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Piton on Plimsoll Line - Araps

ben wiessner

15-May-2012
6:37:17 PM

This is the piece that would stop you from hitting the deck for quite a few moves.

Marssan

15-May-2012
7:12:17 PM

Looks bomber to me


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-May-2012
7:58:17 PM

On 15/05/2012 ben wiessner wrote:
>This is the piece that would stop you from hitting the deck for quite a
>few moves.
>
At the risk of controversial old fashionedness I advocate replace it with like for like, as it keeps a sense of history and it has obviously been effective till now...

Swapping it out does the necessary deed and gives you a good souvenir for bodyweight use elsewhere, or a paperweight with a story behind it!

PS I'd wager that it is probably better than it looks, as I have removed some truly ugly insitu pitons in my time and many were surprisingly sound and correspondingly difficult to remove...
☺


wallwombat

15-May-2012
8:09:52 PM

If you hammered it out the right way,it would probably leave a nice nut placement.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-May-2012
8:13:58 PM

On 15/05/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>If you hammered it out the right way,it would probably leave a nice nut placement.
>
I agree, but would you rather fall on a sound knifeblade, or (at max) a #3 RP from (sic) "quite a few moves" above, with a potential deckout if it rips?
☻

egosan

15-May-2012
8:36:58 PM

Did you clip it?


wallwombat

15-May-2012
8:56:11 PM

On 15/05/2012 egosan wrote:
>Did you clip it?

i generally clip everything.

Emo climbers beware.

citationx

15-May-2012
9:03:58 PM

while it looks dodgy (and it may well be), i have two pitons that I once removed. the first one had no visible rust. we rotated it and it came out with hand pressure, with only ~6mm of rock-biting metal before rust had pretty much eaten through it. the second piece looked somewhat similar to your picture, and we had to use a biner clipped to a hammer on it for ~2 minutes before it came out.

rockotter

15-May-2012
9:54:31 PM

Replace the mank, a decent piton if you must but is a ring less clean?

kieranl

15-May-2012
10:13:45 PM

I still find it hard to understand that people are still debating whether to leave crappy fixed gear in good climbs. But they are. I can almost guarantee that if the pin is replaced with a bolt that the bolt will be chopped. So, sadly I have to say that if there's no good wire there the mank will have to be replaced with mank.


Ben_E

16-May-2012
12:00:16 AM

On 15/05/2012 ben wiessner wrote:
>This is the piece that would stop you from hitting the deck for quite a few moves.

Really? You sound more confident than I am that it would stop you hitting the deck! Fortunately I'm saved from needing to worry about it by my inability to lead trad 22.

Agree it can be a bit hard to assess just how good/bad it is until you try to get it out, but that looks like a pretty good candidate for replacement.

Give another few decades and a few more rounds of replacement, there should finally be a nut placement to trust, though. ;-)


Pat B

16-May-2012
5:43:18 AM

On 15/05/2012 ben wiessner wrote:
>This is the piece that would stop you from hitting the deck for quite a
>few moves.
>
>

When was this picture taken? I thought the piton had been removed from Plimsol Line, and when I was up there in the last couple of years I couldn't see it which annoyed me as I would like to lead it again, and the last time I clipped the piton I was quite happy with it.......had it/has it deteriorated over the last 15 years?

Cam McKenzie

16-May-2012
8:02:56 AM

Wasn't the piton removed and replaced with a ring previously (maybe 5 or 6 years ago)? Then the ring was chopped and the piton replaced about 2 weeks later. Ah politics...

Piton seems like a pretty dodgy long term solution when it's a rather essential piece of gear on the route in question.


rodw

16-May-2012
8:43:48 AM

You victorians make me lol.

ben wiessner

16-May-2012
8:56:07 AM

Photo was taken 22nd April 2012.

Yes I did clip it. But I didn't look at it. And I'm glad I didn't fall on it.


shortman

16-May-2012
9:11:39 AM

On 16/05/2012 ben wiessner wrote:
>Photo was taken 22nd April 2012.
>
But I didn't look at it.

Um??

kieranl

16-May-2012
9:21:57 AM

On 16/05/2012 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>Wasn't the piton removed and replaced with a ring previously (maybe 5 or
>6 years ago)? Then the ring was chopped and the piton replaced about 2
>weeks later. Ah politics...
>
I'm pretty sure this is the case. I'm sure there was a bunch of stuff on Chocky about it but my search skills are obviously not good enough cause I couldn't find it.
>Piton seems like a pretty dodgy long term solution when it's a rather
>essential piece of gear on the route in question.
Totally agree. Also the crack on Plimsoll Line gets quite wet so the pegs rust quickly.

Ben, it would be really good to have that pin replaced by a good bolt/ring but you would first need to talk to the current crop of bolt-choppers and get them to accept that it is a reasonable approach. Otherwise, I am sad to say, history will probably repeat.
Good luck.


Ben_E

16-May-2012
11:00:23 AM

Maybe I didn't make myself clear - I'm actually in favor of replacing with another piton rather than a bolt/ring (admittedly it's hardly relevant to me in this case given I'm unlikely to be leading it any time soon - just commenting from my armchair here). If it ultimately gets scarred to a nut slot, so be it.

I can see the argument either way, though, just comes down to preference.


shortman

16-May-2012
11:01:45 AM

On 16/05/2012 Ben_E wrote:
>Maybe I didn't make myself clear - I'm actually in favor of replacing with
>another piton rather than a bolt/ring (admittedly it's hardly relevant
>to me in this case given I'm unlikely to be leading it any time soon -
>just commenting from my armchair here). If it ultimately gets scarred to
>a nut slot, so be it.
>
>I can see the argument either way, though, just comes down to preference.

I think he meant the OP.

widewetandslippery

16-May-2012
11:52:44 AM

I am in favour of a rung. The legs get tired steming and a rest would be nice.

There are 75 messages in this topic.