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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
Author
Training Plan - Feedback please!
Rocafella
11/02/2012
10:50:37 AM
On 11/02/2012 Sonic wrote:
>On 11/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>
>
>>
>>My local gym is The Rock in Geelong - has walls, but only up to about
>>12m so not someting you get a wicked pump on..
>
>Thats misguided rubbish, or the setting is shit. I always set steeper
>walls in shorter gyms with circuits in mind for those in that very position.
>Most gyms arent more than 10m high. You can easily train anaerobic pump
>on a small wall if you know what you're doing. Circuits, down-climbing,
>time intervals,etc all work.
>
>Also - I'd probably do the campusing on one of the days with rest either
>side. Thats a pretty intense campus session for anybody and resting is
>when you gain the strength from your training. But thats just me.

Having climbed at the same gym for 10 years as well as working and setting there, I am inclined to disagree. You can definitely NOT get the same pump at The Rock as you can by the cloud wall or AME wall at Cliffhanger, or the lead wall at Bayside - if you argue with that, you probably think the world is flat. The Rock lends itself to power endurance by being short (in terms of vs outdoor route length averaging 20m+) and bouldery... And there is no part that is steep enough to train for the boudler problems I want to train...

However, I do agree with the campusing comment and its something I had considered as well... so I think I will switch that up til Thursday.. Probably make the Tuesday fingerboard more productive too!



Rocafella
11/02/2012
11:07:24 AM
Ok - well I think I have it as good as its gonna get - I'm going to run with this for 4 weeks, keep a training log and tweak for the next 4 weeks after that depending on how it goes... Will update and let you know how it all goes, and what difference it makes! Thanks everyone for your 2c!

MONDAY
Bouldering
Pull Ups
Core
Dips

TUESDAY
Fingerboard
Push Ups
Core

WEDNESDAY
Rest

THURSDAY
Campusing
Core
Pull Ups

FRIDAY
Rest

SATURDAY
Core
Push Ups
Military Press
Dips

SUNDAY
Rest


PULL UPS – 10 reps x 2 sets (hands facing away) 10 reps x 2 sets (hands facing towards) 2 mins between sets

PUSH UPS – 10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets

CORE – 10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists x 3 sets (10kg ball/7.5kg ball/5kg ball)… 2 x 2 minute plank… 1 min between planks

FINGERBOARD 2 x 10min workout (1 x Metolius Beginner, 1 x Metolius Intermediate) 20 min rest between workouts

MILITARY PRESS – 10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…

DIPS – 10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…

CAMPUS (as per Moon website)
Ladder 1-3-5-7-9 x 2 sets (1min rest between sets)
Ladder 1-4-6-9 x 2 Sets leading with each arm (4 sets in total) (1min rest between sets)
Rest 4 Minutes
Ladder Maximum 1-4-7 … 3 tries leading with each arm (6 tries in total) resting 2 minutes between each try..
Rest 4 minutes
Touches 1-4-1 (3 Sets of 1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 leading with alternative hands, i.e. Left Hand touches rung 4 2 times, as does the Right Hand for each set. Rest 2 minutes between each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-3-4 (2 sets for each arm, 1-4-3-4-3-4-3-4 for each set keeping one arm constantly on rung one and the other moving between rungs 3 and 4. Resting 2 minutes each set.

gnaguts
Online Now
11/02/2012
11:17:24 AM
On 11/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>Ok - well I think I have it as good as its gonna get - I'm going to run
>with this for 4 weeks, keep a training log and tweak for the next 4 weeks
>after that depending on how it goes... Will update and let you know how
>it all goes, and what difference it makes! Thanks everyone for your 2c!
>
Great to hear you are going to keep a training log.
I will be interested in the result.
One Day Hero
11/02/2012
12:07:09 PM
So.......is it just me, or is there no time in that lot for any rock? Your 8 week training program for bouldering in the gramps includes no bouldering in the gramps?
pecheur
11/02/2012
12:16:21 PM
On 11/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>So.......is it just me, or is there no time in that lot for any rock? Your
>8 week training program for bouldering in the gramps includes no bouldering
>in the gramps?

Okay hands up, who besides Wendy, Dalai and I find it awfully disturbing how much we are agreeing with ODH recently? There's got to be more of us, I think we need to start a support group ...

davidn
11/02/2012
12:54:15 PM
Is your grip too weak for these problems by the way? Not sure how training better grip strength on a slight overhang is going to really help your dynamic/tension abilities at steep to roof climbs, unless the issue is your grip itself.

If that four weeks doesn't help you, it might be worth trying to spend four weeks getting out to those problems and working on them as much as possible. :)

Alternatively, ask the gym staff if you can set up some problems in the bouldering cave and do your best to replicate the ones you want to do?
dalai
11/02/2012
5:54:42 PM
Nothing wrong with a dedicated training block without actually touching rock.

Personally I'd be bouldering again on the Saturday rather than just than the non climbing session scheduled. A good bouldering session will include enough core work with the key being specificity.

Plus a power endurance bouldering session can easily slotted in the day after a power session. Only three sessions in the week (Boulder, fingerboard and Campus) is pretty light on.

Also with the campus session, I'd put the touches before the ladders as I always found the effort better as a warmup. And where are the doubles - 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7?
One Day Hero
11/02/2012
6:06:09 PM
On 11/02/2012 dalai wrote:

>- 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7

I suggest going out and getting on the problems which you hope to climb, Dalai offers what appears to be a phone-sex-hotline..............
dalai
11/02/2012
6:18:40 PM
On 11/02/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 11/02/2012 dalai wrote:
>
>>- 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7
>
>I suggest going out and getting on the problems which you hope to climb,
>Dalai offers what appears to be a phone-sex-hotline..............

It is my personal service ODH. Call me, call me now... ;-)

Sonic
11/02/2012
7:47:39 PM
On 11/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:

>Having climbed at the same gym for 10 years as well as working and setting
>there, I am inclined to disagree. You can definitely NOT get the same pump
>at The Rock as you can by the cloud wall or AME wall at Cliffhanger, or
>the lead wall at Bayside - if you argue with that, you probably think the
>world is flat.

Considering I make 100% of my income from route setting and have no shortage of work, I think I'm in a pretty good position to argue, but in fairness to your thread, I'll leave that arguement for another day

Miguel75
11/02/2012
7:58:52 PM
On 10/02/2012 aaw wrote:
>have I got news for you on what awaits you in your 30's......

Apart from decrepitude, baldness and a broadening girth the 30's have been kind to my friends and I;)
Danger Mouse
11/02/2012
9:45:16 PM
On 10/02/2012 Winston Smith wrote:
>Lacks beer and chips.

As well as cheese and beanies.
uwhp510
12/02/2012
12:17:00 AM
On 10/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>(Stuff about training... for bouldering)
>Thoughts??

Bouldering is suck.

One question mark is enough.
simone
12/02/2012
1:49:35 PM
On 12/02/2012 uwhp510 wrote:
>Bouldering is suck.
>
I used to think that, but I have changed my mind.

arniearms
12/02/2012
11:40:09 PM
2 words, Biocharge & Recovery X pre workout and recovery by B.I.O.F.L.E.X. nutrition.

8 week training program needs motivation, needs recovery (rest) and needs active participation (dont dream - do!).

Whenever I do alot of training eg 4+ times a week, I know I'm taking it seriously, so start to look at getting more from my body, look at what I put into (food, fluids) and look at recovery stratergy (rest etc).

If I set goals to train and then don't have the energy to train and miss sessions I start to lose motivation. not trying to sell u sports supplements, but for the price of a gatorade and more zing than KFC laced with columbian coffee, it fires me up bigtime for intense training sessions, and i feel stronger, work harder & recover faster.

Also from my experience with elbow pain take it easy with pushups/pullups, and make sure you include daily stretching.
widewetandslippery
13/02/2012
12:44:14 AM
Euthenaise kid, quit job, go climbing. Seriously.

If you are serious. Short term non rock climbing works but don't do lame exercises like curls, do deadlifts, squats, bench, power cleans and if you weant a fag exercise bent rows.

Climb more
Rocafella
13/02/2012
9:47:38 AM
On 12/02/2012 arniearms wrote:
>2 words, Biocharge & Recovery X pre workout and recovery by B.I.O.F.L.E.X.
>nutrition.
>
>8 week training program needs motivation, needs recovery (rest) and needs
>active participation (dont dream - do!).
>
>Whenever I do alot of training eg 4+ times a week, I know I'm taking it
>seriously, so start to look at getting more from my body, look at what
>I put into (food, fluids) and look at recovery stratergy (rest etc).
>
>If I set goals to train and then don't have the energy to train and miss
>sessions I start to lose motivation. not trying to sell u sports supplements,
>but for the price of a gatorade and more zing than KFC laced with columbian
>coffee, it fires me up bigtime for intense training sessions, and i feel
>stronger, work harder & recover faster.
>
>Also from my experience with elbow pain take it easy with pushups/pullups,
>and make sure you include daily stretching.

I've used supplements before but had mixed results - Gaspari Super Pump worked really well for me, especially before comps http://www.nutritionwarehouse.com.au/superpump-max-by-gaspari-nutrition-pr-1246.html

I assume Biocharge would be similar to this?

I was using Gaspari Myofusion for recovery, but found I either put on a heap of weight when mixed with milk, or it tasted like shit when mixed with water. http://www.nutritionwarehouse.com.au/myofusion-by-gaspari-nutrition-pr-613.html

Recover X looks to be similar to Charge in that its not whey protein based?

Any tips on who stocks it and what flavours don't taste like ass?

Rocafella
13/02/2012
10:43:57 AM
On 13/02/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Euthenaise kid, quit job, go climbing. Seriously.
>
>If you are serious. Short term non rock climbing works but don't do lame
>exercises like curls, do deadlifts, squats, bench, power cleans and if
>you weant a fag exercise bent rows.
>
>Climb more

I'm sure my family would love to hear that!

I spent most of 2010/11 doing a mix of crossfit and personal training - I could dead lift about 90kg, squat about the same, and do a whole lot of other things that didnt really help me climb better - just got me injured.

I love how 'climb more' is thrown about so easily, like 'just get on rock more often' or ;just take more weekends away to work on your project'

I have a 8 month old son, a girlfriend who doesnt climb, a full time job that works on a 6 day roster (and maybe a new job in a few weeks) as well as a crap load of debt to pay. I also dont have a woody to climb on at home. I also live close to 3hrs each way from my project.

So for right now, this is the best I can manage.

The curls are included (like the dips) to isolate the specific muscle - pulls ups also work the bicep but also engage the core, back, shoulders and triceps so you can cheat a little.

For my projects (if you arent familar with the problems) they are roof problems along flake crimps located in Hollow Mountain Cave... A lot of the time, I am in underclings which means I need biceps... I've planned for the first 4 weeks of my training, then for the 2nd four weeks, I may not need the curls...
Wendy
13/02/2012
11:39:56 AM
I'd be interested to hear how long you last on this program before getting either bored or injured. I'm sure climbing is supposed to be fun. I'm not sure this work out sounds like fun. But, if it does it for you ... And bugger the supplements, just eat well. Keep a track of your diet and levels of nutrients in it if you're worried and somehow manage to find time to do something else rather boring.

The unfortunate reality of climbing is that things like kids, full time jobs and non climbing partners make getting enough climbing in to get substantially better at it rather desperate. I wouldn't stress about being 28. Climbing fortunately benefits from experience. To the extent that all that experience outweighs the age for a fair while after 28. I'm climbing better than I have in my life at 38. I wouldn't have any trouble listing a stack of really solid climbers climbing moderately hard stuff in their 40s and 50s. Of course, if you don't actually go climbing, you won't be getting that experience ...

I approve of all the core work out though. That and a bit of stretching is the closest I'd ever get to training. I think it's massively underestimated how useful a strong core is in climbing. Next time you feel about to barndoor, are holding holds facing the wrong direction, at risk of loosing you feet on steep ground - that's your core coming to the rescue. And it's pretty hard to injure yourself with core workouts. Well, I guess there are some stupid exercises out there that could hurt your back.
One Day Hero
13/02/2012
11:52:04 AM
On 13/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>
>I love how 'climb more' is thrown about so easily, like 'just get on rock
>more often' or ;just take more weekends away to work on your project'
>
It gets thrown around because its proven to work

>I have a 8 month old son, a girlfriend who doesnt climb, a full time job
>that works on a 6 day roster (and maybe a new job in a few weeks) as well
>as a crap load of debt to pay. I also dont have a woody to climb on at
>home. I also live close to 3hrs each way from my project.
>
Wow, if those were my circumstances I'd be planning my retirement from climbing, rather than how to tick the hardest routes I'd ever done...........I guess thats where desperation sets in, followed by hope for a miracle, followed by "gaspari myofusion"?!?!?

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There are 50 messages in this topic.

 

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