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The greatest unfinished problems in Victoria

(removed)

24-Mar-2003
12:12:23 PM

Further to my previous topic, what are the greatest outstanding problems/lines in Victoria ?

For the obscenely strong, there's the left wall of Punks (Cyberpunk ?), although at somewhere in the mid 30's, it's probably around 34 grades too hard for me. There's varying degrees of opinion on whether it is actually possible too.

Any others come to mind ? Are there any out there less than 30 ?


nmonteith

24-Mar-2003
12:22:32 PM

Daves super project right of Spurt Wall springs to mind. Also Gilgamesh on Lower Taipan STILL hasn't been done - and it was supposed to be only 32.

A free ascent of Lord Gumtree at Buffalo would be impressive to see. I heard Steve Monks was giving it a good go a few years back.

There is still many impressive hard crack lines to do inthe Grampians - it is just that no one can be bothered to climb them. I have seen one super nice slick crack line which is prob only grade 26 with an 8 min walkin in the Vic Ranges. It is a very three star line waiting to be done. Any one interested should get in contact with me!

See the pic here

http://www.mrppp.com.au/nhb/images/projects/project-crack2.jpg


phil_nev

24-Mar-2003
12:57:06 PM

How bout the aid route in the youies Orpheous and the underworld.... Attempted by kimbo and almost freed till a hold broke off.... Dont know if its at all possible but it is definitly unfinished.....

ben cossey

24-Mar-2003
4:08:20 PM

i can think of at least 10 million hard projects in victoria and i hardly ever go down there even though arapsis my favorite place.
let me see,the 2 projects on the bluffs they dont look to bed exept one has no bolts,but thats easy fixed.
theres one left of india ive tryed and will try this easter,thats rad.you have to lock off a 2 fingure pock at your hip and reach for a less than i diget mono.i can hear you say rad from here.a link up of gridlock into zorlac at henry bolte wall,thats really good as wellone going from the lord into zorlac via new climbing.
one left of cobwebs.
theres ones all over tiapan and all over the gramps,including the dragon project next to touniquet on tiapan.glgamesh will probebly get some attention from people this easter.
theres heaps more than that as wel as all the one s that arnt bolted yet.
peace out.

kieranl

24-Mar-2003
9:42:19 PM

The wall left of Caligula at Buffalo, partially glimpsed on the the cover of the Mt Buffalo guide. It might be impossible but there're some features there.


hardcore

25-Mar-2003
9:57:35 AM

Yup Orpheus at the Youies has my vote. Great line - an instant 3 star with all of the drama and history of Kim Carrigan and Steve Monks trying to knock it off way back in 1985.

Dalai

25-Mar-2003
11:19:26 AM

But the way they were trying to free Orpheus was a variant traversing out left from the bolt, avoiding the true line.

(removed)

25-Mar-2003
4:24:33 PM

...actually I was hoping for more great remaining lines, there's gotta be a million link ups sure, but how many of them are the outstanding line of the crag ?

Isn't the route left of India (Somalia ?) a bigtime chipfest ? I thought it was totally blank until some pommie guy came along (can't remember who was accused of this, Nick White perhaps ?) ... I think the 2 routes on the Bluffs (Moffat's and the Sean Miles's ???) were also chipped creations too (although I'm told Miles's one isn't). Are these the ones Ben was referring to ?

Anyway, Gridlock into Zorlac wouldn't quite fit Wolfgang Gullich's definition of a great line being the easiest route up a wall. Anyway, I appreciate the effort in the replies. Orpheus sounds interesting ...


Paulie

25-Mar-2003
4:34:39 PM

kieranl wrote: The wall left of Caligula at Buffalo, partially glimpsed on the the cover of the Mt Buffalo guide. It might be impossible but there're some features there.

I actually took the time to rap down that and check it out...looks entirely possible...I was suprised it hadn't been done yet. One potential short(er) route at Buffalo is the highly featured and overhung wall that blasts through the cave to the left (facing the wall) of Home James, tried it on top rope about 6 years ago, has some thin moves towards the top...quite hard...numerous projects at Buffalo including one beautiful 20mtr overhung (in a cave) fingercrack, just have to get my fingers strong enough to haul up the pinkie locks...I'd tell you where it is but then I'd have to kill you ;)

kieranl

1-Apr-2003
10:21:56 PM

Paulie,

Good for you for checking it out! You've obviously got some other projects in mind up there. I'm not in a situation to take part at the moment but go for it!

The wall left of Caligula has to be one of the most beautiful pieces of rock I have ever seen. Go for it!

Kieran

ben cossey

3-Apr-2003
8:15:07 PM

fat boy,the thing on the front of the pharoes is the absolut bomb,its totally wicked.
as far as chips go i think one might be slightly inhanced but apart from that its totally natural.but theres so many routes at araps that have ful-on chips so i dont think its a problem.and it was done a long time ago.
its a great line anyway.
seans project on the bluffs is not chiped in any way and i dont think jerrys is to bad either.

(removed)

2-May-2003
10:14:34 AM

Ben, I see you did Punks, strong work, did you have a look at the lines on the front of the pharos, or even the left wall of Punks while you were down ? What about the stuff on the Bluffs ?


hex-TROLL

22-Mar-2004
2:27:00 PM

Never-mind ' The Ho & VD ' ---Gilgamesh awaits you Stevie-dude !

OMMMMMMMMMM---OMMMMMMMMMM--OMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

Luv, HEX (dipping an elbow in the cauldron---hmmmmm---almost ready!)

gfdonc

22-Mar-2004
9:27:28 PM

There are some great unfinished lines at Kerr's Quarry I hear ...

23-Mar-2004
12:14:33 PM

What about the remaining aid climbs in the Grampians? eg Hot Rats 16,M6 on the Workshop (Wonderland Range). The first pitch is up two thin cracks with an aid bolt to get from the first crack to the second. It's been a while since I was in there so maybe somebody should have a serious look at it (not that I did). Maybe Steve Monks will now that's freed Lord Gumtree, after all it's a lot closer to Natimuk.

kieranl

8-Feb-2007
9:40:29 PM

bump...
The wall belong Backless/Comming Up for Air belay is probably just past vertical

9-Feb-2007
10:11:11 AM

On 8/02/2007 kieranl wrote:
>The wall (below) Backless/Coming Up for Air belay is probably just past vertical

Correct - over 25m it overhangs by no more than half a metre. I have to agree with you that it's one of the most beautiful pieces of unclimbed granite around.

The beautiful airy square cut arete higher on the same face (right of backless) also deserves a mention here. It overhangs by the same small amount on it's right side and is about vertical on it's left side. As James pointed out in the Pic of the Week it has been looked at and not done by some hard men (and me too) but it would definitely go IMO (at a high grade!). It's what I imagine from the description of tommy caldwell's 5.14a "sarchasm" in colorado - pinch the arete when the holds run out.

Nottobetaken

9-Feb-2007
2:55:13 PM

Intrepid Gully wall at Arapiles - the left hand/central line looked at by Didier Raboutou back in the '80s is definitely a possibility. There's also a cool feature right of the Carrigan route 'Roundabouts' over on the Voodoo gully area. The direct to Mighty Mouse - bolted by Carrigan, is a crap line, but will be very hard. And the ultra steep wall left of the Gallery must be a contender.


nmonteith

9-Feb-2007
4:50:45 PM

On 9/02/2007 Boardlord wrote:
>And the ultra steep wall left of the
>Gallery must be a contender.

Which wall?

Nottobetaken

9-Feb-2007
7:45:26 PM

Left of the Gallery - as you pass underneath Mr Meat etc and head round the corner. It's probably 45 degs base to top. You know the one. There's a line (maybe 2) on it. Hard start to a good flake system, then hard finish. Ultra exposed.

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