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General Climbing Discussion

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lead vs second grade gap


shortman

26-Jun-2011
5:06:21 PM

On 26/06/2011 StuckNut wrote:
>On 25/06/2011 shortman wrote:
>
>>Look at it like this. Top roping is like having a sh*t and leading is
>>like having a root. Both are still an enjoyable experience. Of course
>leading
>>is better and and a more total experience. Just like rooting. You can't
>>compare the two.
>
>I was leading and shitting yesterday - missed out on the root and the
>top roping though. Hows that work?

This made me laugh alot. How can I respond? Maybe it's more complicated than i thought.

gfdonc

27-Jun-2011
10:59:50 AM

Not really any difference in grade for me. Toprope, sport or trad, the question is whether I can pull the moves or not. i.e. in recent years, hardest lead=23, hardest toprope might actually be less. If anything, when leading the fear of falling makes me climb harder.


ado_m

27-Jun-2011
5:43:32 PM

I tried regularly leading my hardest toprope grades.

Then I spent 6 months in a plaster cast from breaking my arm because I couldn't place good enough gear when pumped out of my brain going for it.

And my back is probably f---ed for a long time, it's painful to stand/sit/ride/do anything much apart from swimming and pilates for post natal women.

If you're worried or can't place pro safely, back it off a notch, really it's not worth it climbing that grade harder to impress the hobos at the pines. Get back in one piece.

Ado


howzithanging?

27-Jun-2011
6:17:54 PM

i am thinking about top roping a climb before leading it, grade 22 on trad at araps, looks like my climbing style and i have led that grade before on trad but i have never top roped a route before climbing it

should i top rope it or go for the onsite?


climbertron

27-Jun-2011
6:23:14 PM

Surely for trad experience is a major factor. If you can pick the correct bit of gear for the placement 1st go every time then that reduces the pump gap between top rope and lead by a huge factor, particularly when climbing near your limit.

widewetandslippery

27-Jun-2011
6:37:16 PM


bw

27-Jun-2011
6:42:22 PM

On 27/06/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>On 27/06/2011 howzithanging? wrote:
>>i am thinking about top roping a climb before leading it, grade 22 on
>trad
>>at araps, looks like my climbing style and i have led that grade before
>>on trad but i have never top roped a route before climbing it
>>
>>
>>should i top rope it or go for the onsite?
>
>Your choice tio b a limp dick or not. You are only hurting yourself.

Unless u land on your belayer


howzithanging?

27-Jun-2011
6:58:48 PM

its not placing the gear or really falling but the experince of top roping??

do you count that as climbing?


Eduardo Slabofvic

27-Jun-2011
7:02:35 PM


Sabu

27-Jun-2011
8:00:44 PM

On 27/06/2011 howzithanging? wrote:
>i am thinking about top roping a climb before leading it, grade 22 on trad
>at araps, looks like my climbing style and i have led that grade before
>on trad but i have never top roped a route before climbing it
>
>
>should i top rope it or go for the onsite?

One thing I factor in before jumping on a climb is how hard is it to bail out? A climb that one is able to toprope or rap off gets extra points because you can setup something to retrieve your gear should you need to backoff or bail. Remember there is absolutely nothing wrong with backing off a climb. As long as you allow yourself enough reserve energy to down climb to a safe point I don't see the harm in trying it.

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