Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

ambitious goal needed

One day Hero

28-Sep-2011
1:45:18 PM

On 28/09/2011 davidn wrote:
>
>But it's hard to criticise Simey for doing exactly what most climbers
>seem to do - moaning about how other people do it differently.

No david, you've missed the key bit. 'people doing it differently' isn't a problem, 'people doing it like total retards' is what attracts the heckling.

Anyway, none of this relates to you since you're sharp as a tack and so experienced across all facets of climbing ;)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

28-Sep-2011
2:47:20 PM

On 27/09/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>ODH, check out Badgery's . (The American Fork of the Southern Highlands(
>
>Headpointed by M9 and retro-bolted and renamed by some punk named Garth.
>

They weren't all headpointed. Some were true onsights.

>It doesn't get better
~> Yeah, like Ceuse without Brown Snakes!

>
>You can tick the crag in an afternoon.

Well, the established lines anyway, but there is still potential for more routes there.
>
>Then check out Bungonia
>
>It will be a cake walk.

... or go to Nangar if up for a real challenge!

simey

28-Sep-2011
3:26:55 PM

On 28/09/2011 Pommy wrote:
>ebenweb - if your plans for climbing hard and inspiring stuff do fall through, you could always just climb mid grade trad and talk crap on Chockstone all day

Ebenweb should be aspiring to climbing mid grade trad. He has got no experience on real rock and the number of inspiring routes within that category in Victoria should keep him amused for quite some time.

As for talking crap on Chockstone, edenweb will undoubtedly be one of the top picks when ODH and I select our respective teams from this year's draft.


shortman

28-Sep-2011
4:28:29 PM

He needs a guide BTW simey, know of anyone suitable?

simey

28-Sep-2011
5:00:55 PM

On 28/09/2011 shortman wrote:
>He needs a guide BTW simey, know of anyone suitable?

Any of the Natimuk based guides should be pretty good. Call either The Climbing Company (5387 1329) or Arapiles Climbing Guides. He just needs to specify exactly what he wants, which I assume is to learn to lead trad.

There is no reason he can't be leading easy routes on the his first weekend at Arapiles, along with some seconding of harder routes.

If there is an extra person with him, it will reduce the cost per person substantially.

mthrfckr

28-Sep-2011
8:07:22 PM

I reckon this would be a more interesting thread if we replaced the L with a T, in the same way Cooper Pedy would be more interesting if every P in the town (not the name) were replaced with an R.


shortman

28-Sep-2011
8:43:00 PM

On 28/09/2011 simey wrote:
>On 28/09/2011 shortman wrote:
>>He needs a guide BTW simey, know of anyone suitable?
>
>Any of the Natimuk based guides should be pretty good. Call either The
>Climbing Company (5387 1329) or Arapiles Climbing Guides. He just needs
>to specify exactly what he wants, which I assume is to learn to lead trad.
>
>There is no reason he can't be leading easy routes on the his first weekend
>at Arapiles, along with some seconding of harder routes.
>
>If there is an extra person with him, it will reduce the cost per person
>substantially.

There ya go Eben. Should sort ya out when ya get back from Canada.
>


wallwombat

28-Sep-2011
9:34:53 PM

On 28/09/2011 Pommy wrote:
>ebenweb - if your plans for climbing hard and inspiring stuff do fall through,
>you could always just climb mid grade trad and talk crap on Chockstone
>all day

How come trip reports from mid grade trad climbers are infinitely more interesting than those written by hard sport climbers?

One Day Hero

29-Sep-2011
9:48:00 AM

On 28/09/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>
>How come trip reports from mid grade trad climbers are infinitely more
>interesting than those written by hard sport climbers?
>
I could write an essay on this. Here's the short version;

Mid grade trad = folk who are relatively new to the game, wide eyed and not 100% sure of themselves, going out and finding adventure on the biggest, most intimidating cliff they know about. Outcome is uncertain, hence success is very gratifying.

Hard sport climbing = clowns who have been at it long enough that the thrill is gone. Trading adventure for a periodised training program, epics for ticks, retreating in the dark and rain for skin dramas on the redpoint shot.

I think its really important to get out and have big adventures in the first couple of years, cause thats as good as it gets.......and also why its more interesting to read about.


wallwombat

29-Sep-2011
10:00:03 AM

The question was, kind of, rhetorical but, yes, I agree.

pecheur

29-Sep-2011
10:02:12 AM

On 29/09/2011 One Day Hero wrote:

>I think its really important to get out and have big adventures in the
>first couple of years, cause thats as good as it gets.......and also why
>its more interesting to read about.

I agree with this, I think Mike put it best:

On 12/08/2008 mikl law wrote:
>You can only have a proper adventure with no planning or skill. Once you have those things sorted it's all a bit spoilt.


MrsM10iswhereitsat.

29-Sep-2011
10:06:37 AM

On 29/09/2011 Mr One Day Hero wrote:
>On 28/09/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>>
>>How come trip reports from mid grade trad climbers are infinitely more
>>interesting than those written by hard sport climbers?
>>
>I could write an essay on this. Here's the short version;
>
>Mid grade trad = folk who are relatively new to the game, wide eyed and
>not 100% sure of themselves, going out and finding adventure on the biggest,
>most intimidating cliff they know about. Outcome is uncertain, hence success
>is very gratifying.
>
May I remind you Mr One Day Hero, that it is not just 'folk who are relatively new to the game'. Derek my M10 love tells me that it also includes a bunch of old climbers who may be sure of themselves, but like to retain their youth and love of climbing.

He also says to tell Mr wallwombat that it could be something to do with the literacy levels of the two groups too!

Wendy

29-Sep-2011
10:25:35 AM

On 28/09/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>On 28/09/2011 Pommy wrote:
>>ebenweb - if your plans for climbing hard and inspiring stuff do fall
>through,
>>you could always just climb mid grade trad and talk crap on Chockstone
>>all day
>
>How come trip reports from mid grade trad climbers are infinitely more
>interesting than those written by hard sport climbers?

Would Smitten be infinitely more interesting if it featured mid grade trad climbers?

And Damo, given that there are vast numbers of mid grade trad climbers who have been climbing for donkey's years and presumably have acquired some idea and some skill, do they still make for interesting trip reports?

I did quite like Blake's not even start the route report of Ozy though. Almost as much as Simey's not quite start the route report of K2.

The quality and interest of trip reports largely depends on the skill of the writer. It helps if they are actually climbing something interesting, spectacular or different, but good writing can make the most of the mundane and poor writing turn great events into tedium.
>
>


wallwombat

29-Sep-2011
10:36:45 AM

On 29/09/2011 Wendy wrote:

>Would Smitten be infinitely more interesting if it featured mid grade
>trad climbers?

I doubt it, although watching a grade 19 leading tradster shake his way up Thunder Crack might be amusing

One Day Hero

29-Sep-2011
3:59:18 PM

On 29/09/2011 Wendy wrote:
>
>And Damo, given that there are vast numbers of mid grade trad climbers
>who have been climbing for donkey's years and presumably have acquired
>some idea and some skill, do they still make for interesting trip reports?
>
Most of the interesting trip reports are written by mid grade trad climbers =/= Most mid grade trad climbers are doing interesting stuff ;)

There are 115 messages in this topic.