Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

DMM: New DMM "Belay Master 2" screwgate. I-beam construction and plastic clip. (State of the Art!) $25.00
42% Off

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Rebolting Nowra


nmonteith

30/05/2011
1:06:06 PM

I'll start this topic as some sort of record of what has been fixed in the Nowra region.

On saturday I rebolted most of Squeeze the Trigger (25) on the far left end of of Planet c--k. I replaced all bolts apart from the last one and the anchor (ran out of time). All original bolts were very rusty upside down expansions in a roof, and the bolt on the lip was in a terrible biner snapping position. I added a direct start to the route straight up the nice grade 20ish face below the roof. Three extra rings and it now means you don't have to scramble 20m along the sandy ledge system to get to the start. The name of the new direct start is Spinning Anal Blades of c--k Fisting Fury.

widewetandslippery

30/05/2011
1:37:13 PM

Good work.

You must know a man with a very big urethra to fist his c--k.


tmarsh

30/05/2011
1:51:17 PM

Maybe it's someone else doing the fisting. Which is why he is so furious.


Nooj

1/06/2011
10:16:39 AM

how do you expect us to talk about the route in a convo without being looked at strangely?


ajfclark

1/06/2011
10:32:42 AM

Or getting fined: http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2011/05/31/3231331.htm


BundyBear

1/06/2011
11:14:06 AM

Rick rebolted: Sonic Hedgehog (24), Depleted Gonads (18), Girls in the Hood (24) - all rings now.

Bundy rebolted: Wolfgang Donut (26) - all rings


BundyBear

1/06/2011
11:18:33 AM

I think Hawkman rebolted Samurai Pizza Catz (18) and Planet MossVale (18) with new U bolts

Winston Smith

1/06/2011
1:47:58 PM

On 30/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>I'll start this topic as some sort of record of what has been fixed in
>the Nowra region.
>
>On saturday I rebolted most of Squeeze the Trigger (25) on the far left
>end of of Planet c--k. I replaced all bolts apart from the last one and
>the anchor (ran out of time). All original bolts were very rusty upside
>down expansions in a roof, and the bolt on the lip was in a terrible biner
>snapping position. I added a direct start to the route straight up the
>nice grade 20ish face below the roof. Three extra rings and it now means
>you don't have to scramble 20m along the sandy ledge system to get to the
>start. The name of the new direct start is Spinning Anal Blades of c--k
>Fisting Fury.

Faaark that's funny. I almost choked on my lunch.

Bravo Neil.


nmonteith

21/06/2012
8:54:35 AM

We Do Okay (24) on the Pocketed Wall at Thomos. The anchor seemed to have been removed but not replaced, was originally positioned 2m below the roof. So I sunk a new bolt where the anchor was and extended the route all the way up to the roof adding a couple of very pumpy moves and a new anchor. Also added second bolt to single bolt lower off on Lick the Pig.

Spank the Donkey (24) on Vine Wall, Thomos. A great route marred by stupid bolting. I added two new bolts to eliminate death clips and upside down ledge fall potential. There is now a new third bolt, so you don't have to clip a 2m sling to the anchor sof the route to the right when mantling the shelf. And another bolt above that so you don't have to hand traverse with heel hooks to clip the bolt off the ledge. Great route - get on it! Bonus easier finish added as well on the right side of the arête leaving original route at bolt 6 - grade 22.

cogsy

21/06/2012
9:26:47 AM

Well.. a few days ago I was belaying a friend who had a fall while clipping the 3rd bolt of Lloyd of the Rings at Bowens. She tapped the ground with her feet after glancing my shoulder on the way down (from 8 metres up).
To be sure I should have been more attentive belaying, but it made me realize how bad falls can be from low down on climbs.

It got me thinking about a rebolt I did a few years ago at Nowra, namely Butts of Beef...I just replaced the old bolts, without any additions. The third bolt is quite high, and I think a fall just before clipping would probably mean a deckout. I wonder what people think about sticking an extra bolt there before somebody breaks their legs (if it hasn't happened allready).

davepalethorpe

21/06/2012
10:17:48 AM

On 21/06/2012 cogsy wrote:

>It got me thinking about a rebolt I did a few years ago at Nowra, namely
>Butts of Beef...I just replaced the old bolts, without any additions.
>The third bolt is quite high, and I think a fall just before clipping would
>probably mean a deckout. I wonder what people think about sticking an extra
>bolt there before somebody breaks their legs (if it hasn't happened allready).

I agree. Had a look at that route on the weekend, and I didn't get on it due to the ground fall potential from the third bolt.

21/06/2012
10:21:02 AM

Chris...

Personally i think this runout gives the route character. You really have to tune in during that section. I caught matt file pinging just before that clip and he was fine. If anyone remembers the man mountain that matt was..... this was probably a worst case scenario!!


Hawkman

21/06/2012
10:29:59 AM

That would have been an epic catch KP. I do agree that the run out is spicey and the clipping stance is off a jug? dont think it needs an extra bolt


nmonteith

21/06/2012
10:39:36 AM

Doesn't everyone just stick-clip their way up Nowra routes anyway?


Sonic

21/06/2012
12:48:58 PM

If you can do the low crux, that run out is fine. If anyone adds a bolt to butts of beef I can gold-plate guarantee it will be chopped.


BundyBear

21/06/2012
12:59:46 PM

On 21/06/2012 cogsy wrote:
>Well.. a few days ago I was belaying a friend who had a fall while clipping
>the 3rd bolt of Lloyd of the Rings at Bowens. She tapped the ground with
>her feet after glancing my shoulder on the way down (from 8 metres up).
>
>To be sure I should have been more attentive belaying, but it made me
>realize how bad falls can be from low down on climbs.
>
>It got me thinking about a rebolt I did a few years ago at Nowra, namely
>Butts of Beef...I just replaced the old bolts, without any additions.
>The third bolt is quite high, and I think a fall just before clipping would
>probably mean a deckout. I wonder what people think about sticking an extra
>bolt there before somebody breaks their legs (if it hasn't happened allready).

An extra bolt between 1st and 2nd was added to Freak Magnet. The 2nd clip was death !


benjenga

21/06/2012
12:59:48 PM

Well in the same nowra theme I am planning to rebolt vague flake this Saturday and do a little bit other tidying up. I was planning to do a bit of a bolt shuffle but this may mean adding an extra bolt before the anchours. My question is, it has been climbed fine for many years and now there is all this retro bolting going on, and grades being added to old climbs.
Is everyone getting a bit soft or are we just making life a bit safer??


BundyBear

21/06/2012
1:00:51 PM

On 21/06/2012 benjenga wrote:

>Is everyone getting a bit soft or are we just making life a bit safer??

Probably Both !


nmonteith

21/06/2012
1:02:59 PM

On 21/06/2012 benjenga wrote:
>Well in the same nowra theme I am planning to rebolt vague flake this Saturday
>and do a little bit other tidying up. I was planning to do a bit of a bolt
>shuffle but this may mean adding an extra bolt before the anchours. My
>question is, it has been climbed fine for many years and now there is all
>this retro bolting going on, and grades being added to old climbs.
>Is everyone getting a bit soft or are we just making life a bit safer??

Vague Flake certainly needs a total rethink for bolt positions. Please add more and in better positions!

No one is seriously talking about chopping retro bolts at Nowra are they? If you're into that sort of thing then your first stop should be de-bolting all the nice trad crack routes that got gridded in the last few years.


nmonteith

21/06/2012
1:21:12 PM

I also noticed the 2010 new route called "Hold On" that is just right of Hang On in the descent gully appears to have two temp screw bolts instead of real bolts for the middle two bolts. Dodgy! These should be replaced quick smart.

There are 78 messages in this topic.