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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
Which Mountain Boots?
Dscrunch
23/10/2008
3:09:13 PM
I'm off to NZ this summer to do a mountaineering course and need some boots. I'm yet to try anything on but will try to get something that I can use on technical mixed terrain if I find I have the constitution for it. Would love to hear what y'all use, like and don't like.
What about warmth vs weight?

Robb
23/10/2008
3:55:16 PM
la sportiva trango extreme evos are awesome dextrous walk and climb great.
scarpa alphas or omegas are warmer and bit heavier. also awesome. slightly more support for extended frontpointing sessions.
both more than suitable for NZ for summer mountainering. omegas god for winter stuff too (warmer)


jackb
23/10/2008
4:08:36 PM
My opinion:
if your just doing the course then u can take anything as you will fly in and then the guide will probably try to convince you to fly out as well.

If your hanging round then you will probably be doing lots of walking so buy leathers and something not too warm like la sportiva makalu's which still take automatic crampons. you will see heaps of people in them over there.

i dont like plastics (but other people do) because they are so painful to walk in and hard to scramble in.

My nepal extremes are too hot in summer and i sweat heaps in them.
GoUp!
23/10/2008
4:12:58 PM
Bit of a tuff topic this one but my two cents worth includes:
If your doing a course are you sure your going to go launching on technical mixed terrain this season? Plenty of examples exist of Aussies getting the chop by not understanding how to survive in the hills and by being too ambitous with limited experience. Doesn't NZ technical stuff start kicking in around Gr 4 - thats starting to get pretty exciting in the hills! Plus heaps of the rock over there aint that flash - there are some modern alpine rock routes but in my opinion you'd be better off doing them in rock boots. I know of some exceptions but most don't seem to have the experience, balls, committment, stupidity etc for that caper for at least a few seasons - I may be a soft nancy though.......but I'm still alive too!
Anyway, regardless.............
Boots with a camber are great for long approaches.
Double boots (eg plastics) have there upside as you can dry the inners (well, at least keep them from freezing) in a sleeping bag (guys have lost bits of toes etc when stuck in storms even in summer). They can feel clunky though esp of rock. But can be a lot cheaper too. Also can feel a bit warmer and more protective whilst wading through snot on return from the objective.
Single boots are also an option and there are some really great looking ones out there like the La Sportive Nepal Extremes. I reckon they would be the bizz if you were doing 1 to 2 day trips from a comfortable base like in the Euro alps etc where you have shorter approaches, better rock, and less chance of being stuck out for a few nights in a row. Comfortable and probably great for walking distances in on slopes. Perhaps not as warm and harder to dry? Maybe i'm too oldskool but I do have an attachment to my toes.
Whatever you do, I reckon get a quality footbed to make them more comfortable and do some preparatory walks and bouldering in them - getting used to how they go whilst in the hills can be a recipe for disaster. Consider sizing them generously I know my foot seems to expand a bit after hours of plodding with a heavy pack.

Failing all of the above - I'm sure the course provider rents some out - nothing like trying before you buy.
james
23/10/2008
5:11:38 PM
the only warm boots are the ones that fit you properly. you can have the biggest stupidest boots or the smallesy sexiest boots, but if you have pressure points or an otherwise poor fit you are in for a world of pain & misery.

my Nepal Tops work great in NZ summer & winter in Nepal & Canada, on long trips & short.
dmnz
23/10/2008
6:43:17 PM
look you're going to get different opinions depending on personal prefs such as fit/what people climb/when/where/what

fit is also very important so try different brands and models

if you're just doing a course i'd recommend renting because boots aren't cheap. try some and talk to some of the guides over there

kezza
23/10/2008
10:41:27 PM
I had my first taste of the mountains in NZ last summer. I had La Sportiva Makalu's. As jack said they're fine with automatic crampons.
I found them great to walk in, never got cold (never in a storm though mind you). And they're a reasonable price.
But try many and only stop when your 100% happy
I think plastics will be a waste of your money.
GoUp!
24/10/2008
8:21:33 AM
Andy Kirkpatrick has a very interesting web site relating to gear and surviving in the hills - a lot of his advice is applicable for ultra extreme routes but overkill is often a nice thing.
Anyway, his suggestions regarding boots is here
http://www.psychovertical.com/?gettingtherightboots

PS if your in Mt Cook on a wet day and looking for a way to kill a few hours its well worth asking to have a look at the accident book at the NP office. Morbid - perhaps - but learning from others bad experiences may give you the edge when the guide lets you off the leash.
Have a fun trip and try to stay safe. Remember - you're playing for fun but the mountain is playing for keeps.
Sally
24/10/2008
9:08:57 AM
It is all personal.
If you rent boots e mail the company to check out the size range. No one had them small enough for
me.
If you buy them. Try them on with The merino socks you will wear. Tight boots+ freezing toes and
frost nip.

No plastics available small.
I am little and bought Nepal extremes but found them heavy and stiff, really hard to walk in, but Most
people love them. i use what is almost a tramping boot( similar to makalus) and it works for me even
on technical ice.

Need the sole stiff to secure your crampon and keep front pointing good. But comfy to walk in. There
will be lots of walking in NZ


Epic Steve
24/10/2008
11:00:37 AM
Duct tape is the key to happy feet in new boots, plastic or leather...copious amounts of this on the heel and you'll never get a blister from rubbing or lifting boots...I swear by the stuff! Lasts for a week without peeling off, can get wet and has a hundred and one other uses in the hills...

Whatever you buy, walk them in heaps...if I was going over this summer, I'd already have my boots sorted out as they are your most important purchase. Chances are that the guides will talk you and the rest of your group into choppering out, and all they need is one client with whopping blisters on their heels, to make that con job easier...cos they don't pay...you do!!!

Have an awesome trip and do us Aussies proud and don't fall off anything...please!!!

Dikko
25/10/2008
12:09:36 PM
I totally agree with Epic Steve and third the notion that the guide will almost certainly convince you to chopper out.

If you plan on future trips that require extended walk-ins I'd lash out and buy the leather La Sportivas. Plastics are awfully annoying to walk in on ground not covered by snow.

Epic Steve
25/10/2008
6:23:07 PM
I have an old pair of La Sportiva Lhotse GTX boots and they are SOOOO COOOOMFY!!! They have done Aspiring a few times by both the Therma Glacier Route (snow) and the North West Ridge (rock and scree) as well as Mt Cook via Zurbriggen's Ridge and the Linda Glacier...just need to make sure the crampons are a snug fit and if the boots are older, attach a small strap under the middle of the crampon and over the middle of the boot as an added safety backup in case the front wire bale pops off (with semi articulated Cherlet Moser Blackice crampons)...if doing anything steeper like Mt Tasman then go the plastics as you'll need the stiffness for confident and less fatiguing front pointing on steeper ice...whatever you wear...take the old Teva Terra Fi sandals for the walk out (once the glacial moraine ends!!!) and in the huts!!!

Capt_mulch
25/10/2008
7:36:20 PM
OK all - Mountain Designs DFO (direct factory outlet) at Fyshwick has at least half a dozen pairs of Raichle Gore Tex mountaineering boots on their specials table for between $150 and $200. They are great boots and a couple of pairs have the built-in zip up snow covery thingies on the external part of the boot. Get em while they're hot!! I think they are mostly between size 9is to 11ish. If you are in Canberra and want some damn good mountaineering boots, check these ones out first.

jackb
26/10/2008
10:29:46 AM
go to some shops and see whats available and try some on. no point thinking about certain boots if you cant get your hands on them.

kezza
26/10/2008
6:59:10 PM
very valid point jack, (side note: you should go to see Toby, your snow stake and biner is now currently residing in halls gap.)
I tried on a few boots in melb, spent hours and hours trying boots on to find out that nowhere had my size! At this time of year all stores are selling stock cheap, so when my search hit the interweb, there weren't any boots in my size left anywhere.
Ebay came to the rescue, boots arrived JUST in time to wear them in a little bit 2 weeks before flying over.

Begin your search early.

Paulie
26/10/2008
8:58:29 PM
On 24/10/2008 Sally wrote:
>It is all personal.

Sally's hit the nail on the head there.

Just like all other footwear it's different boots for different feet, so go try on as many as you can, which is hard in Australia coz not too many shops have a good range of Alpine boots!

E.G., My Salomon Pro Ices fit me perfectly as do Scarpa's Freney XTs and the placcy Omegas or whatever they're called these days (I swear they were called Denalis just a few years ago?) and the Koflach Degrees. My wife finds her La Sportiva Makalus are great for alpine scrambling, glacier use and low grade ice/mixed routes but suck in moderately cold conditions (she just about got frost bite in Norway at -20c), the men's versions are too thin for me but the Nepal Pros fit me like a dream...

Modern insulated leathers are the way to go IMHO, but if you stick to recognised brands you'll find something in either leather or placcy that fits well.

Robb
26/10/2008
11:16:50 PM
On 26/10/2008 Paulie wrote:

>E.G., My Salomon Pro Ices fit me perfectly as do Scarpa's Freney XTs and
>the placcy Omegas or whatever they're called these days (I swear they were
>called Denalis just a few years ago?) and the Koflach Degrees.

the scarpa omegas are the upgraded alpha. the denalis are the AT ski boot model

Paulie
28/10/2008
4:12:08 PM
On 26/10/2008 beefy wrote:
>On 26/10/2008 Paulie wrote:
>the scarpa omegas are the upgraded alpha.

They're the ones! super comfy ;)

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

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