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Training Plan - Feedback please! |
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10-Feb-2012 1:43:09 PM
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I have drafted up a training plan for myself for the next 8 weeks... My key aim here is power, strength, contact strength and power endurance (max 20 moves)... I AM A BOULDERER.. I am not interested, nor do I have regular access to, long routes to cut laps on... Aerobic exercise will be a 5km ride each way on my pushie to the gym and back...
I am currently bouldering V5-7 (within a few shots) and have ticked up to V9 previously with minimal/no structured training.. However a kid, job and being almost 28 is catching up with me...
MONDAY
Campus Board
Pull Ups
Core
TUESDAY
Fingerboard
Push Ups
Core
WEDNESDAY
Rest
THURSDAY
Bouldering
Core
Pull Ups
FRIDAY
Rest
SATURDAY
Core
Push Ups
Bicep Curls
SUNDAY
Rest
PULL UPS – 10 reps x 2 sets (hands facing away) 10 reps x 2 sets (hands facing towards) 2 mins between sets
PUSH UPS – 10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets
CORE – 10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists x 3 sets (10kg ball/7.5kg ball/5kg ball)… 2 x 2 minute plank… 1 min between planks
FINGERBOARD 2 x 10min workout (1 x Metolius Beginner, 1 x Metolius Intermediate) 20 min rest between workouts
BICEP CURLS – 10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets… Left arm, then right arm
CAMPUS (as per Moon website)
Ladder 1-3-5-7-9 x 2 sets (1min rest between sets)
Ladder 1-4-6-9 x 2 Sets leading with each arm (4 sets in total) (1min rest between sets)
Rest 4 Minutes
Ladder Maximum 1-4-7 … 3 tries leading with each arm (6 tries in total) resting 2 minutes between each try..
Rest 4 minutes
Touches 1-4-1 (3 Sets of 1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 leading with alternative hands, i.e. Left Hand touches rung 4 2 times, as does the Right Hand for each set. Rest 2 minutes between each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-3-4 (2 sets for each arm, 1-4-3-4-3-4-3-4 for each set keeping one arm constantly on rung one and the other moving between rungs 3 and 4. Resting 2 minutes each set.
Thoughts??
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10-Feb-2012 1:46:56 PM
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Lacks beer and chips.
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10-Feb-2012 1:47:27 PM
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I should also specify - my projects are Cave Man, Da Lai Lahmung, Annagramma, Cave Heart (link of X-treme Cool, Easy Does it, Aphrodite), Happy Camper Traverse, and the Westwood problems...
All roof/steep and a mix of dynamic and tension
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10-Feb-2012 1:53:14 PM
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In that case you'll need pork crackling as well.
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10-Feb-2012 1:54:24 PM
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Duly noted...
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10-Feb-2012 1:59:04 PM
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Maybe some preventative exercises? Military press, reverse wrist curls, etc?
I probably wouldn't bother with biceps curls either with the other pullup style stuff.
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10-Feb-2012 2:02:45 PM
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Miltary press? Do you mean with weights or just push ups?
Saturdays I won't usually be at the gym which is why I have the curls in there to substitute pulls ups, but may be overkill...
Dips may be a good exchange for bicep curls to keep triceps strong..
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10-Feb-2012 2:10:09 PM
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Over head, with dumbbells:
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10-Feb-2012 2:13:11 PM
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On 10/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>Dips may be a good exchange for bicep curls to keep triceps strong..
How do biceps curls keep the triceps strong?
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10-Feb-2012 2:20:42 PM
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I meant if you think I have enough bicep exercises, I should add in one for triceps (dips) to keep it balanced
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10-Feb-2012 2:23:23 PM
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Ah, that makes more sense. Yes dips are good. On rings (or rock rings) if you're super psyched.
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10-Feb-2012 2:57:33 PM
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add some weight to your pullups. makes em harder. makes you stronger. then you feel lighter.
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10-Feb-2012 2:58:08 PM
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On 10/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>... I AM A BOULDERER..
That's good. The first step to curing your affliction is to own up to it.
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10-Feb-2012 3:16:40 PM
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On 10/02/2012 Robb wrote:
>add some weight to your pullups. makes em harder. makes you stronger. then
>you feel lighter.
That will probably come into the program for weeks 4-8... I need to be wary of my elbows as I got a wicked case of tendonitis last year...
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10-Feb-2012 3:33:48 PM
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> However a kid, job and being almost 28 is catching up with me...
almost 28?!?!?!?! ....have I got news for you on what awaits you in your 30's......
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10-Feb-2012 3:37:06 PM
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Which is why I need to train my ass off now!! Clock is a ticking!
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10-Feb-2012 4:00:40 PM
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On 10/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>as I got a wicked case of tendonitis last year...
All the more reason for things like reverse wrist curls and the hammer/dumb bell rotation thing. Julian wrote an article with them in it: http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/index.php/download_file/-/view/28/
I'd be careful with campusing too.
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10-Feb-2012 5:33:39 PM
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You dont have access to long routes to train on (who cares) - what do you have access to boulder on?
Chockstone is not really a forum full of people training to break into Vdouble-digits. There might be four-five people here bouldering much harder than V9... So I doubt you will get useful feedback, other than general advice on how to not injure yourself, unless the Cosseys, Dave Jones or one of the silent but thugly climbers answers.
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11-Feb-2012 10:04:33 AM
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On 10/02/2012 Useful wrote:
>You dont have access to long routes to train on (who cares) - what do you
>have access to boulder on?
>
>Chockstone is not really a forum full of people training to break into
>Vdouble-digits. There might be four-five people here bouldering much harder
>than V9... So I doubt you will get useful feedback, other than general
>advice on how to not injure yourself, unless the Cosseys, Dave Jones or
>one of the silent but thugly climbers answers.
My local gym is The Rock in Geelong - has walls, but only up to about 12m so not someting you get a wicked pump on.. The bouldering area is pretty good though!
I figured what you said above might be the case - but thanks to everyone above who provided some advice.. I'll post up updates on how I go - might get some people psyched!
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11-Feb-2012 10:18:53 AM
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On 11/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
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>My local gym is The Rock in Geelong - has walls, but only up to about
>12m so not someting you get a wicked pump on..
Thats misguided rubbish, or the setting is shit. I always set steeper walls in shorter gyms with circuits in mind for those in that very position. Most gyms arent more than 10m high. You can easily train anaerobic pump on a small wall if you know what you're doing. Circuits, down-climbing, time intervals,etc all work.
Also - I'd probably do the campusing on one of the days with rest either side. Thats a pretty intense campus session for anybody and resting is when you gain the strength from your training. But thats just me.
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