Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Edelrid: "Ultralight Helmet" (Turquoise) Mid blue .Fits 54 - 60cm Great heavy duty all-rounder. SUPER SPECIAL for a short time only!  $79.00
21% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
Author
Training Plan - Feedback please!
Rocafella
10/02/2012
1:43:09 PM
I have drafted up a training plan for myself for the next 8 weeks... My key aim here is power, strength, contact strength and power endurance (max 20 moves)... I AM A BOULDERER.. I am not interested, nor do I have regular access to, long routes to cut laps on... Aerobic exercise will be a 5km ride each way on my pushie to the gym and back...

I am currently bouldering V5-7 (within a few shots) and have ticked up to V9 previously with minimal/no structured training.. However a kid, job and being almost 28 is catching up with me...

MONDAY
Campus Board
Pull Ups
Core

TUESDAY
Fingerboard
Push Ups
Core

WEDNESDAY
Rest

THURSDAY
Bouldering
Core
Pull Ups

FRIDAY
Rest

SATURDAY
Core
Push Ups
Bicep Curls

SUNDAY
Rest

PULL UPS – 10 reps x 2 sets (hands facing away) 10 reps x 2 sets (hands facing towards) 2 mins between sets

PUSH UPS – 10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets

CORE – 10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists x 3 sets (10kg ball/7.5kg ball/5kg ball)… 2 x 2 minute plank… 1 min between planks

FINGERBOARD 2 x 10min workout (1 x Metolius Beginner, 1 x Metolius Intermediate) 20 min rest between workouts

BICEP CURLS – 10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets… Left arm, then right arm

CAMPUS (as per Moon website)
Ladder 1-3-5-7-9 x 2 sets (1min rest between sets)
Ladder 1-4-6-9 x 2 Sets leading with each arm (4 sets in total) (1min rest between sets)
Rest 4 Minutes
Ladder Maximum 1-4-7 … 3 tries leading with each arm (6 tries in total) resting 2 minutes between each try..
Rest 4 minutes
Touches 1-4-1 (3 Sets of 1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 leading with alternative hands, i.e. Left Hand touches rung 4 2 times, as does the Right Hand for each set. Rest 2 minutes between each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-3-4 (2 sets for each arm, 1-4-3-4-3-4-3-4 for each set keeping one arm constantly on rung one and the other moving between rungs 3 and 4. Resting 2 minutes each set.

Thoughts??
Winston Smith
10/02/2012
1:46:56 PM
Lacks beer and chips.
Rocafella
10/02/2012
1:47:27 PM
I should also specify - my projects are Cave Man, Da Lai Lahmung, Annagramma, Cave Heart (link of X-treme Cool, Easy Does it, Aphrodite), Happy Camper Traverse, and the Westwood problems...

All roof/steep and a mix of dynamic and tension
Winston Smith
10/02/2012
1:53:14 PM
In that case you'll need pork crackling as well.
Rocafella
10/02/2012
1:54:24 PM
Duly noted...

ajfclark
10/02/2012
1:59:04 PM
Maybe some preventative exercises? Military press, reverse wrist curls, etc?

I probably wouldn't bother with biceps curls either with the other pullup style stuff.
Rocafella
10/02/2012
2:02:45 PM
Miltary press? Do you mean with weights or just push ups?

Saturdays I won't usually be at the gym which is why I have the curls in there to substitute pulls ups, but may be overkill...

Dips may be a good exchange for bicep curls to keep triceps strong..

ajfclark
10/02/2012
2:10:09 PM
Over head, with dumbbells:

ajfclark
10/02/2012
2:13:11 PM
On 10/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>Dips may be a good exchange for bicep curls to keep triceps strong..

How do biceps curls keep the triceps strong?
Rocafella
10/02/2012
2:20:42 PM
I meant if you think I have enough bicep exercises, I should add in one for triceps (dips) to keep it balanced

ajfclark
10/02/2012
2:23:23 PM
Ah, that makes more sense. Yes dips are good. On rings (or rock rings) if you're super psyched.

Robb
10/02/2012
2:57:33 PM
add some weight to your pullups. makes em harder. makes you stronger. then you feel lighter.

Eduardo Slabofvic
10/02/2012
2:58:08 PM
On 10/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>... I AM A BOULDERER..

That's good. The first step to curing your affliction is to own up to it.
Rocafella
10/02/2012
3:16:40 PM
On 10/02/2012 Robb wrote:
>add some weight to your pullups. makes em harder. makes you stronger. then
>you feel lighter.

That will probably come into the program for weeks 4-8... I need to be wary of my elbows as I got a wicked case of tendonitis last year...
aaw
10/02/2012
3:33:48 PM
> However a kid, job and being almost 28 is catching up with me...

almost 28?!?!?!?! ....have I got news for you on what awaits you in your 30's......
Rocafella
10/02/2012
3:37:06 PM
Which is why I need to train my ass off now!! Clock is a ticking!

ajfclark
10/02/2012
4:00:40 PM
On 10/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:
>as I got a wicked case of tendonitis last year...

All the more reason for things like reverse wrist curls and the hammer/dumb bell rotation thing. Julian wrote an article with them in it: http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/index.php/download_file/-/view/28/

I'd be careful with campusing too.

davidn
10/02/2012
5:33:39 PM
You dont have access to long routes to train on (who cares) - what do you have access to boulder on?

Chockstone is not really a forum full of people training to break into Vdouble-digits. There might be four-five people here bouldering much harder than V9... So I doubt you will get useful feedback, other than general advice on how to not injure yourself, unless the Cosseys, Dave Jones or one of the silent but thugly climbers answers.
Rocafella
11/02/2012
10:04:33 AM
On 10/02/2012 Useful wrote:
>You dont have access to long routes to train on (who cares) - what do you
>have access to boulder on?
>
>Chockstone is not really a forum full of people training to break into
>Vdouble-digits. There might be four-five people here bouldering much harder
>than V9... So I doubt you will get useful feedback, other than general
>advice on how to not injure yourself, unless the Cosseys, Dave Jones or
>one of the silent but thugly climbers answers.

My local gym is The Rock in Geelong - has walls, but only up to about 12m so not someting you get a wicked pump on.. The bouldering area is pretty good though!

I figured what you said above might be the case - but thanks to everyone above who provided some advice.. I'll post up updates on how I go - might get some people psyched!

Sonic
11/02/2012
10:18:53 AM
On 11/02/2012 Rocafella wrote:


>
>My local gym is The Rock in Geelong - has walls, but only up to about
>12m so not someting you get a wicked pump on..

Thats misguided rubbish, or the setting is shit. I always set steeper walls in shorter gyms with circuits in mind for those in that very position. Most gyms arent more than 10m high. You can easily train anaerobic pump on a small wall if you know what you're doing. Circuits, down-climbing, time intervals,etc all work.

Also - I'd probably do the campusing on one of the days with rest either side. Thats a pretty intense campus session for anybody and resting is when you gain the strength from your training. But thats just me.

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
There are 50 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints