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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes bolted - all rings 10
21% 
No bolts - happy to haul rack up to the stratosphe 6
12% 
Yes bolted - U's please 0
 
No - keep it as one huge high-ball boulder 2
4% 
Yes bolted with SS glue in carrots 1
2% 
Mixed - bolts where needed and gear 27
56% 
Yes manky mild steel and name it "ODH central" 2
4% 

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 45
Author
New cliff in the East: do you want trad or bolted?
rolsen1
21-Feb-2012
9:09:34 AM
On 21/02/2012 Pat wrote:
>I have neither the Fantini cojones or the Grollo budget for stainless,
>so it will be somewhere in between the two.

I know you're only joking but if you dont have the budget to do it properly then don't do it. Not having the money is not a good enough reason for not making the climbs safe. The climbs will also no doubt get more ascents if bolted safely for the grade as well.

nmonteith
21-Feb-2012
10:15:46 AM
No excuse for anything less than Stainless Steel.

Pat
21-Feb-2012
2:32:42 PM
Agree with both of you - I was tongue in cheek saying I didn't have the budget for as much stainless as a Grollo style project - maybe M9 would like to explain what I mean.
ZERO
21-Feb-2012
4:40:01 PM
Do you have the budget to glue all the choss into a cohesive mass of bomber rock, just like GOD did at Arapiles?
Would it be cheaper to excavate a large waterhole at the bottom and divert the Snowy River into it so we can enjoy deep water soloing without flying abroad?

Pat
21-Feb-2012
10:53:42 PM
Not anywhere near the Snowy. Re-diversion would rival the three gorges project - and the Chinese knocked me back on financing the thing.

Presumably the same God that fused Araps together gave us the inventiveness to produce glue, so your first suggestion may be on the cards, although it might not be a choss pile. We'll have to see.
Fish Boy
22-Feb-2012
10:44:03 AM
I assume everyone knows Grollo is Joe, yes?
widewetandslippery
22-Feb-2012
10:51:03 AM
Rungs made with reo and non shrink grout is the way to go. Non elitist.

Pat
22-Feb-2012
11:53:30 AM
mmm..... via ferrata in the East - now that has a ring to it.

benjenga
22-Feb-2012
1:03:01 PM
May sound like a silly question but have you got a photo of these walls or are you afraid that we will see them for the choss they are??

Pat
22-Feb-2012
1:29:47 PM
I do have some photos and you will see them for the choss they aren't. I have always found it difficult to upload photos - ie I haven't been able to work it out, - but I will have a go.



Behold it's magnificent chossiness. Not taken by me or a person who knows anything about climbing, so forgive the lack of decent detail.
kieranl
22-Feb-2012
1:43:21 PM
On 22/02/2012 Pat wrote:
>Behold it's magnificent chossiness. Not taken by me or a person who knows
>anything about climbing, so forgive the lack of decent detail.
Which way is up?

Pat
22-Feb-2012
1:55:43 PM
Good dead pan delivery kieran. You are looking straight up the cliff standing at one part of its base, to some medium sized overhangs.

Not the best shot - I know.
TonyH
22-Feb-2012
2:09:22 PM
Perhaps it should be reserved for dry tooling?
kp
22-Feb-2012
2:26:55 PM
The vegetation to rock ratio is outstanding....

Pat
22-Feb-2012
2:37:58 PM
Thankyou - I can feel the respect for my discovery radiating from my screen. Most of you are obviously speechless with wonder - I can tell.

Seriously - there are better sections, but its much better to undersell and over-deliver if I can.
kieranl
22-Feb-2012
2:38:02 PM
On 22/02/2012 kp wrote:
>The vegetation to rock ratio is outstanding....
Presumably the winter frozen turf climbing would also be outstanding.
How high is this mighty bastion - or, more usefully, how long would the best parts of the climbs be. I assume that there is some, but not a lot, of foreshortening in the photo.
Is it going to be worth the 6 hour drive from Nati?

Pat
22-Feb-2012
4:01:51 PM
Estimated heights at the moment around the 15 meter mark - if I say 45 feet does it sound higher?

Some foreshortening and this is not the highest part of the cliff.

6 hours from Nati? Where do you think the cliff is kieran?
kieranl
22-Feb-2012
4:12:12 PM
If it's East of Melb, I'm guessing somewhere like Cathedrals - 4 hours to Melbourne central then another couple to the cliff. 6 hours including a meal break.

davetheyounger
22-Feb-2012
4:36:15 PM
I think you are right Kieran, I have a feeling it is on the western side of the cathedrals near sunset strip and was exposed by the fires. When looking up from the Maroondah highway there appears to be a good looking wall with a couple of small overhangs, and possibly a resonable arete. Have been meaning to go and have a look but havent got round to it.
If it is in that neck of the woods how about fixing up sunset strip, ten fathom and neds peak at the same time
dalai
22-Feb-2012
4:40:30 PM
On 22/02/2012 davetheyounger wrote:
>If it is in that neck of the woods how about fixing up sunset strip, ten
>fathom and neds peak at the same time

Fix up how, dynamite??? ;-)

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 45
There are 45 messages in this topic.

 

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