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General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option

Votes

Graph

Yes bolted - all rings

21%

No bolts - happy to haul rack up to the stratosphe

12%

Yes bolted - U's please

No - keep it as one huge high-ball boulder

Yes bolted with SS glue in carrots

Mixed - bolts where needed and gear

56%

Yes manky mild steel and name it "ODH central"

Author

New cliff in the East: do you want trad or bolted?


Pat

17-Feb-2012
7:36:45 PM

I have found a new cliff in the Eastern district; it is quite a steep walk in.

Question is, to lighten the pack, do you want it completely bolted or mixed?


Miguel75

17-Feb-2012
8:02:19 PM

If it can go on gear let it, otherwise pop a bolt in. Oh, and directions;)

Details: height of climbs, walk in time etc

One Day Hero

17-Feb-2012
8:23:20 PM

Where's the voting option for "I wouldn't lower myself to climbing on your poxy, mini wall of choss near melbourne, even if you bolted $50 notes and tits all over the thing!" ?

hipdos

17-Feb-2012
8:57:36 PM

I vote highball cause I reckon ODH will be down there soon with his ACT bouldering buddies. Save the pics for ODH on a nasty V2 highball crux.


benjenga

17-Feb-2012
9:00:58 PM

Gear is fine if you need it for most routes. It's only a pain when if a sport crag with one or two trad routes or if you need just one cam here and there. If it can go as a mixed wall then make it so otherwise grid bolt it.


shortman

17-Feb-2012
9:55:56 PM

Is it granite?


Pat

18-Feb-2012
1:07:20 AM

Not granite, so it is a poxy, mini-wall of choss.

Olbert

18-Feb-2012
8:39:54 AM

I'm with ODH, bolt tits and 50's all over it


Superstu

18-Feb-2012
9:02:34 AM

It depends on how good the trad is.

Quality trad - keep it.
Shite trad - griddit.

widewetandslippery

18-Feb-2012
10:11:00 AM

you should first do a detailed investigation into what indidginous signffcance has, do not publish route info as you will cause human impact, and certainly converse with national parks, they are so helpful, willing to give time and have a hormonal love of climbers

rolsen1

18-Feb-2012
10:51:51 AM

You should keep inline with Victorian bolting standards, if it is easy under bolt it, if it is hard bolt it properly.


Pat

18-Feb-2012
10:54:35 AM

So, "Victorian bolting standards" it is. Where can I get my hands on some droopy mild steel carrots?

pecheur

18-Feb-2012
11:17:20 AM

On 18/02/2012 Pat wrote:
>So, "Victorian bolting standards" it is. Where can I get my hands on some
>droopy mild steel carrots?

Firstly I'm glad to see most people voted mixed.

I once had an installer put in grade 4.6 bolts instead of the grade 10.9 bolts called for in the design in a rather safety critical application (their supplier didn't have any grade 10.9 on hand so to meet the deadlines they just went out and bought the 4.6 because they didn't know better). Luckily it was picked up in QA. Given these were M8 and 40 mm long, they'd make perfect Victorian carrots ;p <- THIS IS A JOKE Admittedly they'd probably be better than some of the really bad ungraded carrots ...

dalai

18-Feb-2012
11:55:15 AM

Do what you feel is best and worth your while. Reality if it is hard to get to, few will make the trek east...

Look forward to seeing the finished product which ever way you decide to go Pat!


Eduardo Slabofvic

18-Feb-2012
12:31:24 PM

On 17/02/2012 Pat wrote:
>completely bolted

You want to deliberately make it scary???? As sport climbing is scary, apparently.

>mixed?

Does this mean only scary in places and not in others?

I'm confused.


Pat

18-Feb-2012
1:31:32 PM

Let me explain

- completely bolted = line of large cairns leading up to the base of cliff and marking each climb top and bottom. Chalk tick marks where needed. Photo topo and Siri voice guide telling you where to go.

- mixed = some vague pieces of faded tape leading generally through various patches of prickly acacia and boneseed that will catch hold of all the hexes and billys dangling from your haversack.


Eduardo Slabofvic

18-Feb-2012
2:45:49 PM

On 18/02/2012 Pat wrote:
>Let me explain
>
> - completely bolted = line of large cairns leading up to the base of
>cliff and marking each climb top and bottom. Chalk tick marks where needed.
>Photo topo and Siri voice guide telling you where to go.

Oh, I see. Thanks. How many car parking places are yo proposing?

>
>- mixed = some vague pieces of faded tape leading generally through various
>patches of prickly acacia and boneseed that will catch hold of all the
>hexes and billys dangling from your haversack.

hmmmmmm, prickly


Pat

18-Feb-2012
3:17:22 PM

>
>Oh, I see. Thanks. How many car parking places are yo proposing?

No carparks - the Ted Ballieu memorial light rail will go direct to base of steep hill.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-Feb-2012
3:40:14 PM

On 18/02/2012 Pat wrote:
>So, "Victorian bolting standards" it is. Where can I get my hands on some
>droopy mild steel carrots?

You could always be controversial and go for the NSW standard by naming the place New Wingello and talking it up heaps!
~> By the way; this is much quicker than waiting forty years for the carrots to go droopy!
☺

On 18/02/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>you should first do a detailed investigation into what indidginous signffcance
>has, do not publish route info as you will cause human impact, and certainly
>converse with national parks, they are so helpful, willing to give time
>and have a hormonal love of climbers

... & if that is too hard to manage, you can always get yourself an inflatable ~~(picture deleted by Mod)~~ boat to attack the navy with instead!
Heh, heh, heh.

Post edit:
>bolts where needed

~> This needs clarification!
Are we talking Grollo Real Estate spacing or Lindorff/Fantini spacing?
Heh, heh, heh.


Pat

21-Feb-2012
8:56:51 AM

I have neither the Fantini cojones or the Grollo budget for stainless, so it will be somewhere in between the two.

There are 45 messages in this topic.