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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Popular Cam Sizes

Wormz
11/07/2004
6:39:46 PM
Hey, I've decided to go 'all out' and fork out for a couple of cams (probably BD camalots). Just wondering what sizes you guys used most often out at Araps?

Thanks.

mousey
12/07/2004
12:10:21 AM
cant speak for araps, but if your getting a range id go .75, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4 in BD sizes, plus a few (4?) micros. although i wouldnt recomend the Bds anyway, go for em if you have a personal thing for em, but if its just a random choce check out WC flexis and DMM 4cus. also those trango flex cams (apart from the biggest size which are a tad unstable) are pretty solid. as i said, if its BD your keen on then go for it, theyre bloody solid but personally i find them too heavy and too expensive...

Mike
12/07/2004
9:58:00 AM
On 11/07/2004 Wormz wrote:
>... a couple of cams (probably BD camalots). ...what sizes...at Araps?

For moderate leads at Araps...of my BD's the cam that gets the most use by far is the green 0.75 followed closely by the red #1 and gold #2. Of my BD micros and smallest aliens, the aliens get used a lot more often. Anything bigger than a BD #3.5 almost never gos up the cliff.

Paulie
13/07/2004
12:45:55 AM
Most used cam sizes (on every rock type) are my 0.5, 0.75, 1 & 2 BD Camalots.
smokey
22/07/2004
11:23:50 AM
I climb in North Queensland and am just getting into trad pro. I reckon your'e on the right track with the BD cams (in my limited experience). I did a fair bit of research on cams (prices, range, weight etc) before I bought and, for me, the BD's were value. Rock also did a cam survey in # 54. Yes they are a little heavy but if you can't stretch to the full set they are the way to go because they have the widest range due to their double axles. Although they are exe, if you get them direct they are more than comparable, as is all their other gear. My # 2 gets a flogging as it takes over where my wires (BD stoppers) finish.
gfdonc
22/07/2004
2:43:49 PM
I have an old rack of Friends (actually have a rack of old friends too, but that's another subject..) and have never looked at these newfangled things like Camalots.

Have 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3.5 (the 3 got lost on the Pharos once) and 4. More recent additions (i.e. the last decade or so) have been a green Alien (don't know what size) and a small size tech Friend (0.5?). Both of these get used a lot, and they're great, but in smaller cracks I would always try to place a small/medium stopper or hex as first preference.
Until recently had a double-up of size 1 Friend.
The 1.5 is very useful. Friend size 1 is also very useful for finger cracks but the expansion range is pretty small. The larger sizes also make themselves very useful but not sure I'd take both 3.5 and 4 unless I knew I would need them (e.g. a hand crack).

It's conceivable I could spend more money on cams some day in which case I might replace the #3 or go for something like a tech (flexible) 1.25 (which has better expansion ratio than the size 1).
I'm inclined to stick with Friends because they're familiar rather than as a result of a genuine assessment across the brands.
- Steve


maxots
22/07/2004
4:10:50 PM
i went for cams and aliens but as i have only one cam yet, i might change my mind and go for forged freinds and then aliens in the small sizes

shmalec
22/07/2004
9:58:08 PM
I went 1.0 and 2.0 camalots as my first because they had a big range and I couldn't afford a full set. subsequenly I decided that I liked the smaller friends and metulious cams so now have a mix.
So I guess the message is - eventually you will get the full set and you will have them for years. so buy the brand you want knowing that you will eventually get the full set.
the camalots have a big range but once you have placed it, its gone and the next is much bigger/smaller.

mousey
22/07/2004
11:08:48 PM
people seem to justify the BD weight with the extra camming range a lot, but no matter how good the camming range is, if you cant carry enough pieces up the line you have to run it out....why not get good at placing gear that is lighter and has a smaller camming range (ie. you get it right first time) and be able to carry more pieces up with you...

Clancy
22/07/2004
11:20:33 PM
the problem with having more pieces is that you have to buy them first (being a uni student a bit of an issue)...and friends are not that much cheaper. The way i see it is that i rarely lead climbs that need more than the cams i have (BD .5-3 zero 3-6) particularly at araps and if i need more i just borrow them (the advantages of uni clubs) so the extra camming range just gives me that little bit more flexibility...

but like most issues related to gear it really is a bit too personal for anything to be resolved right ;)

though returning to the topic my favourite cam sizes are BD .75 and 1, with no 2 close behind

adski
23/07/2004
2:01:03 AM
On 22/07/2004 mighty mouse wrote:
>people seem to justify the BD weight with the extra camming range a lot,
>but no matter how good the camming range is, if you cant carry enough pieces
>up the line you have to run it out....why not get good at placing gear
>that is lighter and has a smaller camming range (ie. you get it right first
>time) and be able to carry more pieces up with you...

MM, you are assuming that running it out is a bad thing? :-)

I find it quite relaxing not stopping and placing gear every 2m, and getting into a rhythm of actual climbing as opposed to clipping.

mousey
23/07/2004
10:03:31 AM
fair call, but id rather have the option....

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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