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Piton on Plimsoll Line - Araps |
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17-May-2012 9:53:05 PM
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On 16/05/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 16/05/2012 Doug wrote:
>>This is one of only a few 22's on gear I've managed to lead at Arapiles
>>- about 15 years ago
>
>I also did it 15 years ago!
>
>>and I was really glad the peg was there. It made
>>the route feel safe enough
>
>That's the problem - you felt safe. You had the illusion of safety - but
>without actually falling on the piton how do you know you were safe?
>
>Has anyone actually weighted this piton recently? Or whipped on it? It's
>great to have a theory about the quality of the protection but we need
>some real world tests!
Are you volunteering?
What is this crap about 'illusion of safety regarding pitons' (generally), being a problem?
Don't get me wrong, as I acknowledge the piton in the photo appears well rusted, but if swapped out for a new one (every 5 years if necessary), it would be bomber if placed by someone half experienced in the art(!); ... and certainly better than any wire likely to fit in a knifeblade sized crack.
☻
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17-May-2012 10:01:32 PM
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On 17/05/2012 pecheur wrote:
>Ah good you've sort of commented on what I was going to say anyway Rod.
> There are plenty of people these days that can climb 22 and are (fixed)
>gear numpties because of gyms. To them (and French sport climbers ...)
>a piton and a bolt are the same, fixed gear is fixed gear.
That is what route descriptions in guidebooks are meant for? ... ~> though "shaky fixed piton" may not translate too well into gymspeak/French!
;-)
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17-May-2012 10:14:06 PM
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On 16/05/2012 kieranl wrote:
>On 16/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Is it really just that peg between the climber and the deck? I thought
>>there were small wires about as well.
>Can't recall, too long since I did it. The problem with pegs is that most
>people don't treat them as suspect so are likely to just clip the peg and
>ignore backup placements. I'll bet that's what most people do now - treat
>it as a semi-sport route.
all the more reason not to retro it. Get some numpty to bust an ankle or smash a leg. then the (safe) route will get a rep and then no eurotrash numpties will ever consider it.
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17-May-2012 10:31:43 PM
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Ive never tried the climb Plimsoll Line, but my mate Warwick tells me it is great, and the guide gives it's stars too. But First Warwick and I will be replacing that metal piton cos it looks like its rusty, and anyway he has new ones. Can you reach the metal piton from the abseil rings over Orestes?
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17-May-2012 10:40:16 PM
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On 17/05/2012 sportclimber wrote:
>Ive never tried the climb Plimsoll Line, but my mate Warwick tells me it
>is great, and the guide gives it's stars too. But First Warwick and I will
>be replacing that metal piton cos it looks like its rusty, and anyway he
>has new ones. Can you reach the metal piton from the abseil rings over
>Orestes?
Tell your mate to "Spread'em Warwick cos Dad's coming with the Vas"
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17-May-2012 10:44:05 PM
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Are you having a conversation with yourself bomber?
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17-May-2012 10:48:36 PM
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No.
I honestly don't have any other usernames
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17-May-2012 10:49:30 PM
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On 17/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>Tell your mate to "Spread'em Warwick cos Dad's coming with the Vas"
>
LOL I think I'm going to really love traditonal rock climbing
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17-May-2012 10:57:09 PM
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On 17/05/2012 pecheur wrote:
>To them (and French sport climbers ...)
>a piton and a bolt are the same, fixed gear is fixed gear.
I used to buy into that stereotype, then I went to France! The average French climber might not be as nut and cam savvy as the average Araps bunny, but they sure know a thing or two about running it out above antique pegs. A big thing which struck me over there is a seeming acceptance that climbing isn't bloody ping-pong, Euro's get that some climbing is dangerous, they're alright with that concept. You might see "clip it and go without thinking about it", I often heard "if you don't want to take the risk, don't get on the route"
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17-May-2012 11:04:34 PM
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On 17/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>Tell your mate to "Spread'em Warwick cos Dad's coming with the Vas"
>
I hope that's a quote from a movie or something
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17-May-2012 11:22:18 PM
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That is actually the most likely name i'd have given to the route on the great wall that I got ever so close to doing, but ultimately fuked up on.
lot of reasons for it including some fukwit putting vaseline on the crux holds when I first tried it (the route originally bolted by Warwick Baird) and then some surreal moment in a park on the way to moonarie (Matt Adams can fill out the story - I wasn't there) with a daddy giving his son Warwick (ironically same name) overzealous advice as to how play on the playground gear.
put the two together around a campfire and some funny shit comes out.
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17-May-2012 11:57:10 PM
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That sounds hilarious, would have been a fittingly wacky name for the hardest route at a crag which never gets visited by hard climbers. Was the vas directed at you specifically, or just a general 'keep off' to everyone?
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18-May-2012 12:10:29 AM
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Can't comment. Cos Simey the master of all route names "suitably ironic", never got my jokes.
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18-May-2012 1:08:33 PM
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On 17/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I used to buy into that stereotype, then I went to France! The average
>French climber might not be as nut and cam savvy as the average Araps bunny,
>but they sure know a thing or two about running it out above antique pegs.
>A big thing which struck me over there is a seeming acceptance that climbing
>isn't bloody ping-pong, Euro's get that some climbing is dangerous, they're
>alright with that concept. You might see "clip it and go without thinking
>about it", I often heard "if you don't want to take the risk, don't get
>on the route"
You've obviously met different Frenchies than I have. The ones I've met either here or in Thailand whine about trad, want stuff down to grade 10 bolted and couldn't tell the difference between a rusty Fixe hanger and a titanium bolt ... Oh and want fixed (well slung ropes too) pro every 1.5 metres ...
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18-May-2012 1:19:14 PM
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On 17/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>I honestly don't have any other usernames
>
If you type that enough you may end up actually believing it?
Then again, if it is true, then ODH's recent boast about how many vote off's he has accumulated is a scary number!
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