheila in the pink top standing underneath it
crazyjohn
22/05/2012
6:51:41 AM
On 21/05/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>widewetandslippery would say something about the "top route" being the
>one with the sheila in the pink top standing underneath it

oi. that "sheilas" Julie. be careful. tassies are everywhere and they watch out for their own.
widewetandslippery
22/05/2012
4:37:14 PM
I am so chaneling ali g wombat with da Julie.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
There are 49 messages in this topic.

 

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