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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
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1:35:24 PM |
On 21/06/2012 BundyBear wrote: >An extra bolt between 1st and 2nd was added to Freak Magnet. The 2nd >clip was death ! It has been a while but I seem to remember the first bolt being low and the second being high. I can't imagine hanging around to clip three bolts through that fingery start. I have to assume that a single better placed 1st bolt wasn't possible. |
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2:25:42 PM |
An update from Rick Phillips on his rebolting activites at Nowra... "Gun Barrel Highway, the 24 on descent gully the 17 to the left of descent gully cave called woderwick i think, the 11 or 12 i think its called lucifer, the 21 next to Pale Yellow Underwear called Bumzek, Real Buggers Don't Die, Broken and Barbed Start, Petit Miam, start of Sloth, Barbie Twins on descent gully.... at the Grotto... Depleted Gonads, Girls in the Hood, Squeeze My Cheese. Rod Young young also did all of Orca." |
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2:38:31 PM |
Does that mean the green cam is no longer needed at the start of Orca? Even I can admit that it was a little ridiculous to have one gear placement at a whole crag............but I still feel a little sentimental about it. I propose a minutes silence to remember the green cam on Orca. |
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2:52:11 PM |
On 21/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote: >I propose a minute's silence to remember the green cam on Orca. Yep - gone. :-( |
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4:04:20 PM |
Hey, I just read back a couple of posts. Ben, is Vague Flake the hard and runout 21 right of Day at the Beach? Don't retrobolt these slightly heady routes, not everything down there has to be fag friendly. Leave Butts of Beef, Shifting Sands, Day at the Beach, Speedboat Wankers, and that 21 thing the fuch alone. I'm serious here, those routes have been getting a lot of ascents for a lot of years. If you aren't comfortable leading them as they are, get your boyfriend to run a toprope up. I'll chop any retrobolts that appear on those routes. |
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4:24:40 PM |
On 21/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote: >Hey, I just read back a couple of posts. Ben, is Vague Flake the hard and >runout 21 right of Day at the Beach? Don't retrobolt these slightly heady >routes, not everything down there has to be fag friendly. Leave Butts of >Beef, Shifting Sands, Day at the Beach, Speedboat Wankers, and that 21 >thing the fuch alone. I'm serious here, those routes have been getting >a lot of ascents for a lot of years. If you aren't comfortable leading >them as they are, get your boyfriend to run a toprope up. > >I'll chop any retrobolts that appear on those routes. Hahaha yeah that's why I asked. Its in dire need of a rebolt, the first fixed hanger has rope tied to it to keep it flush with the rock and I am planning to shuffle the bolts but I was hoping not to have to add any. All right with you, mate?! |
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4:29:30 PM |
On 21/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote: >Hey, I just read back a couple of posts. Ben, is Vague Flake the hard and >runout 21 right of Day at the Beach? Don't retrobolt these slightly heady >routes, not everything down there has to be fag friendly. Leave Butts of >Beef, Shifting Sands, Day at the Beach, Speedboat Wankers, and that 21 >thing the fuch alone. I'm serious here, those routes have been getting >a lot of ascents for a lot of years. If you aren't comfortable leading >them as they are, get your boyfriend to run a toprope up. > >I'll chop any retrobolts that appear on those routes. I think you need to get chopping on Speedboat then. I seem to remember doing it with a couple of run out carrots and ring to anchors ?? P.S. Does "Pulling On The Porcelain" have an extra bolt since the recent re bolt ?? |
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4:34:35 PM |
"Evil Bumfukbabe" also has nice new bolts !!! | |||||
4:35:30 PM |
On 21/06/2012 nmonteith wrote: >Vague Flake certainly needs a total rethink for bolt positions. Please >add more and in better positions! If you add 'em this weekend ben, I'll chop 'em before next w/e. That's a "gold plated guarantee". Funny little story about this route. I bumped into Neil at Thommo's a couple of years ago getting his arse handed to him by this route, taking whip after whip (despite being a "gr 27" climber at the time).......I don't remember him getting hurt on those falls. I onsighted the thing back when I'd only been climbing for 2 years and my hardest redpoint was 23, it just isn't that bad unless you're a total pussy! >No one is seriously talking about chopping retro bolts at Nowra are they? Yep, that's what I'm doing. Why is that a problem? |
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4:45:00 PM |
On 21/06/2012 BundyBear wrote: >I think you need to get chopping on Speedboat then. I seem to remember >doing it with a couple of run out carrots and ring to anchors ?? > What year was that Bundy? I bet you're talking through your arse, cause I remember when it got retroed. It was always substantially more than "a couple of carrots and ring" (and there's a couple of perfect cam slots too) But hey, I would actually prefer if the place went back to its mixed climbing routes. You know, I was happy to reach a compromise and have it as a sport crag with a couple of runout classics.......until you guys started taking liberties. So yeah, maybe I should just forget about compromise and return Vanderholics, Gunbarrel, Betty Blue, and a few others back into the mixed routes they were when I first did them? |
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4:50:24 PM |
On 21/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote: >Funny little story about this route. I bumped into Neil at Thommo's a >couple of years ago getting his arse handed to him by this route, taking >whip after whip (despite being a "gr 27" climber at the time).......I don't >remember him getting hurt on those falls. My ego got hurt. I think it could have even been the same day I did Top One Thommo? I reckon you could rebolt Vague Flake with the same amount of bolts but in better places. My memory is they were all in the wrong places. >Yep, that's what I'm doing. Why is that a problem? Because rather than chopping the most recent retrobolts why don't you start on the 'original' retrobolts. There is plenty of them. I would hazard a guess it's almost every route. When i first climbed there in 1993 there was an awful lot of carrots and trad on most of the classics. Seems about 20 years too late to get all high and mighty about retrobolting. And I can bet if you asked any of the first ascent guys if its ok to add bolts they would be fine with it... |
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4:53:15 PM |
gold plated guarantee you say.. I have no dramas leaving it run out, there is nothing to hit and I like a good scare like the next person. The moves arent that hard at the run out just hard to read. |
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4:56:01 PM |
On 21/06/2012 benjenga wrote: >Hahaha yeah that's why I asked. Its in dire need of a rebolt, the first >fixed hanger has rope tied to it to keep it flush with the rock and I am >planning to shuffle the bolts but I was hoping not to have to add any. > >All right with you, mate?! Here's the problem with 'fixing' that route. It's hard moves between ledges, so you want to stand on a ledge, clip a bolt from tippy toes then boulder it out to the next ledge. If you start lowering bolts to make it easier for the shorties to clip, you'll probably make it more dangerous in the hard bits. If you want to have decent protection for the cruxs and make easy clips for shortarses, you'd have to double the number of bolts. Tough shit! Not every route is for everybody, shorty's might have to carry rigid draws like Wendy does to get to the bolts. I predict that if you move those bolts around, you'll make things worse rather than better. You haven't been doing this bolting thing very long man, there's a fair chance that you're not that good at thinking stuff out yet. |
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4:59:57 PM |
On 21/06/2012 nmonteith wrote: >Because rather than chopping the most recent retrobolts why don't you >start on the 'original' retrobolts. There is plenty of them. I would hazard >a guess it's almost every route. When i first climbed there in 1993 there >was an awful lot of carrots and trad on most of the classics. Seems about >20 years too late to get all high and mighty about retrobolting. And I >can bet if you asked any of the first ascent guys if its ok to add bolts >they would be fine with it... Yup. I think all of descent gully needs to be chopped as well. They were all mixed routes that topped out !!! |
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5:13:03 PM |
wow, what a farthole dickstab conventiom. | |||||
5:18:36 PM |
On 21/06/2012 nmonteith wrote: >My ego got hurt. :) I was very impressed by your desire to keep going back for some more arse whooping >I reckon you could rebolt Vague Flake with the same amount >of bolts but in better places. My memory is they were all in the wrong >places. > I suspect not. Maybe it can be done, and if so I have no objection. I'm just saying that you'll need to think it through for more than 2 minutes, or it'll be a botch job. > >Seems about >20 years too late to get all high and mighty about retrobolting. Neil, that's fuching ridiculous. Everyone has their own personal preference on how they want it to be, and they also have a point up to which they are prepared to compromise. I preferred the green cam on Orca, but I'm prepared to compromise. Does that mean the retro pussies thank me and meet me in the middle? No, they accept that as the new norm and then keep on pushing the compromise over towards their own personal preference. I've conceded 90% of what you guys want. You're trying to snatch the remaining 10%, then suggesting that I'm being unreasonable for not wanting to compromise. Fuch off! |
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5:46:50 PM |
I agree with what your saying and I am the first to admit I still have a bit to learn. There is no glory in rebolting as I am sure you know and it's hard work doing it right. I wanted to do my part for the climbing community but If you doubt that I will do a good job in your eyes then I am happy to let a more experanced bolter do the job. More time for me to climb. |
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5:50:18 PM |
I presume this means Damo is rebolting it this weekend? Because the carrots and homemade hangers certainly need fixing either way. | |||||
5:52:52 PM |
ODH go chop no beans for bonzo and closer in before worrying about added bolts on an ordinary route at tommos. | |||||
6:00:42 PM |
On 21/06/2012 widewetandslippery wrote: >ODH go chop no beans for bonzo and closer in before worrying about added >bolts on an ordinary route at tommos. John Smart didn't lead No Beans mate. He did something on it, not sure what you'd call it, but not a proper lead in my book.....therefore Onsight actually prepared the route for a first ascent. Now, a proper comparison would be if someone decided to add another 6 bolts to No Beans, in which case I would go out and chop them straight away. |
| There are 78 messages in this topic. |
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