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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 33
Author
crack
Wendy
23/11/2011
6:45:49 AM
Don't blame me for the list's weaknesses, I just copied and pasted from Boardlord!

And what's this Lightfingered at 21? I did it again with Esther the other day, and it's nails! It's given 22, and it's bloody stiff at that. We did Glory Rodent the same day, it's a walk in the park in comparison.
simey
23/11/2011
8:12:32 AM
On 23/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>And what's this Lightfingered at 21?

It always used to be 21. Lou upgraded it to 22 to in her guide. We should have re-graded it 21.
kieranl
23/11/2011
9:07:29 AM
On 23/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>And what's this Lightfingered at 21? I did it again with Esther the other
>day, and it's nails! It's given 22, and it's bloody stiff at that. We
>did Glory Rodent the same day, it's a walk in the park in comparison.
Well, Glory Rodent was originally 20, so it figures that it is easier than Lightfingered.
widewetandslippery
23/11/2011
10:18:37 AM
I think the earlier advice of going to a more definite crack type rock is right. If vic based hit the granite. Araps just doesn't give the continuops metres.of crack climbing as other rocks.
Wendy
23/11/2011
12:29:50 PM
On 23/11/2011 simey wrote:
>On 23/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>And what's this Lightfingered at 21?
>
>It always used to be 21. Lou upgraded it to 22 to in her guide. We should
>have re-graded it 21.

I think you should go and add it to the list of 22s you have fallen off recently before you get to excited about that.

howzithanging?
23/11/2011
1:42:31 PM
Hey hey slow down there, didn't do a crack move on squeakeasy, I take that personally, I think I climbed it in good style, got many a good rest on jams and the like! Also just bought a new set of master cams, so watch out denim here I come
Mike Bee
23/11/2011
3:47:01 PM
Wendy, what do you mean by French Crack being desperate (from your big list on page 1)?

I did that a couple of months ago, and loved it.
Wendy
23/11/2011
4:34:03 PM
I didn't write anything on that list! I just copied and pasted from Boardlord - it's appeared in every thread discussing learning to climb cracks for about 5 years. No one has to agree with his opinions (for example, i think Wizard of Ice is not that bad, certainly not compared to many later things on that list!)
Wendy
23/11/2011
4:36:11 PM
On 23/11/2011 howzithanging? wrote:
>Hey hey slow down there, didn't do a crack move on squeakeasy, I take that
>personally, I think I climbed it in good style, got many a good rest on
>jams and the like! Also just bought a new set of master cams, so watch
>out denim here I come

I'm not saying you didn't climb it in good style, I'm just saying you didn't do a lot of crack climbing on it. I'm basing this conclusion on the fact that I barely do half a dozen jams on the thing, and I'm renowned for wedging any body part it's possible to fit into what ever I'm climbing. Thus I really really doubt that someone asking about learning to climb crack has had any great crack training out of Squeakeasy.
simey
23/11/2011
9:38:38 PM
On 23/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>On 23/11/2011 simey wrote:
>>On 23/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>>And what's this Lightfingered at 21?
>>
>>It always used to be 21. Lou upgraded it to 22 to in her guide. We should have re-graded it 21.
>
>I think you should go and add it to the list of 22s you have fallen off
>recently before you get to excited about that.

What are you talking about? I seem to recall that the last time I did Light Fingered was with you. I'm pretty sure I seconded it clean despite having left one of my climbing shoes at home. But I do recall you falling on it a couple of times (on lead). I think you have conveniently forgotten the details of that particular day.

howzithanging?
23/11/2011
10:30:50 PM
I don't think you can judge with any real accuracy the details of my ascent based on your experience,

Seeing though I was there I would say i did quite a few crack climbing moves and found I was able to rest well on the jams...

I did golden streak with out shoes will this help my crack climbing??


cruze
24/11/2011
5:43:36 AM
On 23/11/2011 howzithanging? wrote:
>I did golden streak with out shoes will this help my crack climbing??

Yes. Absolutely. I am now convinced of your raw natural talent on the verge of dominating all the soaring pure crack lines that the Mount has to offer.

Please all, hasn't this thread gone far enough? Don't feed the troll...

...unless he starts asking for help on how to use his shiny new cams to set up a Tyrolean between Thunder Crack and the Rack with three split rings, clothesline and a petticoat.
Wendy
24/11/2011
6:45:32 AM
On 23/11/2011 simey wrote:

>>
>>I think you should go and add it to the list of 22s you have fallen off
>>recently before you get to excited about that.
>
>What are you talking about? I seem to recall that the last time I did
>Light Fingered was with you. I'm pretty sure I seconded it clean despite
>having left one of my climbing shoes at home. But I do recall you falling
>on it a couple of times (on lead). I think you have conveniently forgotten
>the details of that particular day.
>
I haven't forgotten that I fell off it - that would be adding to my general belief that it's desperate at 22! Then I watched Esther battle to onsight it the other day and seconded it - and still think it's desperate at the grade. Up there with Eat More Meat. I could run through a dozen 22s I've done in the past fortnight, and none of them are as hard as Lightfingered. Although it may be a somewhat height dependent experience, as it is the last face move and into the fat finger crack that is desperate.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 33
There are 33 messages in this topic.

 

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