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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Quotes

ecowain
1-Jun-2004
2:05:18 PM
Pain is weakness leaving the body.
earwig
1-Jun-2004
2:25:54 PM
I have longed to move away
From the hissing of the spent lie
And the old terrors' continual cry
Growing more terrible as the day
Goes over the hill into the deep sea;
- Dylan Thomas
glacier-rat
1-Jun-2004
3:08:00 PM
There are only three sports - mountain climbing, bull fighting, and motor racing - all others being games.
Ernest Hemingway

Damietta
1-Jun-2004
4:11:40 PM
On 1/06/2004 Edward Frillypants wrote:
>> Another, from Reinhold Messner????
>
>> There are only two grades in climbing, climbs I can do, and those I
>can't.
>
>Sounds like Don Whillans?
>
>If you want a quote from Messner there is "I have never clipped a bolt
>in my life".
>
>

No, the first quote is definitely Reinhold Messner.

A good quote from Whillans, though, as recounted by Greg Child in "Thin Air" - Whillans, on the way to Everest, was approached by a small boy in Kathmandu, who asked why Whillans was so much bigger (fatter) than the other members of the expedition, to which Whillans replied "In two weeks time I'll be slim, an they'll be dead"

And a quote from Whillans in "Eiger, Wall of Death". While retreating from the wall as the weather deteriorated, Whillans and Bonnington are passed by a Japanese pair hastily making their way up the wall. Whillans asks them, "are you 'eaded up in this weather" to which they reply "yes, yes, up, always up". Whillans says to Bonnington with a grin "They're going up alright, but much 'igher than they think"

Nick Kaz
1-Jun-2004
4:59:47 PM
The hardest things to do are climb a wall leaning towards you, kiss a girl that's leaning away and make an after dinner speech...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1-Jun-2004
5:06:28 PM
Don Whillans also ended most statements with
"an' so I 'it 'im" !

"On this proud & beautiful mountain we have lived hours of fraternal warm and exulting nobility. For a few days we ceased being slaves and have really been men. It is hard to return to servitude."
Lionel Terray 1965. (Re Patagonia)

"Whatever happens we will be equal to it".
Warren Harding 1925-2002 ... to a comrade on their final push - successful summit of the Nose Route El Capitan.

Through wind and through snow, few men hear the call to push on".
Herman Buhl. - The Lonely Challenge

'I got to this little stance (One and a half foot triangular, below the Great Roof - Nose Route El Cap) and placed a single bolt belay. I turned around, and looked down the entire sweep of the Nose past my friends and immediately set to, ... and put another bolt in (that belay). I can honestly say thats the only unneccessary bolt I have ever placed in my life, (chuckles heh heh)'
Warren Harding - re Nose Route El Capitan Yosemite.

anthonyk
1-Jun-2004
11:57:34 PM
"friends don't let friends climb slabs"

oh and one from duncan i liked- 'Just let me clarify: when I say 5 bolts, I mean 5 shiny new ringbolts. I'm going to take all my boltplates to Piddington or Barrenjoey and throw them at trad climbers. "Take that you dirty carrot-bolter!" '

and a nice one- "The pleasure of risk is in the control needed to ride it with assurance so that what appears dangerous to the outsider is, to the participant, simply a matter of intelligence, skill, intuition, coordination... in a word, experience. Climbing in particular, is a paradoxically intellectual pastime, but with this difference: you have to think with your body. Every move has to be worked out in terms of playing chess with your body. If I make a mistake the consequences are immediate, obvious, embarrassing, and possibly painful. For a brief period I am directly responsible for my actions. In that beautiful, silent, world of mountains, it seems to me worth a little risk." A. Alvarez.

rodw
2-Jun-2004
7:51:11 AM
"I would have climbed it if I didn't fall"

Or while sitting at the base of crag at araps the belayer next to us (name unknown) gave these lines in support in all seriousness to his climber above,

"See the move, become the move, do the move."

And another as the guy was several metres above last runner still trtying to find next placement,

"Dont worry man your looking 70%"
gfdonc
2-Jun-2004
11:21:10 AM
Ah, Rod, you cracked me up with that last one.

How about
"It needs a bold leader"
"What did you say?"
"It needs a bolt ladder".

- taken from an early issue of Thrutch I think, something about Booroomba, apologies to the original author.

Richard
2-Jun-2004
1:15:22 PM
On 2/06/2004 rodw wrote:
> while sitting at the base of crag at araps the belayer next to us (name
>unknown) gave these lines in support in all seriousness to his climber
>above,
>
>"See the move, become the move, do the move."

classic ...!!

Did it work? Or did they fall of when they heard you rolling around laughing!


nick kaz
2-Jun-2004
3:48:10 PM
>"friends don't let friends climb slabs"
or
"Friends don't let friends place friends"

manacubus
2-Jun-2004
4:01:49 PM
Ahh the sport climber's mantra.
chris
2-Jun-2004
4:25:23 PM
How about Bonatti's famous quote about training, when he said even when having sex he did it in the pushup position!

adski
2-Jun-2004
4:30:44 PM
"I've got no friends and my nuts are too small!"

rodw
2-Jun-2004
5:02:05 PM
>Did it work? Or did they fall of when they heard you rolling around laughing!

That quote didnt get him, but the 70% one did, he took a good whipper 2 seconds later.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2-Jun-2004
5:51:26 PM
On 2/06/2004 chris wrote:
>How about Bonatti's famous quote about training, when he said even when
>having sex he did it in the pushup position!

I thought that was attributed to Mesner (not Bonatti), and he managed/es it with only one point of contact if you know what I mean ...
BA
4-Jun-2004
10:53:20 AM
"You're so f##king hot, you lead it!" Greg Pritchard T-shirt design.
CJ
4-Jun-2004
12:41:22 PM
Boltus ergo sum (I bolt therefore I am) - Mark Moorhead
(with apologies to JP Satre or whoever)

... perhaps one of the sport climbing 10 commandments!
Goodvibes
4-Jun-2004
1:20:33 PM
Too true Ed, even a mostly sport climber such as myself has to accept the awful truth sometimes. It is amazing what effect a little fear can have on the memory.

adski
4-Jun-2004
2:23:32 PM
Great thread so far guys, keep em coming.

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