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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 75
Author
Piton on Plimsoll Line - Araps

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/05/2012
9:53:05 PM
On 16/05/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 16/05/2012 Doug wrote:
>>This is one of only a few 22's on gear I've managed to lead at Arapiles
>>- about 15 years ago
>
>I also did it 15 years ago!
>
>>and I was really glad the peg was there. It made
>>the route feel safe enough
>
>That's the problem - you felt safe. You had the illusion of safety - but
>without actually falling on the piton how do you know you were safe?
>
>Has anyone actually weighted this piton recently? Or whipped on it? It's
>great to have a theory about the quality of the protection but we need
>some real world tests!

Are you volunteering?

What is this crap about 'illusion of safety regarding pitons' (generally), being a problem?
Don't get me wrong, as I acknowledge the piton in the photo appears well rusted, but if swapped out for a new one (every 5 years if necessary), it would be bomber if placed by someone half experienced in the art(!); ... and certainly better than any wire likely to fit in a knifeblade sized crack.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/05/2012
10:01:32 PM
On 17/05/2012 pecheur wrote:
>Ah good you've sort of commented on what I was going to say anyway Rod.
> There are plenty of people these days that can climb 22 and are (fixed)
>gear numpties because of gyms. To them (and French sport climbers ...)
>a piton and a bolt are the same, fixed gear is fixed gear.

That is what route descriptions in guidebooks are meant for? ... ~> though "shaky fixed piton" may not translate too well into gymspeak/French!
;-)

stugang
17/05/2012
10:14:06 PM
On 16/05/2012 kieranl wrote:
>On 16/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Is it really just that peg between the climber and the deck? I thought
>>there were small wires about as well.
>Can't recall, too long since I did it. The problem with pegs is that most
>people don't treat them as suspect so are likely to just clip the peg and
>ignore backup placements. I'll bet that's what most people do now - treat
>it as a semi-sport route.

all the more reason not to retro it. Get some numpty to bust an ankle or smash a leg. then the (safe) route will get a rep and then no eurotrash numpties will ever consider it.
sportclimber
17/05/2012
10:31:43 PM
Ive never tried the climb Plimsoll Line, but my mate Warwick tells me it is great, and the guide gives it's stars too. But First Warwick and I will be replacing that metal piton cos it looks like its rusty, and anyway he has new ones. Can you reach the metal piton from the abseil rings over Orestes?

stugang
17/05/2012
10:40:16 PM
On 17/05/2012 sportclimber wrote:
>Ive never tried the climb Plimsoll Line, but my mate Warwick tells me it
>is great, and the guide gives it's stars too. But First Warwick and I will
>be replacing that metal piton cos it looks like its rusty, and anyway he
>has new ones. Can you reach the metal piton from the abseil rings over
>Orestes?

Tell your mate to "Spread'em Warwick cos Dad's coming with the Vas"


shortman
17/05/2012
10:44:05 PM
Are you having a conversation with yourself bomber?

stugang
17/05/2012
10:48:36 PM
No.

I honestly don't have any other usernames

sportclimber
17/05/2012
10:49:30 PM
On 17/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>Tell your mate to "Spread'em Warwick cos Dad's coming with the Vas"
>

LOL I think I'm going to really love traditonal rock climbing
One Day Hero
17/05/2012
10:57:09 PM
On 17/05/2012 pecheur wrote:
>To them (and French sport climbers ...)
>a piton and a bolt are the same, fixed gear is fixed gear.

I used to buy into that stereotype, then I went to France! The average French climber might not be as nut and cam savvy as the average Araps bunny, but they sure know a thing or two about running it out above antique pegs. A big thing which struck me over there is a seeming acceptance that climbing isn't bloody ping-pong, Euro's get that some climbing is dangerous, they're alright with that concept. You might see "clip it and go without thinking about it", I often heard "if you don't want to take the risk, don't get on the route"
One Day Hero
17/05/2012
11:04:34 PM
On 17/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>Tell your mate to "Spread'em Warwick cos Dad's coming with the Vas"
>
I hope that's a quote from a movie or something

stugang
17/05/2012
11:22:18 PM
That is actually the most likely name i'd have given to the route on the great wall that I got ever so close to doing, but ultimately fuked up on.

lot of reasons for it including some fukwit putting vaseline on the crux holds when I first tried it (the route originally bolted by Warwick Baird) and then some surreal moment in a park on the way to moonarie (Matt Adams can fill out the story - I wasn't there) with a daddy giving his son Warwick (ironically same name) overzealous advice as to how play on the playground gear.

put the two together around a campfire and some funny shit comes out.
One Day Hero
17/05/2012
11:57:10 PM
That sounds hilarious, would have been a fittingly wacky name for the hardest route at a crag which never gets visited by hard climbers. Was the vas directed at you specifically, or just a general 'keep off' to everyone?

stugang
18/05/2012
12:10:29 AM
Can't comment. Cos Simey the master of all route names "suitably ironic", never got my jokes.
pecheur
18/05/2012
1:08:33 PM
On 17/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I used to buy into that stereotype, then I went to France! The average
>French climber might not be as nut and cam savvy as the average Araps bunny,
>but they sure know a thing or two about running it out above antique pegs.
>A big thing which struck me over there is a seeming acceptance that climbing
>isn't bloody ping-pong, Euro's get that some climbing is dangerous, they're
>alright with that concept. You might see "clip it and go without thinking
>about it", I often heard "if you don't want to take the risk, don't get
>on the route"

You've obviously met different Frenchies than I have. The ones I've met either here or in Thailand whine about trad, want stuff down to grade 10 bolted and couldn't tell the difference between a rusty Fixe hanger and a titanium bolt ... Oh and want fixed (well slung ropes too) pro every 1.5 metres ...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/05/2012
1:19:14 PM
On 17/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>I honestly don't have any other usernames
>
If you type that enough you may end up actually believing it?
Then again, if it is true, then ODH's recent boast about how many vote off's he has accumulated is a scary number!

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 75
There are 75 messages in this topic.

 

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