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book on training / climbing technique

manuinthewoods

6-Sep-2006
9:34:00 AM

I'm looking for a book to improve my climbing technique (at the moment, I climb early 20's). People suggested "training for climbing" by Eric J Hörst and "Performance Rock Climbing" by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann.

Is there anything else I should consider?
Has anyone read: "The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance" by Dan M. Hague and Douglas Hunter
or "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers" by Arno Ilgner?

I'm also looking for something on trad climbing (placing gear, making anchors etc.) I think I've got most of the basics, but I'd like to make sure there's no gaps in the knowledge I've acquired through others.

Thanks!

nmonteith

6-Sep-2006
10:15:17 AM

On 6/09/2006 manuinthewoods wrote:
>or "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers" by Arno Ilgner?

I found that book pretty 'new age' american rubbish. Its got some good things to say in parts - but it was
hard going sorting through all the rubbish.

tnd

6-Sep-2006
11:00:05 AM

On 6/09/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>On 6/09/2006 manuinthewoods wrote:
>>or "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers" by Arno Ilgner?
>
>I found that book pretty 'new age' american rubbish. Its got some good
>things to say in parts - but it was
>hard going sorting through all the rubbish.

The cringeworthy title says it all. "Rock Warrior" - puhlease!

uwhp510

6-Sep-2006
11:02:56 AM

from what I've heard*, the warriors way is some kind of new age "man" cult, which involves lots of naked yelling and chest beating and other kinds of borderline homo-erotic, woman subjagation.

*hearsay disclaimer

billk

6-Sep-2006
11:20:30 AM

On 6/09/2006 tnd wrote:
>On 6/09/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>>On 6/09/2006 manuinthewoods wrote:
>>>or "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers" by Arno Ilgner?
>>
>>I found that book pretty 'new age' american rubbish. Its got some good
>>things to say in parts - but it was
>>hard going sorting through all the rubbish.
>
>The cringeworthy title says it all. "Rock Warrior" - puhlease!

Word dudes.

There is only one American training book worth reading and I've forgotten the name of it! Something like: "The I hate to train guide to climbing training."

Those high performance training guides are a recipe for some nasty injuries if you're a beginner.

The John Long/ Craig Luebben books are good for some guidance on gear placement etc but it's not really stuff you can learn much about from books.

B.A. Baracus

6-Sep-2006
11:42:39 AM

An old book on climbing worth hunting for is "How to become a master climber in seven easy steps" by Pat Ament. Maybe not as wanky as the rock warriors book. Historically interesting at any rate. Also check out John Gill's website on bouldering and climbing. Google it. Cool stuff like rope climbing and one hand front-levers.

nuts.

dalai

6-Sep-2006
12:23:14 PM

I agree with Performance rock climbing as being THE book on training to read. Based on Udo's first training book written with Wolfgang Gullich (which was available in German only - I unfortunately didn't buy it whilst in Germany in 1988), it covers all training topics in a logical clear and concise manner.

There a quite a few good sport psychology books - I have read a couple. But as it's been a while can't remember the titles. Will post these when I check the bookcase at home...

tnd

6-Sep-2006
2:48:31 PM

On 6/09/2006 uwhp510 wrote:
>...chest beating...homo-erotic...woman subjagation.

Bloody trad climbers.

rod

6-Sep-2006
4:13:25 PM

Technique: Sport Climbing by John Long, go bouldering with people who are less powerful but climbing higher grades.

Training: Horst's weighted training (HIT) was the main thing that separated it from others, you can find a free article on HIT training at climbing.com. I found a book called One Move Too Many by Thomas Hochholzer, Volker Schoeffli and Sam Lighter Junior of more use. Couple that with Niel Gresham's series on Planet Mountain.

Rock Warriors Way: save yourself the agony and just read the summary of the 7 steps on their website.

Trad: apparently Europe is grid-bolted so what the f--- would I care.

manuinthewoods

7-Sep-2006
9:18:22 PM

thanks! i'll stay away from the warrior, use some internet ressources and maybe go for the Horst book...

dalai

8-Sep-2006
8:59:51 AM

Book on sport psychology I found a worthwhile read was The New Toughness Training For Sports by James E Leohr.

Psychology plays a large part in climbing performance. Unfortunately climbers primarily focus on the physical at the expense of the psychological...

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