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The most arsekicking gr22 in the galaxy

mabsydney

15-Dec-2011
11:12:01 AM

I've looked at BMR too.........let me know when you've cleaned it.......I'll give it a go too!

Tastrad

16-Dec-2011
9:21:05 AM

Boy Racer is the hardest 22 I've done at Araps - as hard as some of the 23's. Onsighted Incipience - technical and run-out but not too bad. If you're talking about the galaxy, the most arsekicking pitch at the grade is the Harding Slot on Astroman at Yosemite. On the topo it says 11b chicken wing dyno into slot then a 5.10 squeeze. For me it might as well have been 15a - I jumared it and normally unflappable, smooth climbing Ingvar Lidman took 2 hours on it and it totally kicked his arse. Also has anyone ever been back to old routes you did first ascent of, thinking you were a better climber than you were in the 70,s or 80,s, then got your arse kicked? There is a 21 I put up in 1982 with crap boots and crap gear and after cleaning it, did it first shot. Went back 15 years later, with better gear and supposedly fitter, and couldn't get up it. Its at least 25. Several other routes I established in the early 80,s at grade 22 have been revised up to 24 because they kicked my arse on the attempted alzheimers repeat.

simey

12-Jan-2012
9:37:21 PM

Boy Racer certainly gets my vote for hardest 22 around. Was up there today with Louise Shepherd who hadn't been on it in the three decades since she onsighted it. Today she still sent it first shot, placing gear. Pretty damn impressive.

I flailed on second, just like I did almost 25 years ago.

matthew

12-Jan-2012
10:57:44 PM

Good to hear Lou is still cranking.

Wendy

14-Jan-2012
12:30:08 PM

Lou is seriously cranking again at the moment!

I'll give you Boy Racer is stiff, Simey, but the hardest 22 around is a funny call from someone who's happy downgrading Lightfingered to 21, which I find it at least as hard as Boy Racer.

I did a 23 yesterday that puts all these 22s under discussion back into the realm of 22s. Dildo Direct. Offwidth that overhangs 3m in 15. There was much grunting and eventually screaming as I plummetted out of it. Doug and I hurt all over today, hence we have retired to the cafe in Killiecrankie.

simey

14-Jan-2012
2:24:22 PM

>I'll give you Boy Racer is stiff, Simey, but the hardest 22 around is
>a funny call from someone who's happy downgrading Lightfingered to 21,
>which I find it at least as hard as Boy Racer.

Well I have yet to fall off Lightfingered and I have yet to do Boy Racer clean.

>I did a 23 yesterday that puts all these 22s under discussion back into the
>realm of 22s. Dildo Direct. Offwidth that overhangs 3m in 15. There was much grunting and eventually screaming as I plummetted out of it.

So what is new? The last grade 22 you were on at Arapiles involved grunting and screaming and plummetting and that involved face climbing with a runner at your waist.

Wendy

18-Jan-2012
3:09:30 PM

what can i say? I'm just talented and grunting, screaming and plummeting? And I'm sure you had a foreshortened view of my runners - it was at least at my knee! I'm claiming reachy nonsense on our different experiences of Celluloid and Lightfingered, but I definitely can't claim that on Dildo direct.

ademmert

18-Jan-2012
3:24:20 PM

On 18/01/2012 Wendy wrote:
>what can i say? I'm just talented and grunting, screaming and plummeting?
>And I'm sure you had a foreshortened view of my runners - it was at least
>at my knee! I'm claiming reachy nonsense on our different experiences of
>Celluloid and Lightfingered, but I definitely can't claim that on Dildo
>direct.

Where is this offwidth??

Wendy

18-Jan-2012
3:35:07 PM

flinders island, killiecrankie. best route we did all trip. we did some good individual pitches elsewhere, but there's a lot of mank on that crag.


MisterGribble

18-Jan-2012
5:46:35 PM

On 16/12/2011 Tastrad wrote:
>If you're talking about the galaxy, the most arsekicking pitch at the grade
>is the Harding Slot on Astroman at Yosemite. On the topo it says 11b chicken
>wing dyno into slot then a 5.10 squeeze. For me it might as well have been
>15a - I jumared it and normally unflappable, smooth climbing Ingvar Lidman
>took 2 hours on it and it totally kicked his arse.

And Peter Croft has soloed it!


E. Wells

5-Nov-2012
9:53:05 PM

going to Transcendental meditation tommrrow.....


E. Wells

29-Sep-2015
5:20:15 PM

Three years later...couldnt do it free. Congrats Nathan Smith on doing it second try. Had to do it in two pitches so I could haul my ass up first offwidth route. As it is mentioned with enough tape I could maybe make a crucial fist jam work but couldnt be bothered taping like that. Second roof involved supertight body squeeze. I have alot less skin....everywhere.

widewetandslippery

29-Sep-2015
5:29:21 PM

Good work.

TonyH

29-Sep-2015
8:00:05 PM

On Edge can't be an arsekicking 22, even I've led it. I think it's the only 22 I've ever led! LOL.

There are 54 messages in this topic.