Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Set of 11 "Wallnuts" (1 to 11) N/B NEW Anodized colours!!! New "lighter" version. Steve's favourite wired Nuts.  $169.00
15% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Twisting a Sling
iceman
1/02/2008
1:03:23 PM
I was having trouble equalising an anchor the other day. I didn't have a cordolette with me and was just using slings. One of the slings required shortening a bit and tying an overhand not in the sling was shortening it too much, so I just put a few twists in the sling so it was equallised just right. I don't think the sling could have un-twisted itself.

Is this an OK thing to do? Would the twisting weaken the sling, as a knot does?

harold
1/02/2008
1:17:11 PM
or just wrap a couple times round the biner. dont think there would be any loss in strength

nmonteith
1/02/2008
1:21:07 PM
there will always be some loss in strength - but it would be well within the margins of safety.

cruze
1/02/2008
1:56:45 PM
When shortening slings I find:

water knot < overhand < figure eight

dougal
1/02/2008
5:07:47 PM
sounds like a good simple solution to the problem.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/02/2008
5:45:51 PM
On 1/02/2008 iceman wrote:
>I just put a few twists in the sling so it was equallised
>just right. I don't think the sling could have un-twisted itself.

Another alternative to knots mentioned above is a clove hitch.

Yet other alternatives are;
* changing the krab to a smaller one?
* repositioning the pro?
* incorporating a 'sliding-X' equalising component with a longer sling!


>Is this an OK thing to do? Would the twisting weaken the sling, as a knot
>does?

harold & nm reply/s are on the money imo.

If the twisted sling was attached to less than good pro then under load it may have a detrimental effect on the placement (?).
iceman
2/02/2008
9:58:28 AM
The twisted sling was connected to a bomber no.6 hex, which was also my 4th piece of gear for the anchor. I didn't have any concerns with the safety of the setup.

cheers

Macciza
2/02/2008
10:42:11 AM
It sounds to me like the piece was unnecessary if the other 3 pieces were also bomber - if they weren't
and this was your best piece then I'd adjust the others to suit it being set properly instead.

I also believe there would be issues as you have not really shortened the sling and it's natural
tendency will be to untwist to full length - how was this prevented from happening?

Basically you are storing energy in the sling system as you twist/shorten it which will be part of the
load. If the length were kept constant (thru load) continued twisting would eventually snap the sling.
Loading an extremely twisted rope can do a lot of damage to the rope - I suspect slings are the same.

Overall I think this idea suffers from some overlooked physics issues and incorrect assumptions and
would not be a good solution for 'equalising' two poor placements so I would not recommend it,

Cheers
patto
2/02/2008
11:57:20 AM
Why not use the climbing rope? It is fairly important for a trad leader to know how properly use the climbing rope for an anchor. I carry a cordellete on most climbs but most of the time I use the climbing rope.

Twisting a sling to shorten it is not a good idea. When it is loaded the sling will untwist. This may torque anchors and cause additional wear on the sling. While I doubt it will be problematic it is not good practice.

Capt_mulch
2/02/2008
1:31:57 PM
> Overall I think this idea suffers from some overlooked physics issues and incorrect assumptions and
> would not be a good solution for 'equalising' two poor placements so I would not recommend it

Ice, man, you are dangerous

I'll be your wingman anytime :-)

(BTW, is that really Tom Cruise bouldering at Coolemon Ridge in the ACT Granite guide???
grangrump
4/02/2008
10:51:03 AM
On 2/02/2008 Capt_mulch wrote:
>(BTW, is that really Tom Cruise bouldering at Coolemon Ridge inthe ACT Granite guide???

Well I'm glad someone thought that there was a resemblance.

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints